How to connect two single beds. Installation of a homemade double bed

Do you want to change the interior of the apartment? The best solution would be to buy furniture. Organize a comfortable place to sleep with a good new bed.

Before you start assembling a single bed, you should choose a spacious place and place all the components separately from each other. Familiarize yourself with the name and role of each item in the box. So you can immediately find the part you need. Cover the surface with packing cardboard to avoid damaging and soiling the floor.

During the assembly process, it is not necessary to screw the screws into the parts strongly. In the event of an error, it will be difficult to dismantle the structure. We recommend that you first assemble the fragile frame and only then, subject to its complete visual similarity with the instructions, proceed to tightening all the fasteners.

Before starting work, glue the sidewalls and other parts with a special plastic tape, if provided in the package. In the deliveries of some models, it is already attached to the edges of each element, which greatly simplifies the work.

Single bed assembly instructions

Many people prefer to install everything on their own without the help of a specialist. This approach saves a lot of money. Assembling a single bed is a fairly simple process, because any model is similar in terms of the structure of the frame and supporting elements.

To get started, you will need a number of standard tools:

• Screwdriver;
• Screwdriver Set;
• Spanners.

Each product comes with a factory manual for assembly and operation. When performing any action, proceed from the official instructions for assembling a single bed. The standard model of such a product has 2 meters in length and 90 centimeters in width.

First, lay out the details. Then you should install the fittings for the footboard and headboard. The package of most beds includes a ready-made frame, to which you need to attach the base and crossbar.
At the final stage, you should install the headboards and install the mattress. If there are additional storage boxes, assemble them separately and install the resulting result inside the frame.

Single bed assembly diagram

The box of each bed has an identical design, which does not depend on the shape of the supporting elements or the presence of additional mechanisms. It is quite easy to install the parts if you have a good single bed assembly scheme in front of your eyes.

Let us consider in more detail the entire process of installing bedroom furniture described above. The legs for the bed must be assembled separately. This is done at the initial stage. We advise you to immediately separate the elements for supporting the left and right sides, so as not to get confused.

In the configuration, find euroscrews (their other name is confirmations). In each of them, small holes should be made with a drill: diameter - 5-8 millimeters, depth - 60 millimeters maximum. To screw in euro screws, you will need a screwdriver with a hexagonal bit. All legs must be fastened to each other on confirmations.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, it remains only to attach all the side elements of the bed frame. Their installation is carried out with the help of euro screws, which are screwed into the side boards and self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the support legs of the bed.

If you want to increase the strength of the structure, we advise you to purchase additional bolts to tighten the furniture structure. They connect the support to the sidewalls well, preventing wear of parts.

A single bed with a standard frame can always be independently adjusted according to the level of lifting. To do this, make small cuts on the support of the lower part, which can later be twisted to the desired level.

The bed for adults determines the look of the interior of the bedroom. And if it is in full view of everyone in a studio or budget apartment, then together with a wardrobe and a table it forms a triumvirate, from which the whole design of the home dances. This circumstance affects production and trade markups: for family double beds, they are not so ugly, but they could be cheaper. Hence the understandable interest of home craftsmen in home-made beds: after all, it’s not a TV and it’s not a car. And not even a wardrobe or a chandelier.

Craftsmen make beds of various types and designs. Examples in fig. cover only the core of amateur bed building, which still has many bends, side jets and swirls. We will stay more in the main jet.

Making a bed with your own hands is both simple and difficult at the same time. Simply because technologically there is nothing complicated in it; a very good bed can be made with your own hands outside the carpentry workshop at home, right in the apartment. It is difficult because the bed is one of the most loaded pieces of furniture and almost the only one that is designed for regular (or irregular, it’s like that) significant alternating loads. The ratios of their magnitudes to the bearing capacity of parts of acceptable dimensions are close to those in industrial equipment or military equipment, but it is not good to design an everyday thing like a machine bed or a gun carriage. To fit given requirements into the minimum of available material, labor and money, you need to make full use of the mechanics of wooden structures and related disciplines. This article is meant to give you a basic understanding of the bed, its main parts and how they work in the structure. Illustrative materials can be used both directly and as a basis for your own developments.

From the anecdotal history of beds

The famous Soviet submarine captain Alexander Marinesko once had an affair with a very temperamental Swede from ... mmm ... a public house in the city where the flotilla was based. The glory of the hero, who in the kriegsmarine from the junior officer to the grand admirals was seriously considered the sea devil himself with a team of werewolves, the lady was not particularly impressed. But an enthusiastic adoration for Captain Marinesco flared up in her when, during the next rendezvous, the bed collapsed under them.

The fact is that the craft of that person was hereditary. So to speak, a tribal tradition along the female line. She inherited the bed from her grandmother. Here is a bed worthy of such a pair, we will try to build.

Entry level bed

Beds of a simplified design, in which the backs are included in the power circuit, and the legs are made integral with them, only economy class is made for adults. And then, the legs are separated from the backs and placed on the side close to them, so that an angle is formed that gives the product at least minimal rigidity. But all the same, somewhere you have to put additional props resting directly on the floor, which is not optimal, see below. Drawings of a bed of this type, designed for moderately intensive use for 10-12 years, are shown in fig. The front back/wall differs from the back only in the absence of a decorative extension. The material of the backs of the laminated chipboard, the lounger is plywood; the rest is wood. Assembly on self-tapping screws for wood and steel corners. And we will go further, to beds that can withstand a grandmother with many lovers and her offspring.

Material

A do-it-yourself bed is best made of wood; it will cost less than laminated chipboard with the same complexity of work, but the bed will last for decades. The furniture array will be more expensive than laminated chipboard, but you can get by with timber without defects if you take it from a closed heated warehouse. Lumber stored under a canopy or in the open air is suitable for furniture only after a long drying at home, and a lot of waste is generated due to warping. A crib, bedside table, chest of drawers or a coffee table can still be carved out of such a forest, but it definitely won’t go to an adult bed with its heavily loaded parts.

A bed for several years, until money is collected for high-quality furniture, can be made from simple sanded chipboard, not laminated. It will cost along with painting / varnishing or tight-fitting self-adhesive under a tree no more expensive than wood. Problems of shrinkage and warping, of course, disappear, but the service life of the bed will not exceed 20 years due to natural deterioration of the binder. Chipboard bed designs have a number of features, discussed below.

What if it's an array?

Solid wood furniture is expensive, but just like chipboard, it is guaranteed against warping and shrinkage. And on his bed will go much less than on the closet. If you can afford such a prestigious pleasure, then for the sample in fig. a product of German masters: an original double bed made of structural solid wood. Timber and other lumber are not used. The original version with a headboard-blinds is designed to be installed in the middle of the room. Such a headboard near the wall will gather dust, but you can not do it, or do something else, see below. The array frame alone will take a little more than 2 square meters. m; in terms of money for pine, it will come out about 10 thousand rubles. The cheapest ready-made solid bed costs at least three times as much.

About connections

A wooden bed will be most durable if assembled on carpentry joints. The most commonly used are tongue-and-groove, closed and open, and a half-tree or a quarter tie-in. Dowels and dowels are used less frequently due to their lower strength. All wood-to-wood joints must be glued.

Joiner's connections gain design strength for some time, up to 2 weeks, they require sufficiently high production skills, special tools and a separate workshop, because. give a lot of sawdust and shavings. Therefore, a home-made bed is assembled on metal connectors. The fasteners will have to be tightened as the tree dries out, but the bed “on steel” will take on the full load immediately upon manufacture.

In beds "for a while" and, in some cases, durable (see below), it is advisable to use universal thin-walled steel perforated plates. From them you can bend corners, pockets, or both together, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, it is better to take the corners with a stamped stiffener, pos. 2.

The bed "on steel for a long time" is better to assemble on bolts and nuts; bolt heads in the front surfaces are sealed in the same way as confirmations: with decorative plugs or PVA putty or liquid nails on sawdust. But locking the nuts in pairs is a steel washer - a spring washer, as in pos. 2, on the tree fades into the past. It is better to take shaped nuts with a corrugated bottom surface (press nuts) complete with Teflon washers. Elastic durable Teflon is eternal, it will keep the nut from unscrewing no worse than a grower or a petal washer, and most likely you won’t have to tighten the connection at all.

Note: the use of metal in the main structure of the bed is limited. Why and when it is needed, see below.

About nails

Now it’s not customary to talk about nail joints. Like, antiquated old-fashioned, but a screwdriver with confirmations is cool. But it's too early to discount nails. In addition to the cheapness of fasteners, nails do not require preparatory operations (drilling), special tools, wearing out replaceable working bodies for it and do not produce waste. As for the noise, an experienced carpenter “bales” 100 mm nails with a 200-gram hammer so that you can hear it in the next room only if you listen.

There are corrugated nails on sale, see fig., Holding the tree no worse than confirmations and also self-tightening as the wood dries out. In nodes where the operating load does not tend to pull out the nail, the connections on them are quite reliable, and if the load falls along the nail from the cap to the tip, they are absolutely reliable. There are enough such knots in the bed, at least fastening the spacers to the sides, see below.

Bed device

The bed frame in an adult way is a rectangular frame made of boards placed on the edge - a tsarg. The frame can be equipped with additional stiffeners; it is placed on legs and the front (foot) and back (head) backs are attached to it. A bed (bed, lodgement) is placed in the frame, on which a mattress is placed. To make less pile from it fall on the floor, and dust from the floor to the mattress, the bed is often covered or covered with a mattress pad made of tarpaulin, canvas, etc. technical fabrics. Also, a mattress topper is sometimes called a solid slab bed.

Note: in mattresses on a rigid basis (spring and rather expensive orthopedic ones), the bed and mattress pad are part of the mattress. But a lodgement in a bed under them is still needed for the reasons described below.

Tsargi

Tsars are made of board or chipboard. Plywood is not suitable, because. plywood is very flexible and prone to delamination over long lengths under dynamic loads. The thickness of the tsarg is from 30 mm; width for a bed up to 2.2x1.6 m from 170, but better from 200 mm.

In high-quality beds, the sides are connected with dowels or, if an open connection is acceptable for aesthetics, with a half-wood tie-in, a through spike with a wedging or a dovetail. Keyed connections are not applicable in this case, because do not exclude the displacement of the tsarg along the key, and in this direction the greatest loads fall on the connection. For laying the bed from the inside, support bars are attached to the tsargs. They crash at the corners into each other half a tree, on the left in fig.

In simpler and cheaper beds, the drawers are assembled into a frame on metal fasteners (corners + hardware), and the support bars at the corners do not converge, on the right in Fig. Under the bed on the lamellas (see below), spacers can be attached to them, but not necessarily, separating the nests of the lamellas. They may or may not be on the sides of beds of any class, depending on the design of the slats and the bed as a whole.

Note: if the support bar under the lamellas is placed on the side assembly, the spacers are nailed to it in advance. If the spacers are placed on the side of the assembly, then they need to be nailed to the board.

About prefabricated sidewalls

The bed in the bedroom on the sides with textile inserts is much more hygienic, because. dynamic loads effectively ventilate the under-bed space. One of the designs of the prefabricated sidewall is shown in Fig. on right. The side tsargi cut into the drill with a hidden (deaf) spike. The fabric insert can be solid, depending on the aesthetics, then the spacer is not needed. It is also not necessary to fasten the fabric with dowels in the grooves, as in industrial production; it can be fixed with slats nailed from the inside. Then the loops under the nails in the fabric are cut in advance, the slats are nailed, if only the material is grabbed, the fabric is pulled and the slats are nailed tightly. The fabric must be decaged, i.e. 2-3 times soaked and dried.

Bed

If there are partitions in the bed frame, for example, under the drawer niches that can work as stiffeners, and the mattress is on a rigid frame, then sometimes the bed is not made at all, pos. 1 in fig. below. In this case, a sheet of plywood 8-16 mm with ventilation holes is laid under a soft mattress, pos. 2. But this is far from the best option, and not only due to the high consumption of material and the amount of waste.

The bed bed does not just hold the mattress, while at the same time providing ventilation for it and the space under the bed. It must have a certain elasticity in order to take on those same dynamic loads, and to transfer to the frame only what it can withstand from grandmother to granddaughter without creaking. Therefore, the bed of a "real adult" bed is recruited from freely laid boards - lamellas. A plywood mattress pad under a very soft mattress is laid on them, and without slats it will turn out to be something like a pressing punch for a bed.

slats

The slats can be laid across or along the bed. In terms of mechanics, transverse ones are better, they are softer and more evenly dampen dynamic loads. They also provide the sweetest sleep and everything else on the bed, because. play up and down according to the movements of the body. If the width of the bed is more than 1.1 m, the slats are most often made double, stacked in 2 rows. Then, in the middle of the frame along its length, a lamella support beam is installed - a spar, pos. 3. In factory models, the spar is made of a steel corrugated pipe with sockets and / or a support platform for the lamellas.

Note: don't be surprised by aviation terminology; further there will also be stringers with ribs. The designers of the first airplanes adopted a lot, among others, from furniture makers, incl. and terms.

The wooden axial support of the slats requires additional reinforcement from below, because it accounts for the maximum (antinode, in technical terms) of dynamic loads. For the reasons given below, props of any kind should be avoided. How to be a do-it-yourselfer here, we'll see a little later.

The lamellas can be flat or curved upwards. The latter are bent in advance, it is impossible to put flat boards instead of lamellas: they will quickly loosen the bed, even if they only sleep on it. The bent slats of expensive beds are equipped with plastic tips that provide the required gap between the slats (see below) without spacers on the support bars and effective damping of alternating forces.

Bent slats are designed for fairly expensive mattresses; as a rule, complete or recommended for the bed. Lying on this one feels like a boyar on a swan featherbed, but the mattress is of the middle and lower price segment, incl. orthopedic, on bent lamellas sometimes gets off, and the neighbors in the bed in a dream roll down to the edge or pile on top of each other.

It is better for a home master to get by with flat lamellas. Firstly, any mattress will fall on them; those under the royal-boyar down jackets are also designed for a flat bed. Secondly, the lamellas can then be made whole, and the spar can be replaced with 2 stringers, pos. 4. The antinode of the dynamics will fall on the free space, and a bar from 75x50, placed on the edge, will go to the stringers. True, l’amour le trois on such a bed will turn out not so hot, how pleasant, but we will expect that readers do not suffer from a tendency to deviations in the intimate sphere.

Finally, the bed bed with drawers also needs to be spring-loaded for sleeping comfort and product durability. A spar cut into the partition walls of the boxes will not only limit their capacity, but can have an unpleasant side effect, see below. In this case - there is nothing to do - you will have to lay longitudinal lamellas, pos. 5.

How not to with lamellas

First, it is not necessary to nail the lamellas to the frame and / or “reinforce” them with stringers in the presence of a spar, pos. 6. The power circuit of the bed is designed so that the lamellas take on the dynamics of loads, and the frame takes on statics. With tightly fixed lamellas, they will exchange one and the other, which for a lying person will be expressed unambiguously - in a bad dream. As for the stringers, they simply won’t feel anything in this scheme and will only wonder why they were installed? For the sake of extra labor and material costs? If we already make a bed on stringers, then without a spar, see above.

The second mistake is too frequent and / or wide lamellas with small gaps, pos. 7. Ventilation worsens and too rigid spring bed turns into the same punch. The norm for installing lamellas is 6.5 + 0.5 pcs. per meter of bed size perpendicular to their long axes. Material - board (100-120) x (20-25) or plywood (100-120) x (10-12).

And a completely unforgivable mistake - a deaf hard bed, pos. 8. There can be only one justification for the presence of such beds in production and sale: they look “cool” on the trading floor without a mattress. And for the home master, another minus is added: why put expensive decorative material where it will not be visible?

Lamels and racks

There are beds with a flaw in the design, sometimes necessary for budget models, but still annoying: the presence of support posts that transfer loads directly to the floor, see fig. on right. Recall that in the right bed only the frame through the legs should interact with the floor. And in this product are not required, but possible, 2 fatal defects:

• The floor is very hard, e.g. laminate on a substrate without lag on the self-leveling screed. Depending on the location of the bed in the room (it is impossible to read or accurately simulate on a home computer), even the involuntary movements of the sleeper through the racks will be given back, and the effect of the princess and the pea will appear in the dream.
• Paul on the lags. Due to the different mechanical characteristics of the flooring and the bed frame, it, being absolutely sound and not loosened at all, will turn out to be creaky. Especially at the most inappropriate moments for the perception of such sounds.

Legs, floor and frame

The legs of the bed, like the slats, work in two ways. Even threefold, given the possibility of its movement. But in a bed that stands in its place indestructibly, they do more than just hold the frame. It is in the legs that the remnants of the bed dynamics and its return from the floor are extinguished. The interaction of loads opposite in the direction of propagation contributes to resonance; this is one of the possible reasons why the bed creaks and creaks no matter how you sort it out and pull it up.

To avoid resonance, the legs of the bed must, in addition to overall strength, have a low mechanical quality factor. Therefore, legs made of boards or L-shaped chipboard are bad, they ring well. In addition, they are known to break easily when dragging the bed. So her legs must be made of timber; preferably coniferous. A section from 50x50 will be enough for both strength and vibration damping. Thicker, of course, will not hurt, especially if the tree of the legs is dense deciduous, then it is advisable to take from 100x100.

The thickening of the timber legs also gives constructive advantages: in an expensive bed, or home-made for a long time, the frame sides cut into the legs without any problems in any way, as on the left in Fig. This will not only strengthen the bed, but also reduce the likelihood of squeaking to nothing, and will also make it possible to make a solid headboard, incl. oblique, see below. And in a simple bed “on steel”, the same legs provide high strength of the frame corners; therefore - the entire bed, in the center in fig.

Finally, the side tsargs unloaded with powerful legs will make it possible to make a bed such that the Swedish grandmother never dreamed of. Namely: to strengthen the frame with transverse stiffness braces - ribs, on the right in the figure, from boards placed on the edge half in comparison with the tsargs of width and thickness. They put ribs under the bed, they do not replace it! They are attached to the tsargs either by cutting through a spike (not half a tree or into a worm!), Or using metal pockets. This is one of the cases when the metal in the bed is better than woodwork, see below for another.

Bed and podium

A bed with a podium has been friends for a long time: for respect in a luxury bedroom, pos. 1 in Fig., for space zoning in a studio apartment, pos. 2, or, conversely, in a cramped odnushka, pos. 3. However, not a bed with a podium, but the actual bed-podium as one product, exists mainly in three forms. The first is a bed retractable from the podium in the same odnushka, pos. 4, or children's, pos. 5, which allows you to save a usable area equal to that of a bed. If the ratio of the length of the room to its width is not more than 4/3, then the corner bed-podium, pos. 6, has little effect on the ergonomics of the room, you just need to think carefully about the layout.

In an ordinary dwelling, a bed structurally combined with a podium, pos. 7 is used mainly for hygienic purposes: both the floor under it and the mattress from the floor almost do not gather dust. But such a solution is used quite rarely, because. the podium resonates easily. Much more often, a podium bed is placed in a niche, which in itself dampens sounds well, and is equipped with drawers, pos. 8, which allows you to turn an uncomfortable nook into a cozy alcove and save space for a linen closet.

Podium

The podium for the boxes is assembled on the corners with box-shaped hardware from a bar from 40x40, on the left in fig. The maximum size of the horizontal mesh is 400x600 mm. It makes no sense to increase the thickness of the timber over 50x50, because. the maximum allowable mesh size at the same time grows much more slowly than the cross section of the tree, which increases the consumption of material without adding much strength to the podium.

You can’t make a podium for a pull-out bed box-shaped, except that the bed is floating, complex and not very reliable. In this case, the upper crate above the bed niche is assembled with a mesh of up to 300x400 mm, and the cross braces are placed offset, on the right in the figure, or in a checkerboard pattern.

Bed to him

The retractable bed to the podium is the same frame from the side rails of reduced height. In order to take on loads that are unnecessary for weak boards, the support belt is made reinforced, and the corners of its beams are necessarily connected by a half-tree tie-in on glue and reinforced with pairs of diagonally screwed self-tapping screws, see fig; dimensions - in cm. Glue - PVA or Express (liquid nails); fastening with hardware is carried out within no more than 5% of the time of complete curing of the adhesive.

Note: This bed rolls out. To roll out along, it is enough to turn the clip with rollers 90 degrees horizontally.

Design examples

with drawers

From a hygienic point of view, under-bed linen boxes are not the best option: things are constantly in stagnant air. In addition, over 90% of room dust is held in a layer of about 20 cm above the floor; this, by the way, is also a weighty argument against pull-out beds. But sometimes there is nowhere to go, there is simply no place for a linen closet or a stationary bed.

The design of beds with boxes faces a number of difficulties, mainly due to the direct interaction of the partitions with the floor. There is no way to fully account for the mechanics of either gender! You can get around them by constructing a bed in an unconventional way for furniture, namely, by calculating the spar similarly to the backbone frame of a truck, in the form of a powerful beam that can take any load and effectively dampen vibrations. The loads will be transferred to it by all the elements “splayed out” to the sides. In the Tatras, this approach made it possible to use independent wheel suspension, which ensured excellent ride and cross-country ability, and a bed with boxes on a spinal frame will make it possible to vary their size, number and design of the bed as you like, without thinking about overall strength and creaks - the backbone will blow everything away .

Note: in production, spinal load-bearing structures are labor-intensive, material-intensive, not technologically advanced and do not forgive design errors. But this is not a hindrance to a stubborn and skillful do-it-yourselfer.

The spine of the bed is made, of course, not from a large diameter steel pipe, as in a dump truck, but from a pair of 100x50 bars. The remaining parts of the carrier system, including inserts between the beams (longitudinals) of the ridge, are made of 100x100 timber. Backs and sides, which in this case are just decorative overlays - any, even cardboard ones. Dimensions can be taken from the figure, knowing that they are multiples of 10 mm and the overall length of the bed (including the thickness of the backs) is 2550 mm. Too much? The bed on the ridge can be increased to 3x2 m. Somersault as you like, there was only enough living space.

The beams of the supporting frame at the corners must cut into half a tree on glue and dowels - wedged through bosses, see Fig. Dowel wedges are placed crosswise, because. they should be perpendicular to the fibers of the wood of the part to be joined. If the bars are thin-layer hardwood, the wedges are placed diagonally across, as in fig. The frame with the ridge is attached to the legs with self-tapping screws with an envelope. The contact of the partitions with the floor does not matter, the ridge will absorb the vibrations. You can partition to the floor and not bring.

If you do not trust innovations, then a bed with drawers will have to be assembled on a rather complex frame that requires no less material. Dimensions and scheme - on the next. rice. This differs from standard designs in that it allows you to lay transverse lamellas, incl. bent.

About the mattress holders

What is it there in the ridge - "the location of the mattress clamps"? These are round or square bosses so that the mattress, fidgeting on the bed, does not rub, see fig. on right. Wooden mattresses on glue and nails go to the frame of the mattress on a rigid basis, felt ones can be sewn to the soft one. The size and location of the mattress clamps are chosen so that they fit into the grooves or holes of the bed and do not allow the mattress to move.

From chipboard

Chipboard in inexpensive beds is widely used, but almost always in combination with wood. The fact is that chipboard, which is generally strong, “does not like” concentrated loads very much, it is fragile at the ends, ribs and edges, and in small details it often delaminates already during sawing; chipboard bears alternating loads even worse than plywood. Therefore, in beds made of chipboard, at least the legs, the supporting belt of the bed and the spar are made of wood; drawings of this type of bed in fig. Please note that the crossbars from a 40x40 bar in this case are not lamellas, but ribs! There is no box on the drawing!

However, beds made entirely of chipboard are also found: a panel structure on a supporting cross, see fig. on right. There are no small details, the cross with overlays dampens the dynamics both from the bed and from the floor. Thickness of plates from 30 mm. All edges are edged with a piping for T-profile worktops. It is advisable to use a propylene edge, then you can do without plastic legs if the floor is even. You can put boxes. The disadvantage, in addition to those common for chipboard, is that if the bed is against the wall, half of the under-bed space disappears, because. in no case should the symmetry of the cross be violated.

A pallet from under building materials is good as the basis of a bed, not only and not so much because it is cheap. Firstly, pallets are made from a fairly high-quality wood, and until they are worn out for sale, it will shrink and dry out no worse than a selected array. Secondly, the pallet experiences the same loads as the bed, but stronger: they carry bricks over potholes on it! So about the strength of the pallet bed, you can, as they say, not hurt your head, just sand them, collect on long self-tapping screws how much and how you need, and finish.

The dimensions of a standard pallet are 100x80 cm, so from 4 you get just a double bed, pos. 1 in fig. The extra half of the boards is enough for fastening, a headboard, and even a bedside table; the rest will play the dynamics just in moderation. Under a soft mattress, it is better to cut out the bars inside to get a bed with a recess, pos. 2; scraps will go to the legs or other crafts, the tree is good. And from the pallets you can, without further ado, dial any podium, pos. 3.

Finally, the dimensions and shape of the pallet roughly correspond to one of the structural modules of the furniture. Whether fans know it or not, homemade pallet furniture is innumerable. Unfortunately, at least for a cursory review of it, a separate publication is needed.

Back to bed

A homemade headboard has an independent meaning: there are much cheaper mattress beds without headboards on sale; their frame is designed for additional loads. Fans make a variety of headboards on their own. Traditional rigid wooden, pos. 1 in Fig., is not bad and hygienic, but it is not always pleasant to feel it with the back of the head or the top of the head. You can give the back some elasticity by performing it on a woven veneer frame, pos. 2, or, in a rustic version, from a wicker, but the wicker back does not fit into every interior and is still not soft. Patchwork back, pos. 3 is quite soft, its aesthetics are determined by the fabric used and can therefore be adapted to any room design. Patchwork back pads are made on plywood shields of approximately 300x300x (4-6) mm using upholstered headboard technology, see below, but simpler: because. the fabric is stretched evenly, double padding of the edges is not necessary.

However, the best results are given by a classic upholstered headboard. For an amateur who does not know all the intricacies of working with upholstery fabrics, so that the upholstery does not wrinkle later, does not stretch, and the filler does not go astray, it should be done with double stitching along the contour, as in pos. 4. Compare pos. 5 and 6. The latter not only wrinkles unsightly, but will soon be rubbed over the scars. Step by step, the soft headboard is made as follows, see next. rice:

1. Foam rubber with a density of 35 or more is glued to the base, covered with batting (better - synthetic winterizer) and pinned along the edge with a furniture stapler. At the bottom, a strip of pure wood (plywood) with a width of 150 mm or more is left to attach to the bed frame;
2. A decorative fabric is also attached to the bottom with a stapler;
3. Curves are circled with it, attaching a stapler to the inside of the back with an indent from the edge of approx. 10 cm;
4. The corners are rounded with notches. It is better for beginners to do this together: one in front monitors the stretch, and the other forms scars in the back, cuts them and attaches flaps (scallops);
5. Decorative trim along the edge is upholstered with furniture nails;
6. A much better technical and aesthetic effect is given by a special decorative chain - furniture tape;
7. With a home-made thickness gauge from a square and a piece of chalk (option - a remnant), the outline of the second row of upholstery is outlined;
8. The upholstery is fastened with a stapler along the inner contour. it is the inner row that holds the entire skin evenly;
9. A decorative stitch is applied with the same furniture tape or nails.

Homemade exclusive

An inclined, and even more so a curved headboard is not only more convenient, but also an indispensable attribute of luxury beds. Meanwhile, it is easy to make it yourself: from a board 150 mm wide (thickness from 30 mm; for plywood from 10 mm), a headboard comes out with an inclination from the vertical of more than 10 degrees, pos. 1 in Fig., and even more than 20 degrees, pos. 2. From the same blanks, a very beautiful bed with a curved headboard is obtained, only its crate needs to be done more often, but from thinner, 25-30 mm, slats, pos. 3.

The backrest is attached to the frame and / or legs of the bed with corners. Its back side, in order to hide the fasteners and for rigidity, is sewn up with a 4-6 mm fiberboard sheet, the blue dotted line in Fig. If the bed is all in sight, decoration is being carried out on it. Something on the front side, then you can put the same shield on it with soft lining or decor, a red dotted line on pos. 4. Or, by widening the sidewall for strength and abandoning the front crate, sew the back fiberboard from the face and place a completely upholstered headboard in the form of a pillow (pillows) into the resulting pocket.

Note: a curved headboard to maintain the style is better to sheathe fiberboard and front and rear, paint and complement in an oriental way with a mattress / mattresses with tassels.

How about single?

A single bed is about 1.5 times narrower than a double bed. This seriously changes its mechanics with acoustics, so the construction of a single bed is simpler and allows more amateur liberties. There are a wide variety of options for execution, as well as for a children's bed. For example, how to make a single bed over the weekend, the materials for which will take as much as about 1000 rubles, see.

Video: do-it-yourself single bed (under the mattress 190 × 90)

From a bar

A bed entirely made of timber will cost more than the same plank or chipboard, its manufacture will require special tools and a carpentry workshop. If you can do all this, you will end up with a lot of benefits:

• Square and round beams almost do not warp during shrinkage along the length, which facilitates the selection of material.
• It is possible, without fear of loss of strength of the product, to use hidden dowel connections, see fig. on right.
• The bed will give a solid and prestigious look even to a very simple interior, pos. 1 in fig. below.
• The ability to make a bed with floating bedside tables, pos. 2. In amateur conditions, only a massive timber frame will give them reliable support.
• The ability to fully express yourself creatively in any kind of rustic or country design, pos. 3-5.
• And not only in rustic styles: a bed made of scraps of small timber in pos. 6 is laborious, but fits into any interior, and a connoisseur will appreciate it on a par with antiques.

metal in bed

Of bad memory, "soviet" hostel and barracks iron beds with armored mesh, thank God, almost all have sunk into oblivion. Modern metal beds are either piece-handicraft forged at a price of thousands of USD, or their frame is made of a profile pipe with plastic coating, not chilling, not ugly, not traumatic. But the fundamental drawback of metal beds is unavoidable: a complete mismatch in mechanical and temperature characteristics with wood and materials based on it. Therefore, in the current metal beds, wood is used only in the form of decorative overlays.

The second serious drawback of the metal is corrosion, and the third is ductility. That is, the welding seams of steel beds of general consumer segments sometimes crack, and the frame elements bend. In addition to the fixing plates mentioned above, the only case where it is difficult to do without metal in a bed is the frame of the lifting mattress made of metal, see fig. Wooden, no matter how pleased at first the product of its creator, is soon loosened.

All? No, not all.

The world of beds is vast and varied and, unfortunately, it is not possible to cover it in one publication. For example, wardrobe beds, sofas and armchairs you probably know. But did you know that the folding back of a not fully retractable bed can also be a coffee table? And that there are accordion beds that regularly serve as bedside tables in anticipation of a guest in the family? What about beds without a mattress? In an apartment - not in an apartment, but it will come in handy in the country, and savings on a mattress alone are at least 10 thousand rubles. Or, say, a bed made of bamboo. Looks chic in an exclusive interior, see fig. But, at least technologically, it is quite accessible for self-production.

Well, let's hope we get a chance to talk about them and various others, and for you to make the bed of your dreams.

To date, there are a fairly large number of instructions with which you can do. However, in some cases, such a bed can be quite expensive.

A double bed can be made with your own hands from wood, plywood, metal, or even pallets.

You can make a double bed yourself in about 10 days. Such a period is associated with the necessary technological breaks. For the manufacture of the structure will not need to purchase a large amount of materials.

A bed of this type can be made of wood or metal.

metal structure

The base of the metal bed is welded from profile pipes.

Today, chipboard designs are very common, so they do not cause much enthusiasm. Some people wish to make their own bed stronger. In this case, the structure can be made of metal.

In order for the design to have a proportional appearance, you will need to use profile pipes with a section of 20x20 mm. The length can be chosen based on personal preference. Such pipes can be purchased at almost any building supermarket, they are sold in the metal products department. For a fee, you can order cutting into the desired segments. As a support frame, it is best to use a channel with dimensions of 32x65 mm and metal corners of 40x40 mm.

Of the tools you will need the following:

1. Small angle grinder.
2. An ordinary welding machine that runs on 220 V.
3. Cutting disc for working with iron, which corresponds to the size of the grinder.
4. Electrodes 3-4 mm.
5. Clamps for welding.
6. A hammer.
7. Cord.
8. Roulette.

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Double bed dimensions

In order to sleep comfortably, the design should be from 140 to 200 cm wide. The recommended width is 160 cm. The optimal length of the bed is 200 cm. If the height of the sleepers is more than 190 cm, then the length of the structure will need to be made 230 cm.

In this case, a structure will be made for people with a height of 170 cm. It will have dimensions of 200x160 cm. For the appearance, it will be necessary to observe optimal proportions in the process of distributing the load and the gaps between the structural elements. If you need to change the dimensions, then the elements will need to be moved relative to each other by the required distance so that the final look of the bed does not cause dissonance in sensations.

The height of the bed without a mattress is 35 cm, in total with the height of the mattress it will be approximately 55-60 cm. The mattress can be chosen based on personal preferences, because its height may be different. For example, a mattress without a spring can be 16-18 cm high, and designs with a spring can be from 20 to 25 cm. The height of the mattress will not affect the design of the bed.

The headboards of the bed should have optimal proportions. If a mattress with dimensions of 20x200x160 cm is chosen, then the head back should be approximately 102 cm high, and the small back should be 65 cm. Based on this, the required amount of materials is calculated.

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Preparatory work

To make, you will need to purchase the following materials:

1. Profile pipe 20x20 mm.
2. Metal channel 32x65 mm.
3. Metal corner 40x40 mm.
4. Steel strip 2x25 mm.
5. A square made of steel with a section of 10x10 mm.

If you have experience working with metal, then the material can be purchased with the expectation of trimming and fitting. If there is no experience, then you will need to purchase a large amount of metal. The reason for this will be inaccuracies in the process of preparing the elements of the bed. If there is a marriage, then the design will need to be redone.

Materials will be needed in the following quantities:

• pipe with a section of 20x20 mm - 12.5 m;
• steel square 10x10 mm - 14 m;
• steel channel 32x65 mm - 11 m;
• corner made of steel 40x40 mm - 4.5 m;
• a strip of steel 2x25 mm - 4.5 m;
• strip of steel 4x20 mm - 6 m.

Thrust bearings and plugs of the upper part of the structure will be made from the remnants of a strip of steel.

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Sequencing

Connecting knot in the head and foot back.

First of all, you need to make templates for all elements. They can be made from prepared materials or from wooden blocks. Next, according to the templates, you need to cut the required number of bed components. Width and height have typical dimensions, so you will need to work exclusively along the length.

After the elements are prepared and measured for accuracy, the components can be welded. Each drain must be connected at a right angle and secured with a clamp for welding so that the metal does not lead during the cooling process. It is necessary to ensure that the diagonals in the resulting rectangles coincide with an accuracy of 1 mm. All work must be done slowly, it is necessary to work thoughtfully and with a deep analysis of the result at all seams.

After the elements are connected by welding, it will be necessary to beat off the slag from the seams, and then grind all the joints, removing metal irregularities with a grinding machine. Next comes the painting. After finishing painting, the feeling of a seamless surface should be created to the touch.

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Mounting brackets

When all the elements are ready, it is necessary to make brackets for fixing the frames from the remains of the channel. To do this, use an angle grinder.

After the brackets are ready, they will need to be fixed to the backs of the structure, welding along the entire length with a single seam. These elements will be heavily loaded, so you need to make a similar connection.

After making the backrest, you should proceed to the creation of two frames. The sequence of work will be the same: the structures are connected at a right angle and fixed with clamps, after which the diagonal is checked. At the end, you need to weld the structure at the joints.

The easiest way is to combine two store-bought beds. To do this, remove the wheels from the beds. On the legs of the upper bed and on the back of the lower bed, a step is made, as shown in Fig. 1. For stability, four pads are made from a steel strip, fastened with screws to the legs of the beds at the place of their joining. A ladder is hung on the top bed.

For older children, they replace the mattress frame, remove the side rails, and instead put panels of boards up to two meters long connecting the two headboards. Boards are fastened with screws. If the child sleeping on the top bed is restless, you can fix an additional rail on the outside at a height of 150-200 mm above the side of the bed.

The ladder is made of wood, usually from a bar of 20-40 mm. For racks, two bars 1.5 m long are cut off, for steps - bars of 400 mm each. Step step - no more than 250 mm. The steps are attached to the racks using steel corners 30X30 mm, in which holes for screws are drilled. To hang the ladder, hooks are made from a steel strip and fastened with screws to the upper end of the ladder (Fig. 2).

Furniture prices are now “biting”, so we suggest you make a bunk bed yourself. For it, you will need boards 15 mm thick, plywood - 10-12 mm, or just chipboard waste. You determine the dimensions of the bed yourself, depending on the place in the room, in fig. 3 shows only the main dimensions. If necessary, this bed can be easily divided into two.

First saw the blanks of racks and end panels. In these details, make grooves for docking. The side panels of the bed are up to 2 meters long. If boards of this length are not available, the side panels of the beds can be made into pieces, as shown in fig. four.

Wrap the docking points with 1-2 mm thick duralumin or a brass strip that fits into the lock. Additional panels can increase the height of the sides of the beds above the mattress.

Paint the bed with enamel paint or cover it with stain and furniture varnish. It would be nice to paint it with several colors - the bed will look "more fun". Suitable and self-adhesive film or wallpaper.

Start assembling the structure from the bottom, all panels and legs are connected to each other on specially sawn grooves. The mattress slab rests in the lower tier on plug-in legs, and in the upper tier - on metal corners attached with screws to the side and end plates of the panels. Install the plates in the assembled frame of the bunk bed. Put mattresses made of synthetic winterizer, cotton wool, dry grass on them. Under the bed, we recommend placing two drawers for bedding, their dimensions are shown in fig. 5. Cover the bottom of the boxes with hardboard or plywood, attach wheels from broken plastic toys to them.

To assemble such a bed, neither glue nor nails are needed, only a hammer and a screwdriver.

If there is high-quality lumber or laminated chipboard sheets in the household, it is much cheaper to assemble a wooden bed with your own hands than to buy a finished product in a furniture store. We bring to your attention several different projects and instructions for manufacturing.

Design options - drawings and diagrams

For a skilled owner, the process of assembling a bed will not be a particular problem. Regardless of the type of product, the design is a power frame based on legs and equipped with restrictive elements - a headboard and a backrest. The mattress is supported by transverse slats - slats.

Note. If necessary, the bed can be supplemented with drawers, a lifting mechanism and side restraints.

There are several bed options available for making at home:

• classic single;
• double;
• bunk;
• variety of cots.

The most popular option is a soft double bed. Even a simple factory product assembled from chipboard costs decent money. On your own, you can build a more reliable and cheaper wood structure shown in the drawing.

The budget version of a double bed, made of 16 mm thick laminated chipboard, is shown in the following diagram. Chipboards in this design simultaneously play the role of legs, backs and stiffeners. The mattress pallet does not have to be made of chipboard, boards are also suitable.

Advice. Before you make a bed with your own hands, clearly determine the size. It is better to be guided by the mattress that you are going to buy. The minimum dimensions of a bed are 190 x 150 cm.

The design of a single bed, assembled from solid wood, is similar to a double bed, only smaller in size. The product consists of a frame and two backs with legs, an orthopedic mattress is placed on transverse slats, as shown in the sketch.

To save space in a small room, a bunk bed made of wood, shown below in the drawing, will help. Its base is 4 racks made of timber, connected by two boxes and additional stiffeners. The structure can be assembled from chipboard, but the material consumption will be too large, since a solid back wall from a single sheet is needed.

Assembling a double bed

The easiest and cheapest way to make bedroom furniture is wood - the material is easy to process and decorate in a style that matches the design of the room. If you are an experienced craftsman who constantly works with metal, you can make the version with forged products shown in the photo.

We propose to assemble a simple wooden bed designed for two adults. Dimensions - 220 x 180 cm, internal dimensions for a high spring mattress - 2100 x 1700 mm. The design of the headboard is arbitrary, it is not necessary to repeat the decor shown in the photo.

Advice. It is also not necessary to repeat our instructions exactly. Choose the dimensions individually and sketch your own drawing according to your wishes. Keep in mind one subtlety: if you design the structure too low (or without legs), then it will not be easy to clean dust under it.

We prepare materials

To assemble a box with a pallet, which plays the role of a frame, you will need the following materials:

• 15 blanks 220 cm long from dried timber 5 x 5 cm;
• 20 two-meter boards with a section of 120 x 20 mm;
• furniture glue (PVA is also suitable);
• wood screws with zinc coating 3.5 x 40 and 3.5 x 65 mm;
• stain, colorless varnish and brush.

Before assembly, surfaces and ends must be carefully sanded.

In addition to the standard carpentry tools, it is advisable to get a grinder, in extreme cases, purchase a nozzle for a drill. Boards and beams should be cut to the specified dimensions and all the front parts of the timber should be sanded in advance.

Procedure

To make a frame from side panels 15 cm high, you need to fasten the bars in 3 pieces, and then connect them using the tongue-and-groove method. The process of making a double bed with your own hands looks like this:

Advice. Place 1-2 additional legs on the central panel to support the middle part of the bed.

When making the back at the head, show your imagination. You can make an unusual carved headrest attached to the wall, or assemble the backrest from sanded boards and varnish it. Master class on self-assembly of a double bed, see the video:

A single bed is made in a similar way, only without a central jumper. There is an alternative: make 2 single beds with separate mattresses - if necessary, they can be moved and get a full double bed.

Soft lining and installation of the lifting mechanism

To make the back of the product comfortable and look like a sofa, you can make it from ordinary chipboard and make soft upholstery. Measure the finished panel and buy the required amount of 10-20 mm thick foam rubber plus upholstery fabric. Sheathing is done like this:

Note. A reception with a constriction will help to ennoble a bed made of chipboard. The assembly technology is simple: the sides and backs are cut out, which are then fastened with corners and screws. The supporting part of the mattress is made of wooden lamellas, as described above.

A folding bed allows you to store bedding, pillows and other things inside the bed. What will need to be done:

To organize an internal cabinet, it is advisable to make a pallet from sheets of plywood or fiberboard attached to the frame elements. How such a bed is made is described in the following video:

Useful and original additions

A folding bed that has to be raised and lowered can be replaced with drawers made from improvised materials - boards, chipboard or plywood. To implement the idea, you need to purchase a special furniture set, including wheels, guides and fasteners.

Production is carried out according to the presented drawing in the following order:

There is a more original solution - installing a homemade bed on a high podium and arranging ordinary opening cabinets under it. For the convenience of lifting, a ladder is attached to the side of the fence, as shown in the diagram.

A transformer bed is an excellent functional solution for a cramped apartment and a country house with small rooms. The essence is as follows: the couch is removed together with the mattress inside the wall chest of drawers or transformed into a cabinet with the help of powerful lifting mechanisms. The task is complicated by the purchase of such devices and proper installation, which is best entrusted to a specialist.

If desired, you can implement a newfangled design refinement - decorate the bed with a canopy. The photo shows an example of a double bed surrounded by high posts, which are united at the top with crossbars. The design is extremely clear - a spatial frame is assembled from the bars, where a translucent fabric is thrown.

Conclusion

The design of a homemade bed can be improved endlessly - make several tiers, attach bedside tables and shelves, change the traditional shape to a round one, and so on. It all depends on the level of your skill, the availability of materials and imagination. An important role is played by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room - it is difficult to place a large bed inside a small room. For such cases, 2-tier beds were invented, whose assembly is the topic of a separate publication.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.