Autonomous stove in the tent. Even in the forest you can spend the night comfortably! Dry pipe system: do-it-yourself “stove” for a tent

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You may be surprised, but the vigorous Russian winter, in terms of the number and duration of city dwellers' outings, successfully competes with the best days of summer and fishing and mushroom autumn. The beauty of snow-covered landscapes is unique, winter fishing is peculiarly romantic, and after a ski trip you feel especially invigorated and healthy. However, for winter tourists and fishermen, a heater or stove for a tent is vital; they will also come in handy in the summer, if it suddenly gets colder or bad weather catches up. This article is written about how, how and in what cases it is correct and safe to heat the tent.

The most important

Camping cooking and heating appliances are not always compatible in one device. Food on a hike is prepared, as a rule, outside or in the "hallway" of the tent, under an awning. The heating camp stove operates in a cramped room, where, if it is tightly clogged, there may not be enough air just for normal breathing. Cases of burning in tents are not very frequent, but they occur steadily. That's why a heating camping stove should be extremely economical even in places rich in fuel- the less oxygen it takes to burn it, the less likely it is to form carbon monoxide. The choice of the type of fuel is also important: it is best if, with a lack of oxygen, it simply goes out without releasing carbon monoxide (see below).

Another significant point is all connected with the same circumstances: a small volume, large heat losses of the room and a probable lack of oxygen in the air in it, as a result of which the heating of a tent according to heat engineering is very different from the heating of buildings and structures. Critical in this regard are 1-4 local tents: in 2-4 local tents, less than 1 cubic meter may fall per person. m. In 1-seater and large group tents, one inhabitant most often has more than 2 cubic meters. m, but in a 1-person tent, the ratio of the outer surface area to the inner volume is large.

In any case, it is impossible to close hermetically in a tent: in the morning, from their own exhaled carbon dioxide, people will wake up broken, exhausted and little able to continue moving. However, molecular-kinetic (with warm air flows) heating of a small room is inefficient if there are the slightest cracks in it; Simply, the heat is immediately blown out. Therefore, a heater for a tent for 1-4 inhabitants should act mainly with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation, and soft, long-wave radiation; in physical terminology - far infrared (which is closer to millimeter radio waves). Near hard IR (with a spectrum maximum closer in visible light) at low outside temperatures and under conditions of high heat loss in the room will burn the skin, cause a fire, but will not really warm. For large tents for 6-20 people, this requirement is softened: they have a ratio of the heat-losing surface to the volume of the room several times less, and each sleeper emits approx. 60 watts of heat, so heating a large tent can be almost entirely molecular kinetic.

Note as a consequence: a camping bath-tent can be arranged for an hour and a half even at minus 40, but those who want to fall apart in a tent before lights out in shorts and a T-shirt will have to be disappointed - IR heating does not allow this. In general, if you want home comfort in nature, stay at home and watch movies about strong guys surviving in impossible conditions. Or order a non-volatile eco-house in the forest - only 2-3 million USD for a 2-room 26 sq. m residential.

A special case is the heating of a fishing tent in winter. The fact that the angler sits crouched is half the battle. It is also necessary that the holes do not freeze. But then the bottom and / or tent mounts can grab onto the ice so that you can’t pull it off. Here soft IR comes to the rescue again: its flow from the flashlight heater (see below) is directed obliquely down to the holes, and the remnants reflected from the ice allow the fisherman not to freeze.

And a very emergency, emergency case - how to heat a tent in an emergency. For example, the time is golden autumn. It's warm, we go in sneakers, shorts and a short sleeve, otherwise we'll get tired with the load and run out of steam. Suddenly - clouds, the temperature sharply to zero, it began to snow; in the mountains this is possible even in the height of summer. While they took out and pulled on warm, someone had signs of a cold and frostbite. You can’t go further like this, you need to set up camp and be treated or call rescuers. While the tent was set up, the victims became worse and new ones appeared. In such circumstances, of particular importance is the ability to build a heater from improvised materials, the ease and speed of its start-up and the rate of heat release.

Methods and features

Let's like, as they say, grandmothers in advance. Heating a tent in winter or during a sharp cold snap without the danger of burning out in it, a trace is possible. ways, as their availability and launch speed decrease:

• Heat saving.
• Catalytic chemical heaters.
• Using a wigwam, chum or yaranga type tent.
• The use of heat accumulators from improvised means.
• Bonfire and pipe.
• 2-circuit oil heater, see below.

Further, a camp heater can be located in a tent and consume oxygen from the air in it. The heat dissipation of such devices, as a rule, is high, the time for starting and warming up the tent to an acceptable temperature does not exceed 5-10 minutes, so we will sort by increasing the likelihood of burning or poisoning with fuel vapors:

1. A winter tent with a standard stove - if used correctly, should belong to the previous. list.
2. She, with a homemade camping stove.
3. Liquid fuel portable catalytic heater - if there is a lack of oxygen, the catalysis is extinguished, oxygen consumption stops, the fuel tank cools down, fuel evaporation stops.
4. The same, on gas - it works the same, but in inexpensive models, gas continues to flow from the cylinder. To hike in the off-season, you need cylinders with summer and winter gas: summer gas does not stimulate catalysis in winter; dangerous in winter in summer.
5. Homemade alcohol burner - ethyl alcohol goes out with a lack of oxygen, without having time to release any significant amount of carbon monoxide.
6. Candle heater - paraffin candles go out from a lack of oxygen when carbon monoxide has already begun its action. True, if they are not lit again, but breathed on the street, by morning the symptoms of poisoning in a strong, hardy person disappear.
7. - very economical, can be quickly made from improvised materials, but consumes a lot of oxygen. On a hike, a wood chipper can be safely launched in sufficiently ventilated shelters: a wigwam tent, a hut, under a canopy / canopy on a fallen tree, in a grotto / cave.

On a winter hike in remote places, a fire in a tent can be more dangerous than intoxication: If you lose your asylum, you can lose your life. Heaters that do not consume oxygen from the tent, subject to basic precautions, are fireproof. "Oxygen" according to the degree of increase in fire danger, they are distributed in a different way:

1. Alcohol burner;
2. Homemade tent stove;
3. Candles;
4. Regular tent stove;
5. wood chip stove;
6. liquid fuel catalytic;
7. catalytic gas.

As you can see, already the preliminary choice of a heater for a tent comes up against contradictory conditions.

To find the optimum, in addition to your own experience and a thorough study of the sources of adequate information, you also need to take into account the conditions of the campaign:

• 1-2 days at the weekend to the place by car, which remains there until departure;
• Winter fishing;
• Hike with overnight stays solo or in a group of up to 4 people - everyone carries a full luggage for themselves. Including tent, as it is easier to keep a plus and an atmosphere acceptable for breathing in a single or double tent for the night than in a 4-person tent;
• The same, but in a large group - one carries a tent, the other a stove, and their luggage is distributed among the rest;
• Star Trek.

In the first case, the volume and weight of luggage do not matter much, but safety is important, because. children and green beginners will ask for it. The best choice is a catalytic kerosene heater; in extreme cases (the car is frozen, it won’t start) - 1-2 home-made wood chips, a supply of alcohol, an alcohol burner and a kit for a candle heater for general use, see below.

For fishing, a portable gas-powered catalytic heater is most suitable. If we get to the place by car, then it is better to throw another candle heater for hands into the trunk (see below); for extremes - a heat-saving awning, a supply of alcohol and a home-made alcohol burner. The same set, plus a wood chip for each, is suitable for extreme solo and small groups.

Note: instead of an expensive and gas-consuming burner, an experienced winter fisherman can use a tent fishing stove based on wood chips, which can be made at home with their improvised materials in just a few minutes. However, then you need to know exactly the features of your tent, fishing in your favorite places and make a stove, taking them into account. For example, about the stove for the popular Sable fishing tent, see the video below.

Video: homemade tent stove in 6 minutes

A star trip does not mean that the group goes side by side to the bar of a star hotel. In the star, it is also a radial, hike, a base camp is set up, from which 1-2 day routes around the surroundings are made. Equipment for the base camp is delivered to the site either by transport or on foot by the vanguard of the group; He's setting up the base. In any case, the camp duty officer remains at the base, so the requirements for the fire safety of the furnace are reduced. It is even possible to equip a home-made tent with a home-made stove (see below). The person on duty heats it in the same mode in which catalytic heaters are used in a single hike - in a small group (see below), and if necessary and there is enough fuel, it also heats up during the day - there will be enough air in the tent.

Note: since in a large group at least its leader (instructor) is experienced, then for a trip to places with a lack of fuel, instead of a tent stove, you need to take a catalytic kerosene heater. It is much safer than gasoline (kerosene does not flash and flares up for a rather long time, especially at low temperatures), it can be taught to a beginner with the intelligence of a bonobo chimpanzee and control training can be done an hour before going out, and the fuel for a kerosene catalytic heater weighs less and takes up less space. than gas at the same time hike.

How to warm up

Without oxygen consumption

We exclude catalytic chemical heaters from consideration: they are expensive and give little heat. You can heat a sleeping bag or a balloon tent with a heating pad (see at the end). Just in case: a heating pad is such a cake or a thing like a sausage, which is bent to launch until something crunches inside, or pulled by a protruding rope. Then the components inside are mixed and an exothermic chemical reaction begins. The heating pad has cooled down - they throw it away, it is not refillable.

Heat storage

Heat-saving awnings for tents at the time of "canvas-rubber" tourism were not popular and remain so to this day, but in vain. After all, today the ideal material for heat transfer - metallized plastic film - is readily available. PET film is also very durable: you can purposely cut through it with a Mares knife, not just pierce it with a random knot. When folded, the heater takes up almost no space and weighs almost nothing.

The tent heater, firstly, retains the air heated by the tent. Secondly, it reflects back its very soft IR. In summer, you can sleep in a tent under a heating pad on top of a sleeping bag almost everywhere, except for the Far North, in any weather. Just don’t make the tent the same as on the right in the rice: it’s there only from precipitation. The awning must be cut in the shape of a tent with an indent on all sides of approx. 0.5 m and with the same clearance between the lower edge of the awning and the ground. It is better to give more heat transfer in front, approx. 1 m. Then in the “entrance hall” it will be possible to cook food in the wind, and the waste heat of the stove or cooking stove will go to heat not the world space, but the tent.

The heating element is assembled by welding plastic with a soldering iron through a Teflon film. It is also repaired in field conditions in an elementary way: with threads, cord, wire, chipping with pins or just sharp knots.

Note: supplying a tent with a heat source increases the efficiency and duration of ANY way of heating it.

Into the stone age

Our ancestors were not fools, since they survived then and lived to see civilization? A tent like a wigwam, a plague or a yaranga (see the figure on the right) keeps heat very well and is absolutely safe in terms of waste, because. ventilated. You can heat it with anything, from a catalytic burner to a fire. Heating - optimal, soft IR: sloping walls reflect it to the inhabitants. One condition: in order to keep the plus in the tent, the heater must work all night. Disadvantage: if the heater is flaming (stove, fire), the top of the plague tent is smoked. In winter - under sleeping bags you need to lay lodgments from spruce branches or, if there is no hay or straw, carry rolls of foam rubber with you. Not hard, but cumbersome.

The best plague tents are Finnish Lavvu, but domestic models are almost as good as them. It is easy to sew a winter chum tent with your own hands. In this case, for warming, you need to use clothing (not underwear) fleece with the fluffy side inward. A three-layer tent with insulation with synthetic winterizer or thin foam rubber during the campaign gains moisture and becomes heavier, swells and warms worse day by day.

We save heat

The accumulation of heat from an outdoor fire for a tent is also the oldest method of heating when camping. It is effective in places where there is enough wood fuel and there are stones approx. into a fist of dense heavy rocks: granite, gneiss, basalt, gabbro. The ideal option is a rounded moraine cobblestone. You will also need a cast-iron cauldron (better) or a steel bucket with a lid. The technique for heating the tent with natural heat accumulators is as follows:

1. We collect stones to fill the dishes without a top and put them in a pyramid;
2. We build a log house (well) or a hut (house) around a pile of stones, see fig. on right;
3. While dinner is being cooked and eaten, we add fuel and rake up coals on the stones;
4. We put the bucket / cauldron on the side of the burned-out fire and roll hot stones into it with a stick. There is no need to wrap them in foil, as advised in Runet: a metal dish will perfectly re-emit hard IR into soft;
5. We put the container with stones evenly and, in order to avoid heat loss due to convection, we fill the load with sand or dry earth;
6. We cover the container with a lid and hang it in a tent 0.5-1 m from the floor. Option (worse) - put on 4-5 stones.

The suspension option heats the tent up to 6 hours; with installation on the floor - 3-4 hours. In addition, the delivered bucket/boiler can be overturned. To prevent hot stones from rolling around the tent, the cover must be secured with wire or (if any) with a standard latch.

Heat - in the pipe!

Winter heating of the tent with a fire and a chimney (see the figure below) allows you to sleep on top of sleeping bags at -30 overboard. On YouTube you can find videos with the "exposure" of the impossibility (neither more nor less) of this method. Indeed, it is not always applicable. Thus, the excess of the bottom of the tent over the air intake end of the pipe must be at least 0.7 m. The recommended 0.5 was taken, probably due to thoughtless rounding. Further, bonfires are flame, light and smoke with varieties. In this case, you need a fire bonfire of a node (pos. a) or a reel (pos. b). Nodya can smolder all night, but it needs even logs from 1 m thick to an arm or thicker.

Finally, a thin-walled stainless steel pipe with a clearance diameter of 50-80 mm is needed. Simple steel will either burn out or not transfer enough heat to the air; aluminum will melt. Wrapping a pipe section in a fire with asbestos, as advised in some places, is nonsense, it is also a heat insulator. Also, a pipe is needed at least 2-2.5 m long; then warm air can be brought to the tent with a flexible hose. The pipe is assembled from knees with locks. In general, laying the heater turns out to be quite cumbersome, but for the base camp, heating with a pipe and a fire can be an option that saves the duty officer from looking after the stove and does not require additional fuel costs.

With air separation

In a 2-circuit petrol/kerosene/diesel camping heater (see figure on the right), the burner flame heats the heat exchanger through which the tent air is forcibly driven. 2-circuit heaters are safe in all respects, because placed outside, and very economical: 3 liters of diesel fuel is enough for continuous operation for 2-5 days. Disadvantages - high cost, bulkiness and energy dependence. They are used when the car remains at the base (it will need to be started periodically to recharge the battery) or in winter campsites with electricity.

"Oxygen"

Tent with a complete stove

This is the most expensive, but also the safest option if you use the oven according to the instructions. Almost all manufacturers of tourist equipment produce winter tents with stoves, but according to user reviews, there is some specialization depending on the nature of the trip. From domestic preferred:

• Chum, Winter, Blizzard - for a multi-day hike or with a base camp in a large group.
• Penguin, UP (1,2,4) - for singles (UP1) or overnight trips for a group of up to 4 people.
• Bullfinch, Bear, Stack - fishing.

The listed models are optionally equipped with a furnace, i.е. you can buy a stove later. From domestic camp stoves, Dymok, Snegir (with a heat exchanger), Sogra, Windrose, Poshekhonka or Onego's camp stove (Maslov's stove) are suitable for them. The latter is available for DIY, see the video below.

Video: do-it-yourself Onego tent oven

The stove in the tent

The risk of waste from a homemade tent stove is quite high, so sometimes camping stoves are made according to the scheme with a heat exchanger (pos. 1a in the figure) and placed outside. The disadvantage of this scheme is the complex, heavy and cumbersome fire-fighting cutting in the tent, so it is better to make a heating stove for a hike with a remote afterburner, pos. 1b. For house stoves, this scheme is rarely used due to technological complexity. For example, the efficiency of a country potbelly stove is easier to increase by introducing a long horizontal elbow - hogs into the chimney; in a tent, such an approach, of course, is not applicable.

As a tent stove with a remote afterburner, it has a huge advantage: in it, the temperature of the flue gases at the cut of the chimney source is much lower than in other metal stoves. As a result, a reliable fire-fighting cutting of a pipe in a tent turns out to be much easier and more compact: it turns out that a piece of fireproof fabric from 35x35 cm with a wire sewn into it or a flared stainless steel grommet, pos. 3 in fig. The gap between the grommet and the pipe is plugged with a rag from the same non-combustible fabric (shown by a blue arrow).

It is impossible to perform cutting from asbestos fabric: it is very dusty with carcinogenic dust. Satin weave fiberglass is usually used, but this is also not optimal - in the vicinity of a heated pipe, fiberglass becomes brittle over time and begins to gradually dust with glass microneedles, which is also by no means useful. The best choice in this case is basalt fabric for body armor. It is heavier than fiberglass, but absolutely reliable and safe.

Drawings of a folding camp stove with a remote afterburner are given in pos. 2. Its “folding” only seems relative: when folded (dimensions in brackets), this stove allows you to load an 80-liter backpack with it with standard packing, i.e. a strong man in a group can carry both the stove and his luggage, and a separate stove porter is not needed. The minimum thickness of stainless steel for this oven is 0.5 mm.

Note: when designing a camp stove for a tent on your own, it is advisable to focus on the heat engineering of the temporary stove by engineer Bystrov.

Gasoline

A catalytic heater for a winter tent gives a soft infrared and consumes less oxygen, but still decently. Nothing can be done to make it warm, the fuel needs an oxidizer. Therefore, they use camping heaters with catalytic afterburning twice a day: in the evening they turn on for the time from setting up the tent to lights out; turn it off at night! Then in the morning the tent attendant (he wakes up half an hour before the others) turns on the heater again while he warms up breakfast. In a small tent, it is better to direct the IR flow from top to bottom obliquely; in 6 or more local floor heaters with uniform radiation in all directions, pos. 6 in fig. For a fishing scarf, a mini heater-lantern is optimal, pos. 3.

Catalytic nozzles for cooking stoves and stoves (pos. 1) are emergency, they eat up oxygen in the tent very quickly. For weekend trips and fishing, gas heaters are more suitable, they are fireproof and their use does not require special experience. A catalytic tourist heater for a trip of more than 2-3 days is better to take kerosene, see above. If you are hiking with a base camp with the delivery of the avant-garde by transport, it may be more convenient to use a panel heater (pos. 5), because. You can cook 2 dishes at once on it. But in this case, you need to look both ways behind the connecting fitting (red arrow in pos. 5): suddenly a flame appeared there, you must immediately close the cylinder valve and check the connecting hose. A loner-extremist, who carries everything with him and can only rely on himself, is most suitable for a catalytic kerosene mini-heater with a hob, pos. 7.

Of great importance for the reliability of the catalytic heater is the basis of the catalyst - platinum or nickel. In general, afterburners on platinum are less susceptible to the so-called. catalyst poisoning and are not prone to sudden failures, however, the chemical purity of both the catalyst material and its microstructure is also important. It is by no means cheap platinum “china” that can fail at the most inopportune moment, but branded nickel can last for years. Visually, you can navigate by the type of afterburner: if the burner looks like a solid surface (pos. 2) or a tiny button (pos. 3) and glows yellow-orange in operation, but this is probably platinum. If, however, a rather large “pimple” glows to a maximum of light red (pos. 4), then most likely the afterburner is on nickel. In general, when choosing a catalytic camping heater, it is better to be guided by the manufacturer's reputation and its warranties. Tourists are fastidious people, such a camping life, but there are no serious complaints about catalytic heaters Kovea, Coleman, Camping, Pathfinder.

on alcohol

The history of ethyl alcohol as a camping fuel goes back centuries, and for good reason: you can only get drunk from alcohol if you get drunk. With a lack of oxygen, the alcohol flame goes out, almost without releasing carbon monoxide. True, alcohol is flammable: it is highly fluid, it impregnates everything that is possible and what is impossible, its saturated vapor pressure is high even at low temperatures, and the flash point is low. Therefore, a home-made alcohol burner should be taken with you as an emergency, especially since it can be made at home from a coffee can, see fig.

Best of all for a camping alcohol burner, a jar with a tin lid, pos. 1-3: it can be kindled by pouring 4-5 ml of it, darling, into the lid; then the launch will be delayed up to 5-7 minutes instead of 1-3 when ignited from the pallet. In a jar with a plastic lid (pos. 4-6), you will firstly have to hermetically seal the gaping top with tin, which will now become the bottom. Secondly, punch a filling hole closed by a coin. If it flies off a flaming burner, a strong flame will burst out of the filling hole, and right there - splashes of burning alcohol. In general, not an option for a hike.

Nozzles for alcohol vapors are located at the height of the can 2/3-3/4 from the bottom. The higher the nozzles, the weaker the flame and the greater the possible filling of the burner. Thus, it is possible to regulate its thermal power and operating time within a fairly wide range: fuel consumption varies over time from 1.5 to 6 ml / min. For the safety and efficiency of this burner, it is extremely important that the nozzles are of the same diameter 1-2 mm, located evenly around the circumference at the same height and ensure the formation of flames. Therefore, the manufacture of an alcohol burner from a can is made next. way:

1. On a wooden block of the required thickness, an awl or a locksmith's scriber is fixed horizontally;
2. The jar is pressed against the marking point and turned;
3. Next, the jar is wrapped with a strip of paper, on which the beginning / end of the circle is marked;
4. The paper strip is marked into 12-15 equal parts (for an 80 mm can);
5. On a piece of paper on the shell (round sidewall), the banks mark the centers of the holes;
6. Pierce holes with a round awl of the desired diameter;
7. The awl is stuck horizontally and perpendicular to the shell in this place;
8. Each time when punching another hole, the tool, without removing it, is smoothly turned upwards by the same angle of 45-50 degrees. It is convenient to use a template from a piece of plywood for this.

Note: a wide variety of information from liquid fuel burners, descriptions and drawings of home-made ones can be found on the English site zenstoves.net

Candles

Heating the tent with candles is, so to speak, fashionable, but also the worst way. The thermal power of the candle is only 40-50 W, and saturated hydrocarbons of the paraffin series with a slight oxygen deficiency give a lot of carbon monoxide. In the old days, there were cases of burning out from candles in large high ballrooms. If the tent is heated with candles, then it is necessary to raise the canopy at the entrance by 3-4 cm from the bottom, and open the window on the opposite side. The only advantage of candle heating is uniform heat release for a long time.

However, good heating with just candles is not easy to achieve even in a one-man tent: the heat of a candle is predominantly molecular-kinetic. To convert it to soft IR requires a construction of ceramic flower pots (pos. 1 and 2 in the figure), fragile, bulky and rather heavy. Its efficiency strongly depends on the distance between the visible end of the flame and the lower cut of such a cap, so it is better to use short plump holiday candles for heating. Their burning time is 3-4 hours, which also reduces the risk of burning.

Note: A "pot" converter of molecular kinetic heat into soft IR is best used with an alcohol burner, branded or homemade. Branded cooking and heating sets of this type are produced from unbreakable ceramics, pos. 3. I cooked dinner, put on a cap - it warmed up by the end of the scarf. There is not enough oxygen - the alcohol flame will turn yellow, weaken, stretch upwards, which is immediately noticeable, but will not give a dangerous fumes.

Nevertheless, household lighting candles can be successfully used in autumn-spring and winter fishing for warming hands, drying mittens and wet cuffs. In this case, the candle is placed in a casing from an old thermos (see the figure on the right) or something like it; at the bottom, a window is cut through to install a candle and provide air access. A candle fishing heater, with a slight minus outside, maintains a tiny plus in the tent, sufficient so that the holes do not freeze and insufficient for the handkerchief to freeze to ice.

Heating without heater

Do you know that there are tents in which, without heating, you can sleep in underwear under a blanket at minus 30 outside? These are single-seat balloon tents (cocoon tents) suspended from trees, see fig.:

A homemade stove for heating a tent can be used so that tourists can spend the night warm and even in cases where you need to heat a steam room in camping conditions. The author of this model uses it mainly in the off-season at temperatures at not very low temperatures - about minus 5 degrees and only occasionally tested it in frosty conditions when going skiing.

But such a stove (photo below) can be purchased at this Chinese store.

Necessary elements of the stove and materials:
- Pipe made of steel 0.2 mm thick, weight 360 grams. Made from 4 foam cans.
- Chimney made of steel 0.2 mm thick (cover on the pipe to protect against snow or rain on the street), weight 20 grams. It is made from one can of foam, weight 20 grams; an electrode with a diameter of 3 mm was also used.
– Housing made of galvanized steel sheet 0.4 mm thick, weight 1 kg; steel blind rivets 3.2x6 mm.
– Furnace legs made of galvanized steel rods for suspended ceilings, length 1 m, diameter 4 mm, weight 160 grams.
– The passage through the roof of the tent is made of 0.2 mm thick tinned steel, made from the bottom of a can, weight 120 grams.
– Cover made of terpauling (reinforced polyethylene, plus a sling – nylon thread, weight 160 grams.

In general, the weight of the entire tourist stove for the tent was 1.86 kg. Folded size 320x240x150 mm. The stove can be conveniently placed in a lightweight 80 liter backpack.

About the design and features of the stove for the forest

There is an afterburner in the stove, pay attention to the row of rivets on top, this is the riveted partition of the chamber (at a distance of 38 mm from the top, close to the front wall and 26 mm from the back wall). The pipe is at the end of the chamber. The gases go to the back wall, rise into the chamber, then go to the front wall and into the pipe. All passages with a section not less than the section of the pipe. Thanks to the afterburner, the fuel is used more efficiently and sparks do not fly from the pipe. There is no column.

Before using the stove in a tent, you must first heat it outside to completely get rid of the zinc coating. If after that zinc remains in separate places, burn it with a gas burner.
The developer of this tourist mini-stove has been successfully using it since 2009 in tents specially made for the stove, the total operating time by 2012 was about 200 hours. The photo shows a drawing of a tourist stove.

Nevertheless, even with a good sleeping bag, the stove still does not hurt. It makes it much easier in cold weather.
Check out more (up to 40 degrees), with which you can sleep without even hiding under a blanket.
Why is the top of this stove not flat, because it would be possible to cook food on the stove? According to the author of the furnace, the thin flat steel sheet from which the furnace is made deforms somewhat after the first heating. The plane of contact with the bottom of the dish is reduced. To maintain the boiling point of water, you have to overheat the stove, which is dangerous in a small tent. because from its radiation the surrounding things overheat. And it becomes uncomfortable for people in a small tent to be near the stove.

Special tents for the camp stove

For this stove, two tents were made - houses. Three-slope 1.5x2.6 meters, and gable 1.3x2.0 meters. Both tents have high sides 0.6 m and a height of 1.4 m. The bottom of the gable tent comes unfastened, it is used without a bottom with a stove as a sauna and for winter ski picnics. A gable with a bottom is used to store things and products.
This development can be used as a camp stove for a bath, but only at positive temperatures, better in summer. For a bath, the stove was heated at an outdoor temperature of up to plus 4 degrees.

Hiking, fishing or similar hunting - rest alone with nature is always beautiful. But, unfortunately, a person is accustomed to certain living conditions and to a certain level of comfort, therefore, in order to feel good on vacation, he must be full and must not suffer from the cold. For our unpredictable and rather cold climate, the latter is especially true. Of course, one night you can spend the night and wrap yourself in all kinds of sleeping bags, and during the only winter fishing of the year, get off with warm clothes. But for those who are used to long hikes, or do not want to experience the feeling of cold, a do-it-yourself tent stove is a great and inexpensive way out. Moreover, it will not be difficult to assemble it.

• Light weight - otherwise, what kind of mobility can we talk about?
• Profitability - carrying bags of fuel with you is still a pleasure.
• The fire safety of the furnace is a forest, a zone of increased fire hazard, and therefore the furnace must comply with all safety requirements. Ideally, if there is also a function to control the temperature of the stove, but this is more typical of purchased devices.
• Easy to set up in a tent.
• Reliability.
• Ease of operation.

These are just the requirements that we can make to the simplest, home-made camp stove for a tent. Expensive purchased models are able to provide their owners with a number of other functions, but we are interested in a stove that we can assemble ourselves.

Do-it-yourself oven for tents and outdoor recreation

Let's find out how you can make a small homemade, portable dry fuel stove. Yes, such gastronomic preferences of the oven are more likely a minus than a plus, but, nevertheless, in terms of other parameters, such an oven is very effective. It can be assembled in a couple of minutes, it is easy to install and easy to transport.

What materials for the manufacture of the furnace do we need?

1. Two cans with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 6 cm (the size of the can must be selected based on the size of the mug: the diameter of the can should be 10 mm wider than the diameter of the mug).
2. A small amount of tin;
3. Bolts and washers;
4. Links from an old TV antenna;
5. Metal mug.

Steps for making a tent stove:

• First of all, you need to process the upper edges of the can with pliers, so that there are no burrs left there.
• We cut out a circle of 30mm with three petals from tin, and bend the petals at a right angle.
• In proportion to the location of the petals on the cut out fragment, it is necessary to drill three holes with a diameter of 4 mm in the jar.
• The circle falls to the very bottom of the jar so that the petals enter the drilled holes. After that, they can be bent, and dry fuel can be placed on the circle.
• At a distance of 20 mm from the top edge, three more holes of 5 mm must be drilled and at an angle of 120 relative to each other. In these holes, having previously placed washers for greater rigidity, M4 bolts up to 40 mm long are installed. Bolts are fixed with nuts.
• A metal mug is installed on the bolts.
• Now you need to attach the legs, for this you can use the links from the antenna. We need three legs, which means we need to drill three holes in the jar at an angle of 120 °. We also need some thermal insulation material for the foot tips. An important note, the length of the legs should in no case exceed the diameter of the can, this threatens with instability for the entire structure.
• The top cover for the stove can be made from another tin can. The jar must be cut off by cutting the side on both sides and in order for it to fit snugly into our design, slightly bend
• As a handle, you can use the clamping terminal from the power supply, attaching it with a nut in the very center of the cover. The cover is needed for more economical fuel consumption and protection of the main structure from debris.
• The last stage, several 5 mm holes are drilled at the bottom of the stove, evenly distributing them over the entire bottom area.

This design is only a suggested option, you can upgrade or simplify it yourself. In the end, creating a device to warm up a mug of soup and warm up a little is quite simple. But before we move on to a more complex and massive design, I would like to give a couple of tips on operating this model:

1. To facilitate the ignition process, drop two drops of kerosene onto dry fuel;
2. If you want to be able to fully heat up food and even cook scrambled eggs, then on the top edge of the stove, make cuts with a dotted line. This small upgrade will significantly increase the functionality of the device.

Alternative design

Let's talk about how else you can make a tent stove with your own hands? Our next build is larger and will be suitable for those who have a car to transport such an oven. But on the other hand, such a stove can heat even a large tent designed for several people. Plus, it is quite fuel efficient. And the fuel for the stove is logs and sticks.

What to make a stove for a tent? Let's say right away that we do not need any expensive materials, usually everyone has everything they need at hand. The body will be a piece of steel pipe, with a diameter of 150 mm and a length of 600 mm. Of course, it is not necessary to take strictly such dimensions, choose what is right for you, just make sure that the proportions are maintained.

The pipe must be in a vertical position, it is the "body" and the core of our furnace. A rectangular hole must be cut in the lower part of the pipe, its height should be about 300 mm, and its width should be a quarter of the circumference. It is necessary to cut the pipe with something with a thin blade, since the cutting width should be minimal. The cut off piece will later become the door of our stove. Therefore, the cut out part must be cut into two unequal parts: one - 100 mm, the other - 200 mm. The larger part is the furnace door, and the smaller one is the ash pan door.

Let's return to our base, it is necessary to weld a branch pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and a length of 150 mm to the upper part of the furnace, the products of combustion of fuel will exit through it. To the branch pipe, always through the coupling, it is necessary to weld a piece of the chimney.

We will cover the ends of the stove with square sheets of steel with a minimum thickness of 3 mm and a size exceeding the diameter of the stove by 100 mm. It is best to attach the sheets using electric welding, but if you are not comfortable with welding, you can use corners. Just below the top edge of our ash pan door, we need to install the grate and the stove is ready for use.

In principle, the described design is already a workable thing, but for greater efficiency it can be slightly modernized, namely:

• Install a steel casing made of steel sheets 2 mm thick. These steel sheets are attached to the ends of our plates either by welding, or pulled together with aluminum wire, or in the old fashioned way, with corners. Choose the method that is most convenient for you, although welding is the best in terms of efficiency.
• Make rectangular holes in the installed casing so that you can safely use the firebox or ash pan.
• Fill the rest of the space between the stove and casing with clay. After all, clay is an ideal heat accumulator.

Here, a more massive, but effective design is ready to use, don't worry, it won't eat a lot of firewood. A couple of logs will last for many, many hours. But just think in advance about the stand for such a stove and do not place it close to the awning of the tent, especially if the fabric is flammable. Remember, safety is above all.

Naturally, the described designs are in many ways inferior to their store counterparts, including in terms of attractive appearance, but they are able to fulfill their function to the fullest. Therefore, the decision: to buy or do everything yourself, remains with you.

Another interesting life hack from Uncle Vitya Bazaryev. I propose for consideration an interesting stove made from improvised materials, which will not let you freeze in a car or in a tent.

The design is interesting in that there is a chimney, the role of which is played by a metal hose. Such a chimney is easy to bring to the street and it does not get very hot, according to Uncle Vitya.

The design of the furnace is a large tin can, inside which a small can of canned food is installed, fuel is burned in it. Dry alcohol is best, it gives off a lot of heat. You can also use candles, Uncle Vitya makes himself from wax, which he buys from beekeepers on the market. But if you use candles, there is a chance that it will melt inside the oven, but this is rather my personal opinion.

The length of the tube is such that its end is somewhere above the fire source. This tube is best placed on the side, then it can be made more authentic.

At the bottom of the furnace is a blower, a series of drilled holes. To extinguish the stove, you need to lower the aluminum ring on the holes, which is located on the stove.

Stoves for tents have countless designs, both factory-made and home-made: from the simplest boxes or kegs (usually called potbelly stoves) to the most complex - with afterburners and spark arresters. The choice is very rich both in stores and in the minds of our Kulibins.

Any camping stove for a tent, regardless of design, fired up to red, will warm it in any frost. All the bells and whistles of the designs only increase the efficiency of the stove, that is, with the same heating, they save firewood (in this case, they are harvested in a special, small size)

Furnaces cost from 5,000 to 10,000 rubles. (depending on complexity and material).

Tent stove: types of designs and main characteristics

The classic forms of the stove for the tent: rectangular and cylindrical (barrel-shaped). The latter has a large heat transfer.

Elements of the internal device of the furnace:

The grate serves for air access (blowing) to the burning fuel.

From left to right: stove without afterburner, stove with afterburner, stove with remote afterburner

The afterburner provides a more complete combustion of fuel in the stove, keeps the heat that goes away with the smoke. Sometimes the afterburner serves as a spark arrester. Taken out, it increases the heating area.

Spark arrester - in the form of a hog (pipe bend) or in the form of a metal mesh in one of the pipe segments. He, in part, protects the roof from sparks.

These parts are optional, the stove may well work without them.

oven weight. Depends on design and material. Complicated - harder. Usually tourist stoves for tents are made of sheet steel. The thinner the steel, the lighter the furnace, respectively, but it will also serve (burn out) faster. Even lighter ones are made of titanium, usually home-made products welded by employees of defense enterprises. The average weight of the stove is 3-4 kg.

Pipe. By design, there are two types: from segments inserted into each other and a sheet of tin rolled into a tube, fixed with wire.

The wire is sometimes replaced with ready-made rim rings, which are put on top of a rolled tin, some insert one ring of a smaller diameter into the inside of the structure to make it more rigid.

Scheme of installing a camping stove pipe

Typically, the tent camp stove pipe is installed vertically. So it's more familiar. But there is also an inclined option, which has advantages: they use a shorter pipe, which means it is lighter and its heat transfer is higher. All the heat from the red-hot vertical pipe, along with the smoke, goes up, and from the inclined one remains in the tent.

Transportation. Usually, a tourist stove for tents is carried in its entirety, having removed the legs and pipe segments from it and put it inside, although there are also completely collapsible models. If the pipe is made of sheet metal, then it unfolds and folds like a sheet of paper.

Carrying an all-welded oven body is convenient in drags - you can also load heavy things into it, such as canned food or an ax.

Useful articles:

Tourist stoves for tents: installation methods

Various methods of installation of the stove are used.

For example, the suspension of a tourist stove for tents under the ridge on cables for tents Vyuga and Domik - read more about tents under the stove here.

Fixing to the central post in the tent with a special bracket.

Scheme of installing a stove in a tent

And just installation on legs, which is used most often. However, in deep snow this is not very convenient, since the stove will heat it all the time.

We set up a camp stove for a tent like this: there was a square "window" in the bottom of the tent. A small hole was dug in the snow in this window, two ski poles wrapped in fiberglass or asbestos were placed and a stove was placed on them. Sometimes they used two thick branches if it was a pity for sticks.

Modern solar gas can become a worthy replacement for a stove. which runs on diesel fuel. About 2 liters of fuel are required for 10 hours of warming combustion. A solar gas tank is designed for approximately this amount, which means there is no need for tedious night duty to support the fire.

My personal opinion is that when choosing a stove for a tent, one should not chase after complex, and therefore heavy and expensive structures. Quite simple, unpretentious, popularly called bourgeois (without grates, afterburners and spark arresters). Since saving firewood in the forest (growing for free) during a hike is not a paramount necessity. In any case, the stove assumes duty, the awake "sentry" no matter how often to lay firewood.

Do-it-yourself tent stove

Hiking, fishing or similar hunting - rest alone with nature is always beautiful. But, unfortunately, a person is accustomed to certain living conditions and to a certain level of comfort, therefore, in order to feel good on vacation, he must be full and must not suffer from the cold. For our unpredictable and rather cold climate, the latter is especially true. Of course, one night you can spend the night and wrap yourself in all kinds of sleeping bags, and during the only winter fishing of the year, get off with warm clothes. But for those who are used to long hikes, or do not want to experience the feeling of cold, a do-it-yourself tent stove is a great and inexpensive way out. Moreover, it will not be difficult to assemble it.

What features should a mini tent stove have?

For equipment of this type, a number of very diverse requirements are presented, here are some of them: (See also: How to make a chimney for a potbelly stove with your own hands)