Do-it-yourself brick barbecue oven: drawings and order. DIY summer kitchen

People have different ideas about the ideal vacation. Some people laze around all weekend, while some people associate their vacation with barbecue, cooking fish on charcoal, etc. A barbecue made of brick with your own hands will be a godsend for a good rest.
The design of a barbecue oven is similar to a regular oven, the only difference is that it does not accumulate heat and its only functionality is cooking.
A person with minimal experience in construction can build a barbecue oven. This article contains detailed instructions with drawings so that you can do it yourself.

Foundation construction.
To build a foundation (monolithic slab), you must have: concrete and reinforcement/reinforcement mesh. The strength of concrete must be at least grade 200. To prepare it, you must follow the following proportions: cement M 400 1 part, sand 2 parts, gravel 4 parts.
The clay content in sand should not exceed 10%, and the amount of impurities in crushed stone 2%., as they reduce the strength of concrete.
Class AIII reinforcement is used to reinforce the slab (foundation) under the furnace. The reinforcement mesh is made from it. The size of the foundation must be larger than the size of the furnace, at least 100 mm on all sides.
Masonry Tool Set: probe (for compacting concrete); tamper (narrow), protected by metal; tamper (round) with two handles; rammer (square), covered with metal underneath; smoother (for leveling concrete); scraper (to remove laitance); grater; board (for smoothing concrete); trowel; shovel straight cutting part; shovel with pointed lower part; shovel for mortar. Laying concrete mixture
It is clear that the strength and durability of the structure depends on the quality of the foundation. The soil on which the stove will be installed plays an important role in this. If the soil is dense, there are no problems, if the soils are clayey, swelling, subsiding, water-saturated, peat bogs, etc., they require a special approach to them, for which it is necessary to carry out measures to strengthen them.
This is important to remember and implement if necessary. We lay out the layout for the future foundation, break up the pegs, check the diagonal alignment for correctness, and pull the string over the pegs. We decided on the size, it is 1600x1200 mm. The stove is installed outdoors, which means the soil will go through cycles of freezing and thawing. To prevent unpleasant incidents, we will fill the foundation with sand. Its depth depends on the type of soil, in some cases it can reach up to 1000 mm.
We dig a hole and proceed to construct a sandy base, it must be done in layers (200 mm), compacted, poured, the next layer compacted for reliability can be spilled with water.
Some people lay geotextiles that allow water to pass through, but the sand will not be washed away.
Then we lay two layers of roofing felt waterproofing on the sand cushion.
Next, we proceed to constructing the formwork. The boards for it must be at least 20 mm thick. We install pegs for fastening the formwork board every 500 mm and secure them with supports. Then we clean the wooden formwork structure and moisten it with water.
We install reinforcing mesh into the formwork. Using vertical rods, they are used to make a three-dimensional frame. It is necessary to calculate so that the reinforcement frame has a protective layer of concrete of at least 200 mm. Since the volumes are not large, we lay the concrete at one time, this allows us to have the same hardening time for the concrete mixture. When laying concrete, be sure to tamp it (to remove air from the mixture and compact it).
For normal hardening of concrete, it is necessary to maintain a moisture regime, for which we cover the foundation with damp burlap, which we periodically moisten. After three hours, you can pour wet sawdust or sand onto the surface of the structure and also wet it periodically. This should continue for 7-14 days. During this period, the concrete should gain up to 70% strength.
It must be remembered that if the temperature is below 5 degrees, freshly laid concrete must be insulated.
The formwork can be dismantled after 10 days, but you need to watch the air temperature. Whether or not the formwork can be dismantled is determined by the hardness of the corners and the surface of the foundation itself. If the foundation has gained the necessary strength, you can begin bricklaying the furnace.

Gudkov barbecue oven.

You need to have the following materials: fireclay and ordinary clay bricks.
The furnace body is mounted from refractory or ceramic bricks; it must be solid; ordinary clay bricks must be well fired. Hollow and cracked bricks are completely unsuitable for masonry.
To lay our stove you need 465 bricks.

Appliances that need to be installed: single-burner hob 420x500 mm; grill grill 420x500 mm; metal sheet 500x600 mm; cleaning door 140x140 mm; blower door 270x140 mm; combustion door 250x270 mm; grate 300x200 mm; steel corner 32x32x4 mm, length 500 mm 4 pieces, 600 mm 6 pieces; steel wire 2 mm 10 m; asbestos cord 5 mm 10 m. For masonry clay-sand mortar
For furnace work, red clay and sifted sand are used.

Composition of the solution (clay, sand):
oily 1:2.5;
average 1:1.5;
skinny 1:1.

We remember. Before starting to prepare the solution, soak the clay for at least a day, after which, stirring, add sand in small portions. You can buy ready-made mixtures on the market. They can withstand high temperatures and will also reduce the time for preparing the solution.
Tools
For laying a stove, the same tools are used as for simple brickwork. Garden combi stove body
When starting masonry work, you need to take care of the covering over the masonry site.
Advice. Before starting masonry, try laying the stove body dry without mortar.
We know and remember. It is prohibited to place the chipped side of the brick inside the chimney and firebox. Before laying, clay bricks are immersed in water for 1-2 minutes, fire-resistant bricks are simply rinsed. The seams must be at least 5 mm, for fireproof 3 mm.
Strictly observe the horizontal surface of each laid row (there should always be a building level at hand). It is equally important to maintain the verticality of the corners. The dressing is carried out on a brick floor.
All devices listed above are installed simultaneously with the masonry. When installing metal elements, it is important to remember that brick and metal have different amounts of linear expansion, so install metal devices with a gap of 3-5 mm and fill them with asbestos cord.

Orders

The arch above the hob must be installed on steel corners, as well as the grill grate and cast iron stove. The size of the chimney channel can be 270x140 mm, 270x270 mm, and also 400x140 mm. In order to avoid the accumulation of soot in the chimney, its inner surface must be plastered.

According to fire safety rules, a barbecue oven must be installed no closer than 7 meters from buildings.
Exterior decoration depends on the taste of the owner: plastering, jointing, tiling.
You need to dry the oven slowly and very carefully. Add a small amount of fuel and heat it for 5-8 days.
Now you can celebrate by cooking delicious food over a fire that will energize vacationers with the energy of nature.

Since ancient times, brick ovens have been famous for their qualities: fire resistance, resistance to temperature changes, anti-corrosion, and durability.

Types of brick kilns

In every type of brick kiln has its own characteristics in terms of construction and functionality.

Swede

Its features are:

compactness;
the presence of shelves for heating food;
quick heating of the barbecue area.

The laying and ordering of the Swede implies 32-34 rows. Typically used red fireclay brick.

The first row is laid with special care, since the entire structure depends on its evenness and quality.

Beginning from the second row, fireplace grate holders are installed by welding, then the masonry is carried out taking into account the installation:

blower;
ovens;
chimney;
fireplace inserts;
grate;
firebox doors;
slabs;
fireplace shelves;
doors to the cleaning channel;
fireplace chimney valves.

You can veneer the device tiles or ceramic tiles 2 mm wide.

Barbecue stove E. Gudkova

It has two functions - a barbecue grill and a hob with a burner.

Such a stove is laid out from solid refractory bricks. In general, the device costs approximately 500 pieces. When laying take into account:

space for a stove;
installation of gratings;
combustion and blower doors.

All stove appliances are installed simultaneously with masonry work.

Attention! When heated, metal and brick expand in different volumes, so there must be space between them when laying gap up to 5 mm, which can then be filled with asbestos cord.

Dutch

The Dutch oven is different:

small in size;
long-term preservation of heat and warmth.

Its long chimneys are built like this so that heat circulates throughout the oven for a long time. This design burns coal, wood and does not accept quickly combustible materials: straw, birch bark, sawdust, etc.

This type of device unpretentious to the quality of the brick. Fire-resistant, ceramic or fireclay bricks will only be needed for the construction of the firebox.

The rest of the frame of the structure can be made of lower quality building materials.

According to the type of Dutch masonry, there are:

rectangular;
round;
oval;
square.

The masonry can be staggered.

Russian

The design provides not only a stove, but also a place to sleep, so the device is different relatively large in size: 2x3 meters. Moreover, his The functions are much wider:

cooking;
heating;
barbecue area;
place for a saucepan or cauldron, and so on.

In order for the stove to be multifunctional, the masonry must be done correctly. She carried out taking into account overlaps, which later serve as a place to store fuel or a shelf for dishes - depending on the design of the stove.

The barbecue arrangement involves a common brick chimney in the center of the building, installation of metal plugs, doors and shelves. The design may include a recess for a pan or cauldron.

Making a brick barbecue oven with your own hands

Whatever type of oven you choose, The construction principle is approximately the same:

barbecue project;
finding a level place for installation;
foundation installation;
preparation of instruments;
frame manufacturing.

Foundation

The foundation depends on the design of the barbecue oven. If the oven is simple and small in volume, then it is enough to choose a flat surface, concrete it and start laying out the structure on it. If your project requires a real, durable foundation, then it is important to do the following:

dig a hole 20 cm deep(the area of the pit must be larger than the area of the base of the planned furnace);
cover it with sand and gravel;
compact;
backfilling possible 2 layers gravel and sand;
pour in the prepared solution;
While the solution is setting, moisten the surface with water to avoid its deformation.

If necessary, a double layer of foundation is made.

For work, prepare tools, starting with a pick and ending with equipment for controlling the horizontal and vertical levels of the masonry. You should purchase or manufacture the components of the future design:

staples;
gratings;
corners - external and internal;
valves;
wire, etc.

It all depends on the chosen project and the complexity of the barbecue oven.

Building materials:

brick;
clay;
sand.

Project selection, drawings

The oven can be like very simple (U-shaped), and complex multifunctional design. Its shape can be rectangular, square, oval or even round.

Photo 1. Drawing of a simple oven with a brick barbecue, front, side and top views. The dimensions of the device are indicated.

The project may include a brick chimney and space for a smokehouse, cauldron, barbecue, etc.

Photo 2. Drawing of a brick oven with barbecue. In addition to the compartment for cooking over coals, there is space for a cauldron.

Materials

Depending on the material of manufacture, all bricks are divided into the following types:

ceramic(based on high-quality clay after firing in an oven at a temperature 1000 degrees);
silicate(based on sand processed under high pressure);
hyper-pressed(based on limestone and Portland cement that underwent pressing).

When building a barbecue oven, solid brick is used, which is called stove brick; its second name is fireclay brick. It has:

strength;
immunity to high temperatures;
different colors;
various shapes, for example, wedge-shaped.

Masonry mortar

Clay has the property of transformation into the hardest stone after heat treatment. Therefore, the use of clay in stove masonry as an adhesive element is common among professional stove makers.

Important! A solution of clay and sand is made with individual proportions depending on the fat content of the clay. There are typical solution proportions that assume an average fat content of clay: clay-sand-cement-asbestos - 1:1:2:0.1.

Stages of preparing the solution:

soak the clay in a container;
obtain a homogeneous mass;
sift sand;
add to clay paste solution;
mix with a shovel;
If the solution comes off the shovel well, then it is ready.

You can add a little cement or salt to the solution.

This will increase the strength of the future barbecue oven: 200 g salt, 800 g of cement per bucket of mortar.

Some people use sand-cement mortar for masonry.

The volume of the mortar depends on the number of bricks in the structure itself.

The calculation is made taking into account the use 20 liters of mortar for 50 bricks.

Attention! The furnace core is laid using mortar from fireclay and refractory clay in equal parts.

Preparing the site for the oven

Everyone chooses their own place for a barbecue. It must meet a number of criteria:

sufficient area according to the furnace design;
Smooth surface;
sunny side of the site;
location away from fences, trees and flammable wooden buildings.

When choosing, it is advisable to take into account the fact that smoke from the stove can go to neighbors with different wind directions, which can be a stressful time for them.

Arrangement, laying of the device

In accordance with the diagrams and drawings, preparation of the foundation and laying of the barbecue oven begin. A typical project involves 13-17 rows of U-shaped masonry.

Important! Before a thorough arrangement, make a test laying: dry, without solution. Check the correct placement of devices.

The first row is dense, even, solid. After laying it, check with levels that the horizontal and vertical directions are correct. The strength of the entire structure depends on this. When laying 2-3 rows leave space for fuel storage and pipeline installation.

Photo 3. Option for arranging a brick stove with a barbecue. The device is also shown in finished form.

On the 5th row install a metal grill on 6 and 8— insert pins or brackets for barbecue grates. Such brackets can be mounted on several levels, which will allow you to move the grates when preparing a barbecue, making the food more fried. From the 12th row and above, up to the 17th, you can install a hob or provide a recess for a cauldron.

Leave when laying place for smoke hole, make a bookmark for the chimney valve.

It is important to constantly monitor the correct vertical and horizontal masonry, to ensure that all bricks are the same, without cracks or deformations. Correctness of corners of a row of brickwork check using a square or cord. If the row is laid out correctly, then the distances between two pairs of opposite corners will be equal.

Build a barbecue oven with a hob according to E. Gudkov’s scheme.

It’s great when at your summer cottage there is a place to relax and, of course, a barbecue or oven, so that you can cook a lot of different meat dishes in the fresh air. What could be better than a family holiday in the country?

So let's take a closer look at how to build this furnace and what will be required for this?

Materials
1. red brick
2. fire brick
3. fittings
4. knitting (steel) wire
5. damper
6. corner
7. oven door
8. grate
9. ash chamber door
10. 2mm steel plate
11. board 30 mm
12. clay
13. sand
14. cement
15. gravel

Tools
1. mallet
2. trowel
3. spatula
4. trowel
5. pickaxe
6. plumb line
7. hacksaw
8. hammer
9. level
10. corner
11. roulette
12. grinder (discs on stone)
13. metal ruler

Furnace construction process and detailed 3D model
And so, it’s not so difficult to put together a simple barbecue oven if you have a little experience in bricklaying, you can also show your imagination when designing the shape of the oven, but of course without deviating from building codes and laws, otherwise the result will not be an oven but a torment)

The barbecue oven with hob presented in the author’s material is a little complicated, but if you carefully understand everything, then it will be quite possible to build such an oven. For general information, the master gives us a couple of diagrams of this stove.

Next, as for any other stove, it is necessary to pour the foundation; a slab with dimensions larger than the base of the stove by at least 5 cm is best suited. The slab should also be reinforced when pouring - this will give greater strength, which is important for a heavy brick stove.

The first step is to choose a place on your site for construction; it should be located no closer than 7 meters from the main walls of the buildings “fire safety measures”. Having chosen a suitable place, it is necessary to clear it of possible debris, stones, and bushes.

Next, you should dig a hole at least 50 cm deep, lay a sand cushion on the bottom, moisten it with water and compact it. Afterwards, the formwork is made and the reinforcement is laid inside the pit and tied together with knitting wire. Prepare a solution of 1:3 and 4-5 parts of gravel.
Here the author indicated a diagram of the foundation slab for the stove.

And now the first stage, digging a hole.

The bottom is covered with sand and compacted well.

The reinforcement is laid and tied together using wire.

The solution is being prepared.

The foundation is being poured.

The author recommends that after pouring the foundation, while it gains strength and hardens for 7-14 days, you need to periodically moisten the surface of the slab, and it is also possible to cover the surface with burlap and moisten it, so the humidity will last longer, or pour a layer of sand on top and wet it in the same way.

Laying the furnace can only begin after the cement has hardened and strengthened, and this will happen in at least 6-7 days at an ambient temperature of +20 C, but if the temperature is lower, then the maturation time will accordingly be longer, up to 14 days.

The first rows of stove masonry are usually laid on cement mortar in order to create a more solid foundation, but only the first! It is quite possible to use cement up to the ash chamber.

Next, the entire oven will be placed exclusively on clay mortar; it is better to use red clay. Clay should be stored in advance and for use, then it must be soaked in a large container, like a trough, for several days. Afterwards the clay is thoroughly mixed and kneaded (with feet). There should be no large lumps in it.

Then the master prepares a clay solution.

Composition of the mixture for clay varieties:
Fat 1: 2.5
Average 1:1.5
Skinny 1:1

And so, the first rows should be laid on cement mortar.

The ash pan door is placed and secured with burnt steel wire.

The niche of the barbecue itself is also formed.

The walls are raised and the door is installed.

Then comes the laying of the fuel chamber itself; when laying it, it is best to use refractory bricks.

When using this brick, the stove will last a very long time.

A cast iron hob is installed.

Repositioned using a metal corner.

A chimney is formed.

A damper is installed.

Do-it-yourself brick barbecue oven: drawings and ordering Meat, fish, vegetables prepared with your own hands in a barbecue oven have an impressive taste and special aroma. It is not difficult to lay out a barbecue oven, following the necessary baking technology. We have prepared detailed instructions for you with drawings and order so that you can fold it yourself. The E. Gudkova barbecue stove combines two functions well with a water design - a barbecue grill and a hob with a burner. The main materials for a monolithic slab are: concrete, reinforcing mesh. To construct the foundation, it is enough to use concrete with compressive strength B15 (M200). You can prepare it by observing the proportion: Cement M400 - 1 part. Crushed stone or gravel, the size of which should be less than 30mm - 4 parts. Sand - 2 parts. Impurities in the sand of clay, organic particles, mica, and dust inclusions should be no more than 10% of its volume. In coarse aggregate (gravel, crushed stone), the amount of impurities that reduce the strength properties of concrete should be less than 2%. Consumption of concrete components by weight per 1 m3: cement - 325 kg; sand - 1300kg; crushed stone - 1300kg; water 205kg. To reinforce the foundation, a mesh of class AIII reinforcement is used. The size of the foundation is taken to be 10 cm larger than the size of the furnace on each edge. If the oven has a size of 1400x1000mm, then the foundation will be 1600x1200mm. Tools** probe (for compacting concrete); tamper (narrow), protected by metal; tamper (round) with two handles; rammer (square), covered with metal underneath; smoother (for leveling concrete); scraper (to remove laitance); grater; board (for smoothing concrete); trowel; shovel - straight cutting part; shovel - pointed lower part; shovel for mortar. A properly selected and constructed foundation is a guarantee of the strength and durability of the entire structure. Here it is very important to know what kind of soil will become the basis for the stove. Sufficiently dense soil can easily support the structure of a barbecue oven. But there are pitfalls here that you need to be aware of. There are soils that can change their volume due to wetting or lowering the temperature. These are swelling clayey, subsiding loess and containing soluble salts, water-saturated (when freezing, ice increases the volume of soil), with particles of biological origin (peat), etc. These soils require special measures to strengthen them. The marking of the future foundation can be done by pulling the twine over the pegs. The size of the pit for the sand cushion is taken according to the size of the foundation slab (160x120cm). Since the barbecue oven will be located outside, the soil will be subject to freezing and thawing in the winter. Depending on the type of soil, the depth of the sand cushion can reach 1000mm. Filling the hole with sand must be done in layers (15cm) with compaction or pouring water to compact it. Before laying the sand, you can lay geotextiles on the ground, which allows water to pass through but prevents the sand from being washed away by groundwater. Waterproofing consisting of 2 layers of roofing felt must be laid on the sand cushion. This will protect the concrete from water in the ground and keep uncured concrete from flowing into the sand. Boards for formwork are used from coniferous and hardwood with a thickness of at least 2 cm and no wider than 15 cm. The posts, to which the formwork boards will later be attached, are driven into the ground every 50 cm, and then reinforced with struts. Before you start laying the concrete mixture, you need to clean the formwork from dirt and moisten it. Next, the reinforcement is installed in the formwork. The reinforcing mesh is tied into a three-dimensional frame using vertical rods, taking into account the distance between them and the size of the protective layer of the working reinforcement - 2 cm. It is advisable to do concreting in one go. This will ensure the same curing time for concrete. Also, we must not forget about tamping the concrete mixture to remove formed air bubbles and compact the concrete. To maintain the moisture regime necessary for normal hardening of concrete, it is covered with moistened burlap, tarpaulin or other similar material. You can, 3 hours after pouring the concrete, pour a layer of wet sawdust or sand onto its surface, which is periodically moistened (5 times a day). This regime is maintained for 7–14 days until the concrete reaches 50–70% of its strength. Important! When the outside air temperature is below +5°C, fresh concrete must be insulated to maintain a uniform setting regime. The formwork can be removed when the concrete has gained at least 50% strength. In days it will depend on the air temperature: +5°C - 12 days; +10°C - 8 days; +15°C - 7 days; +20°C - 6 days. In any case, the indicator for the possibility of removing the formwork will be the hardness of the corners and surface of the structure. It is possible to begin work on the construction of a barbecue oven only after 2 weeks, taking into account the air temperature. Body of the Gudkov barbecue oven Materials: Fireproof brick (fireclay) GOST 390–96. Ordinary clay brick GOST 530–2012. The furnace body is made of either refractory or ceramic brick (necessarily solid). Refractory bricks can withstand temperatures of 1300°C or more. Ordinary clay brick must be well fired. Unburned, hollow, silicate, and cracked bricks are not suitable for stove masonry. The stove will require 465 bricks. Stove appliances: single-burner hob 420x500mm; grill grill 420x500mm; metal sheet 500x600mm; cleaning door 140x140mm; blower door 270x140mm; combustion door 250x270mm; grate 300x200mm; steel corner 32x32x4mm, length 500mm - 4 pieces, 600mm - 6 pieces; steel wire 2mm - 10m; asbestos cord 5mm-10m. For furnace work, mainly plastic, most often red clay and fine sifted sand are used. The required proportion of the solution composition is taken based on the fat content of the clay. Fat content depends on the percentage composition of sand in it: fat - 2–4%; average - 15%; skinny - 30%. Composition of the solution (clay, sand): oily - 1:2.5; average - 1:1.5; skinny - 1:1. Important! Before starting work, the clay is soaked for a day, and then, gradually stirring, sand is added little by little. You can also buy a ready-made mortar mixture for furnace work. Such mixtures can withstand high temperatures and will significantly reduce the time required to prepare the solution. Stove masonry is the same as brick masonry, so basically the tools for it are almost the same. 1- pickaxe; 2- trowels; 3- mallet; 4- jointing; 5- plumb line; 6-level; 7-gon Work on the construction of the furnace body must be carried out only if there is at least a temporary canopy over it. For ease of work, you can first lay out the body dry, selecting bricks. Important! The chipped side of a brick cannot be placed inside a firebox or chimney. Before laying, clay bricks are moistened for 1–2 minutes. omitting the input. Fireclay bricks are only rinsed to remove dust. The seam thickness for clay bricks should be less than 5mm, and for fireclay bricks - 3mm. When performing furnace work, it is necessary to maintain strict horizontality of the surfaces of each row and verticality of the corners. The dressing of the seams should be 1/2 brick. All furnace appliances are installed simultaneously by folding work. Metal and brick have different amounts of linear expansion, so all metal elements of the stove are installed with a gap of 3–5 mm, then this gap is filled with asbestos cord. A steel wire is attached to the oven doors to seal the insert. You can install a cast-iron cooking stove, or you can also install a barbecue grill if desired. When installing a vault above the cooking stove, the brick is installed on steel corners. A barbecue grill or cast iron stove is also placed on the corners. The chimney channel for a garden barbecue stove can be made 270x140mm, 270x270mm, and also 400x140mm. The inner wall of the chimney must be plastered so that it is smooth and does not allow soot to accumulate in uneven areas. For fire safety, the barbecue oven is installed no closer than 7m from the walls of the house. The finishing of such a stove is chosen according to the owner’s taste. This could be undoing joints, plastering or finishing with tiles. Drying the stove is carried out carefully, without rushing. It is heated with a small amount of fuel for 3–8 days. Any outdoor holiday is hardly complete without deliciously cooked food on the fire, which saturates it with the energy of nature. And a home-made oven will embody any recipes of a hospitable host.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: Meat, fish, vegetables, prepared with your own hands in a barbecue oven, have an impressive taste and a special aroma. It is not difficult to lay out a barbecue oven, following the necessary baking technology. We have prepared detailed instructions for you with drawings and order so that you can fold it yourself.

E. Gudkov's barbecue oven well combines two functions in one design - a barbecue grill and a hob with a burner.

Foundation

Materials

The main materials for a monolithic slab are: concrete, reinforcing mesh.

To construct the foundation, it is enough to use concrete with compressive strength B15 (M200). You can prepare it by following the following proportions:

Cement M 400 - 1 part.
Crushed stone or gravel, the size of which should be less than 30 mm - 4 parts.
Sand - 2 parts.

Impurities in the sand of clay, organic particles, mica, and dust inclusions should be no more than 10% of its volume. In coarse aggregate (gravel, crushed stone), the amount of impurities that reduce the strength properties of concrete should be less than 2%.

Consumption of concrete components by weight per 1 m3:

cement - 325 kg;
sand - 1300 kg;
crushed stone - 1300 kg;
water 205 kg.

Armature

To reinforce the foundation, a mesh of class AIII reinforcement is taken

The size of the foundation is taken to be 10 cm larger than the size of the stove on each edge. If the furnace has a size of 1400x1000 mm, then the foundation will be 1600x1200 mm.

Tools

probe (for compacting concrete);
tamper (narrow), protected by metal;
tamper (round) with two handles;
rammer (square), covered with metal underneath;
smoother (for leveling concrete);
scraper (to remove laitance);
grater;
board (for smoothing concrete);
trowel;
shovel - straight cutting part;
shovel - pointed lower part;
shovel for mortar.

Laying concrete mixture

A properly selected and constructed foundation is a guarantee of the strength and durability of the entire structure. Here it is very important to know what kind of soil will become the basis for the stove. Sufficiently dense soil can easily support the structure of a barbecue oven. But there are pitfalls here that you need to be aware of.

There are soils that can change their volume due to wetting or lowering the temperature. These are swelling clay, subsiding loess and containing soluble salts, water-saturated (when ice freezes, the volume of soil increases), with particles of biological origin (peat), etc. These soils require special measures to strengthen them.

The marking of the future foundation can be done by pulling the twine over the pegs. The size of the pit for the sand cushion is taken according to the size of the foundation slab (160x120 cm). Since the barbecue oven will be located outside, the soil will be subject to freezing and thawing in the winter. Depending on the type of soil, the depth of the sand cushion can reach 1000 mm.

Filling the hole with sand must be done in layers (15 cm) with compaction or pouring water to compact it. Before laying the sand, you can lay geotextiles on the ground, which allows water to pass through but prevents the sand from being washed away by groundwater.

Waterproofing consisting of 2 layers of roofing felt must be laid on the sand cushion. This will protect the concrete from water in the ground and keep uncured concrete from flowing into the sand.

Formwork boards are used from coniferous and hardwood with a thickness of at least 2 cm and no wider than 15 cm. The posts, to which the formwork boards will later be attached, are driven into the ground after 50 cm, and then reinforced with struts. Before you start laying the concrete mixture, you need to clean the formwork from dirt and moisten it.

Next, the reinforcement is installed in the formwork. The reinforcing mesh is tied into a three-dimensional frame using vertical rods, taking into account the distance between them and the size of the protective layer of the working reinforcement - 2 cm.

It is advisable to do concreting in one go. This will ensure the same curing time for concrete. Also, we must not forget about tamping the concrete mixture to remove formed air bubbles and compact the concrete.

To maintain the moisture regime necessary for normal hardening of concrete, it is covered with moistened burlap, tarpaulin or other similar material. You can, 3 hours after pouring the concrete, pour a layer of wet sawdust or sand onto its surface, which is periodically moistened (5 times a day). This regime is maintained for 7–14 days until the concrete reaches 50–70% of its strength.

Important! When the outside air temperature is below +5 °C, fresh concrete must be insulated to maintain a uniform setting regime.

The formwork can be removed when the concrete has gained at least 50% strength. In days it will depend on the air temperature:

+5 °C - 12 days;
+10 °C - 8 days;
+15 °C - 7 days;
+20 °C - 6 days.

In any case, the indicator for the possibility of removing the formwork will be the hardness of the corners and surface of the structure. It is possible to begin work on the construction of a barbecue oven only after 2 weeks, taking into account the air temperature.

Gudkov barbecue oven body

Materials

Fireproof brick (fireclay) GOST 390–96.
Ordinary clay brick GOST 530–2012.

The furnace body is made of either refractory or ceramic brick (necessarily solid). Refractory bricks can withstand temperatures of 1300 °C or more. Ordinary clay brick must be well fired. Unburned, hollow, silicate, and cracked bricks are not suitable for stove masonry.

The stove will require 465 bricks.

Furnace appliances:

single-burner hob 420x500 mm;
grill grill 420x500 mm;
metal sheet 500x600 mm;
cleaning door 140x140 mm;
blower door 270x140 mm;
combustion door 250x270 mm;
grate 300x200 mm;
steel corner 32x32x4 mm, length 500 mm - 4 pieces, 600 mm - 6 pieces;
steel wire 2 mm - 10 m;
asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m.

Clay-sand solution

For furnace work, mainly plastic, most often red clay and fine sifted sand are used. The required proportion of the solution composition is taken based on the fat content of the clay. The fat content depends on the percentage composition of sand in it:

oily - 2–4%;
average - 15%;
skinny - 30%.

Composition of the solution (clay, sand):

oily - 1:2.5;
average - 1:1.5;
skinny - 1:1.

Important! Before starting work, the clay is soaked for a day, and then, gradually stirring, sand is added little by little.

You can also buy a ready-made mortar mixture for furnace work. Such mixtures can withstand high temperatures and will significantly reduce the time required to prepare the solution.

Stove maker's tool

Stove masonry is the same as brick masonry, so basically the tools for it are almost the same.

1 - pickaxe; 2 - trowels; 3 - mallet; 4 - jointing; 5 - plumb line; 6 - level; 7 - square

Garden combi stove body

Work on the construction of the furnace body must be carried out only if there is at least a temporary canopy over it. For ease of work, you can first lay out the body dry, selecting bricks.

Important! The chipped side of a brick cannot be placed inside a firebox or chimney.

Before laying, clay bricks are moistened for 1–2 minutes. dropping into the water. Fireclay bricks are only rinsed to remove dust. The seam thickness for clay bricks should be less than 5 mm, and for fireclay bricks - 3 mm.

When performing furnace work, it is necessary to maintain strict horizontality of the surfaces of each row and verticality of the corners. The dressing of the seams should be 1/2 brick.

All stove appliances are installed simultaneously with masonry work. Metal and brick have different amounts of linear expansion, so all metal elements of the stove are installed with a gap of 3–5 mm, then this gap is filled with asbestos cord.

Steel wire is attached to the stove doors to embed it into the masonry.

Orders

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