A strong knife with simple tools (from a file). We make a high-quality knife from a saw in two and a half hours What metal is the hobbi caliper made of

From the outside, it seems that making a knife is easy, that it is just a sharpened steel strip and a wooden handle. But when it comes to practice, the picture changes dramatically. The main thing in this process is knowledge and experience. When you know, everything is simple, when there is no experience, everything is difficult.

Recently, I posted a photo on the Internet with seven blades made in one day in a Stakhanov impulse.

Alexander Kudryashov in a comment asked me to tell you how I make smooth and symmetrical descents.

In response, I joked: "It's simple: you take a" magic marker ", draw smooth slopes, pronounce wonderful words, and smooth slopes are ready."

But is it really a joke? A joke, of course, but the truth is somewhere nearby.

Later, I offered to come and see in practice how the correct descents and the whole knife are made. And this proposal was accepted.

According to my idea, Alexander himself had to take part in the manufacture a little: choose a blank for the blade, material for the handle, the preferred length of the blade and handle. Alexander had to leave our experiment with a ready, solid, and most importantly, working knife.

Alexander arrived smartly, in light sand-colored trousers and a coyote-colored fleece jacket, which was completely unsuitable for the upcoming work. I had to give him work pants and a camouflage shirt in case he got dirty. Everything fit perfectly - we are the same size.

In the workshop, work went according to a predetermined plan. The good old mechanical saw from a quick cut was chosen as the material for the blade. Why?

This is a well-known and repeatedly tested steel of industrial hardening. Yes, it is difficult to process, but due to its red resistance (the ability to withstand heat for a long time without reducing hardness), it does not require cooling.

The thickness of the chainsaw is 2 mm, which is enough for most working knife tasks. Knives made from mechsaws are light, hold their sharpening well and, what is important, they are completely legal: the small thickness of the blade dismisses any suspicion of involvement in melee weapons.

In general, there are many grades of high-speed steels, but the manufacturer does not always indicate a specific grade, often limited to the HSS (high speed steel) brand. New saws are rare and more expensive.

For a knife maker, the novelty of a mechsaw does not matter, therefore, for the manufacture of a knife, you can use both a new saw and a well-worked and even broken one. The result will bear little resemblance to the original material. Among the shortcomings, one can note the tendency of steel to chipping under lateral load and its susceptibility to corrosion.

Alexander chose a suitable fast-cut saw blade (HSS made in USSR). I cut off the excess and made the outline of the future knife on the emery, then processed the workpiece with a brushing tool - a rotating steel brush, giving it a noble black sheen, and painted the blade part on both sides with a blue wide marker intended for warehouse work.

Using the paint of the marker with a caliper, I marked out the lines of future descents, paying special attention to the synchronism of their exit to the butt. The resulting lines were circled with a “magic marker” with silver paint, which is nothing more than aluminum powder in a polymer binder.

Why exactly them? Very simple. This paint withstands high temperatures, adheres well to metal and holds firmly. The paints of ordinary colored markers burn out, wear out, and crumble during metal processing. And the silver is holding on. That's all the magic.

I installed the blade on a special device for removing slopes (a cheaper version of the device from Chapay, made independently from a steel corner). I marked with a marker the place where the descents will begin, and fixed it with a hand vise.

I did the rough metal removal with a yellow 3M Cubitron II with P24 grit on a machine with an abrasive belt (on a grinder). For uniformity, I began to remove the metal from the mark with a marker at the future handle and moved to the tip with a uniform, gentle pressure.

At the same time, it is very important to apply the future blade to the tape evenly, in parallel, without distortions. I let Alexander stand at the machine for a while at the initial stage, using special tools. Conclusion of descents is a process that requires experience.

Shortly before reaching the silvery lines of the “magic marker”, I changed the tape to P60 abrasive and began to level the line of descents. I made several movements from the tip to the handle, creating a right angle at the beginning of the descents. Then work began on the risk of descents.

For this, it turned out to be enough work on abrasives P80 and P120. It is unreasonable to use abrasives P180 and finer for very hard high-speed steels. This is not a cubitron II, and abrasives work poorly and for a short time on such hard steels. At the same time, it is important that the blade is finished on the same tape, otherwise the sides will look different.

A quick cut knife does not require constant cooling during processing, and this is one of the pleasant moments in its manufacture. Of course, the knife should not be overheated, because the increased temperature of the steel leads to a quick clogging of the abrasive with sticky metal particles - to salting.

Excessive pressing of the metal to the abrasive is undesirable for the same reason. A tape clogged with metal, which no longer “nibbles”, but “licks”, can be refreshed. To do this, it is necessary to remove the clogged with metal, licked tops of the abrasive and release the grains that lie deeper.

Make it simple. You need to take a quick-cut saw blade and easily, like a file, run it obliquely towards the moving tape at the bend (on the contact roller). This action will not give the abrasive its original aggressiveness, but it will refresh it and allow it to work more.

After the first side was brought to the finishing state, I turned the blade on the fixture to the other side, fixed it and took up the second side. It is always more difficult to make it, because you need it to be the same as the first one.

In addition, the workpiece is less visible, it heats up more, and the contact with the massive device that performs the function of a heat exchanger is no longer so dense ... However, the blade was ready.

On a felt wheel with polishing paste, I corrected traces of metal tint. Once again I want to remind you that it was a high-speed steel, the hardness of which does not suffer from heating.

After marking the locations for the two holes on the shank with a felt-tip pen, I drilled them with a six-millimeter tile drill bit. I must say that on the first of these holes the drill has exhausted its resource (it was about its 50th hole).

Without the slightest upset, I took out another cheap pen drill from the blister, drilled the unfinished first hole and drilled the second in 40 seconds. Then, with a larger diameter drill with a carbide tip, he chamfered the holes.

I cut the blank on a band saw to the given dimensions, attached a shank to it and drilled the first hole in the wooden blank with a regular drill. I inserted a six-millimeter pin into the hole, put a shank hole on it and drilled a second one. I marked with a marker where the edge of the shank would be in the handle, and started marking for the future slot for the shank. The cut under the shank was performed on a band saw.

I know that a particular blade makes a kerf 1.5 mm wide. I needed a cut for a shank 2 mm thick, so I inserted a double-folded sheet of cardboard with a total thickness of 0.5 mm to the left of the workpiece and finished the cut to the required width.

After that, I started shaping the shape of the handle. According to the plan, it was a straight handle of a universal knife, representing an octahedron in cross section. This was not my first knife with an octagonal handle, which looks strict, but has a good grip, is very comfortable and does not turn in the hand.

I did all the work on the grinder using wood tape. I set the necessary edges and started removing the risks with a decrease in the grain of the abrasive. At the end, I manually smoothed everything with an abrasive Scotch Bright, similar to a hard flat washcloth.

And now it's time for installation. Having measured the thickness of the handle at the mounting points, I added 2 millimeters each and cut off pieces of a tube of a given length with a small pipe cutter. The shank of the blade is inserted into the slot of the handle. He walked with an interference fit, so he even had to use a manual rack press (up to 600 kg).

With a press, I gently pressed the tubes into the handle through the shank through and through. Then he went directly to flaring.

He took out a set of shiny balls from bearings of different diameters, put one small ball on the lower platform of the press, and the second on the upper cut of one of the tubes and stretched the edges of the tube. I did the same with the second tube.

I performed this operation with a gradual increase in the diameter of the balls. Now it remained to do the finishing operations of flaring with a jewelry hammer with a polished striker.

A jar of natural beeswax has already warmed up in a water bath. The knife handle went into wax for impregnation and subsequent cooling. Beeswax is a natural food grade polymer. The wood impregnated with it does not accept moisture and does not slip in the hand.

In my kitchen, all the knives are waxed, and nothing is done with them. You can keep the knife in wax in a water bath for as long as you like - at least an hour, at least two, or even five minutes.

It is always good to refresh the wood of a knife handle or butt of a gun from time to time with ballistol or oil - linseed, vegetable. An alternative to hot wax will be natural oils, latex-based compounds, silicone oil, special oils for wood (once sold in Ikea), varnishes.

Each option has its pros and cons. So, the disadvantage of wax is that it is undesirable for knives that were assembled with glue (it usually does not tolerate high temperatures).

Natural oils take a long time to polymerize (forever). Ballistol with regular use gives a nice smooth surface.

Silicone oils do not polymerize, but they fit well into wood and are moisture resistant. Lacquers perform only surface protection. After the wax had cooled, I removed the excess from the handle, polished it on a felt wheel, and then manually with a paper towel.

The last thing left is sharpening. It is impossible to leave the blade simply reduced to zero - it will crumble, and this has been verified. You need to make a small supply.

I made it on Russian diamond bars (in the direction of reducing the grain size), having previously moistened and rubbed them with a bar of soap. Soapy water adheres better to stones and lubricates better.

Finishing without pressing the edge forward I did with soapy water on Green brazilian slate. All! The knife shaves. Taking a test birch log well dried in the workshop (it lay for 5-6 years), I checked the sharpness and durability of the cutting edge, the convenience and controllability of the knife on it with dashing planing.

Bottom line: the knife is inclined to angrily burrow into the tree, cuts cheerfully, is comfortable in the hand, the cut of the tree shines like polished, and the edge is intact and does not shine. In general, the knife can be safely given to work ...

It's nice to see a childish gleam in the eyes of a healthy man looking at a new useful toy that was born under him!

STATE STANDARD OF THE UNION OF THE SSR

calipers

TECHNICAL CONDITIONS

GOST 166-89

(ST SEV 704-77 ¸ ST SEV 707-77; ST SEV 1309-78, ISO 3599-76)

USSR STATE MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE
PRODUCT QUALITY AND STANDARDS

Moscow

STATE STANDARD OF THE UNION OF THE SSR

Validity from 01.01.91

until 01.01.96

Non-compliance with the standard is punishable by law

This standard applies to calipers designed to measure external and internal dimensions up to 2000 mm, as well as special-purpose calipers for measuring grooves on external and internal surfaces, grooves, distances between the axes of small diameter holes and pipe walls. The requirements of this standard are mandatory. (Revised edition, Rev. No. 2).

1. TYPES. MAIN PARAMETERS AND DIMENSIONS

1 - rod; 2 - frame; 3 - clamping element; 4 - nonius; 5 6 - depth gauge; 7 - jaws with edge measuring surfaces for measuring internal dimensions; 8 - sponges with flat measuring surfaces for measuring outer dimensions; 9 - bar scale.

1 - rod; 2 - frame; 3 - clamping element; 4 - nonius; 5 - the working surface of the rod; 6 - depth gauge; 7 - sponges with flat measuring surfaces for measuring outer dimensions; 8 - bar scale.

1 - rod; 2 - frame; 3 - clamping element; 4 - nonius; 5 - the working surface of the rod; 6 - device for fine installation of the frame; 7 - jaws with edge measuring surfaces for measuring outer dimensions; 8 - sponges with flat and cylindrical measuring surfaces for measuring external and internal dimensions, respectively; 9 - bar scale.

(Revised edition, Rev. No. 1).

1 - rod; 2 - frame; 3 - clamping element; 4 - nonius; 5 - the working surface of the rod; 6 - sponges with flat measuring surfaces for measuring outer dimensions; 7 - jaws with cylindrical measuring surfaces for measuring internal dimensions; 8 - bar scale.

(Revised edition, Rev. No. 1). 1.2. The caliper should be made with a vernier reading (ShZ) (Fig. 1 - 4) or with a circular scale reading (ShTsK) (Fig. 5), or with a digital reading device (ShTsTs) (Fig. 6).

1 - circular scale of the reading device; 1 - digital reading device;

2 - rod; 3 - frame; 4 - bar scale. 2 - rod; 3 - frame.

Crap. 5 Damn. 6

Note. Features 1-6 do not define the design of calipers. 1.3. The measurement range, the value of the vernier reading, the division value of the circular scale and the discrete step of the digital reading device of calipers must correspond to those indicated in Table. one .

Table 1

Caliper ShTs-II-250-0.05 GOST 166

The same, vernier caliper type I I with a measuring range of 250 - 630 mm and a vernier reading value of 0.1 mm, accuracy class 1:

Caliper ШЦ-II -250-630-0.1-1 GOST 166

The same, type I caliper with a measuring range of 0 - 150 mm with a division value of the circular scale of 0.02 mm.

Caliper ShTsK-1-150-0.02 GOST 166

The same, type I caliper with a measuring range of 0 - 125 mm with a resolution step of a digital reading device of 0.01 mm:

Caliper ШЦЦ-1-125-0.01 GOST 166

(Changed edition). 1.4. Calipers types II and III, equipped with a marking device, should be equipped with a device for fine setting the frame (Fig. 3). To fine-tune the frame, it is allowed to use a micrometric feed. 1.5. Departure of jaws l and l 2 for measuring external dimensions and departure of jaws l 1 and l 3 for measuring internal dimensions must correspond to those indicated in table. 2 (dev. 1 - 4). (Revised edition, Rev. No. 2).

table 2

2. TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS

Table 3

Table 4

2.11.2. The distance a from the upper edge of the edge of the vernier to the surface of the rod scale should not exceed 0.25 mm for calipers with a reading value of 0.05 and 0.30 mm for calipers with a reading value of 0.1 mm. 2.11.3. The dimensions of the strokes of the scales of the rod and vernier must correspond to those indicated below: the width of the strokes is 0.08 - 0.20 mm; the difference in the width of the strokes within the same scale (for the scale of the rod at a distance of more than 0.3 from the edge of the scale) and the strokes of the scales of the rod and the vernier of one vernier caliper is not more than 0.03 mm when reading on a vernier of 0.05 mm; 0.05 mm with a vernier reading of 0.1 mm. (Revised edition, Rev. No. 2). 2.12. Requirements for the circular scale of the reading device 2.12.1. The length of the scale division must be at least 1 mm. 2.12.2. The width of the scale strokes is 0.15 - 0.25 mm. The difference in the width of the corresponding strokes within the same scale should be no more than 0.05 mm. 2.12.3. The width of the arrow above the scale divisions should be 0.15 - 0.20 mm. The end of the arrow should overlap short strokes by no more than 0.8 of their length. The distance between the end of the hand and the dial should not exceed 0.7 mm for a scale with a division value of not more than 0.05 mm and 1.0 mm with a division value of 0.1 mm. 2.12.4. The reading device must provide the ability to align the arrow with the zero division of the circular scale. 2.13. For calipers with a digital reading device, the height of the digits of the reading device must be at least 4 mm. 2.14. Calipers with a digital reading device can additionally be equipped with an interface for outputting the measurement result to an external device. 2.15. The hardness of the measuring surfaces of calipers must be: made of tool and structural steel - at least 59 HRC e; from high-alloy steel - not less than 51.5 N R C e. Note. For type I calipers with an upper measurement limit of up to 160 mm, made of tool or structural steels, the hardness of the measuring surfaces must be at least 53 N RC e. 2.16. The roughness parameter of flat and cylindrical measuring surfaces of calipers is R a £ 0.32 µm according to GOST 2789-73; measuring surfaces of edge jaws and flat auxiliary measuring surfaces - R a £ 0.63 µm according to GOST 2789-73. (Revised edition, Rev. No. 1). 2.17. The outer surfaces of calipers must be coated or treated in accordance with Table. 5 .

Table 5

3. ACCEPTANCE

4. CONTROL AND TEST METHODS

5 . TRANSPORT AND STORAGE

6. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

7. MANUFACTURER WARRANTY

APPENDIX

Mandatory

LIST OF FUNCTIONS CHARACTERIZING THE DEGREE OF AUTOMATION

INFORMATION DATA

In this tutorial, we will look at how to make a good file knife using simple tools. Such a knife will be very sharp, will keep sharpening for a long time, it will be possible to cut even wire, and it will still remain sharp for a long time.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- an old file;
- wood for the handle.

List of tools:
- epoxy adhesive;
- ;
- vice;
- screwdrivers, awl and other "pickers";
- sandpaper;
- wood impregnation oil;
- paper, pencil, scissors, etc. (for making a template);
- marker;
- heat source for metal processing;
- caliper;
- a set of files;
- clamps;
- a piece of steel plate;
- desirable (not required);
- a good helper in the manufacture of knives is.

Knife making process:

Step one. Choosing the right file
Not every file is suitable for making a quality knife. The thing is that before the files were made from good high-carbon steel entirely. Now manufacturers are trying to save money in every possible way, as a result, softer metal can easily be hidden in the center of a new file than outside, and this is very unpleasant.

You can also check the file with a grinder or sharpener, cut off a little from the file and then try to grind off the central part. In this case, thick sparks should pour, this indicates the presence of carbon.

Even the metal of the file can be scratched both outside and in the center. If the file scratches more easily in the center, then the core is not made of high carbon steel.

However, if you find a file from the times of the USSR, you should not have any problems.

Step two. Knife design
Next, you must come up with the design of your knife, here already proceed from the size of the file that you have selected. The finished design can be downloaded from the Internet, and then printed on a printer and cut with scissors. If you wish, you can use the design that the author came up with or modernize it. There is nothing complicated about this, it's just a creative moment.

The metal must be heated until it becomes uniformly red. You can determine the desired temperature with a permanent magnet, it will not be attracted to steel heated to a “critical” temperature. When you reach the desired value, let the file cool in the air, and preferably with coals.

Step four. Cut out a rough profile
We transfer the knife template to the workpiece. To do this, we attach a paper template to the file and circle it with a marker. To make it easier to see, the author paints everything around the profile with chalk.

Having cut out the rough profile, now refine it. Use metal files, clamp the workpiece in a vise. All this work is not difficult. For finer finishing, use sandpaper.

Step five. We form bevels
Bevels are a very important thing in a knife. What you make them, so the knife will cut. Bevels should have as smooth an angle as possible, then the blade will be thin and the knife will cut well. To make high-quality bevels, first carefully mark everything. Decide on their width and draw a bounding line on both sides.

In addition, you have to draw a centering line that will divide your future blade into two parts. In fact, this line will be the blade. To draw such a line, pick up a drill exactly the same diameter as the thickness of the workpiece. We apply the blade and drill to a flat surface and draw a line.

Step six. Hardening and tempering
The metal needs to be hardened first, but after hardening it will be too brittle and the knife cannot be used. After quenching, the metal must be tempered.

For hardening, we heat the steel until it loses its magnetic properties. The color of the metal must be uniform. Next, we put on good gloves, take the workpiece with claws and lower it into oil, the author used sunflower in a volume of two liters, but the more the better. We wait until the knife has cooled to the desired temperature and take it out.

Step seven. Details for the pen
To attach the handle and decorate it, you will need to make two oval-shaped parts (in the shape of the handle). They can be cut from sheet metal or made from the rest of the file. Drill holes in the center and then bore them with needle files so that the shape and size of the part can be put on the shank. The author's dimensions of the ovals were approximately 26 by 19 mm.

A knife is not just a faithful household helper, but also a real passion for many men. Passion tied at the level of primary instincts. True, the cost of a good branded blade starts at $ 150, and the quality of cheap copies only upsets. But if there is a cottage, a solid blade can be forged by yourself. We tell you how to do it.

The quality of any knife is 90% dependent on the choice of workpiece. The best for such a case are American steel 154-CM and its Japanese counterpart ATS-34. There is, however, still an elite 440C, but it is absolutely for Damascus masters. In country conditions, the above-mentioned samples will be difficult to get. And therefore, having taken the information into account, we are looking for an ordinary Soviet file, you can even pretty used. The U-13 steel used for its production, of course, is susceptible to corrosion (the blade will have to be monitored), but in other respects it is not inferior to expensive tool brands. And most importantly, it will cost you a maximum of one hundred rubles.

Design Choice

For beautiful patterns, go to the market, where you can buy visual copies of the world's best brands for a symbolic price. In addition to their appearance, such trifles have nothing to boast of, but you don’t buy them for the sake of steel, but for the sake of drawing.

Of course, if you are confident in your artistic taste, then you can draw a knife yourself. We advise you to test your strength by making a simple Roselli R-200. With a simple blade design and wide descents, this model will not cause much trouble for a beginner.

Forge

Unfortunately, for most models, the width of the file is too narrow, and you do not need such a thickness of metal. In a word, you can’t do without a forge. To organize it, you will need a forge and an anvil. As the latter, you can use any thick and even metal ingot, for example, a piece of rail. But with the "stove" you have to tinker.

There are many similar gizmos on sale, but they are not cheap - from 80 thousand rubles. Therefore, it is best to make a forge on your own - lay it out of refractory bricks.

Look at the diagram of a classic blacksmith's furnace.

1. Air supply for afterburning gases. You can take any metal tube with a diameter of 1-2 cm.
2. Chimney
3. Opening for material loading
4. Combustion chamber
5. Grate. You can buy ready-made, or you can drill holes in a thick cast-iron skillet.
6. Ash chamber. Plain metal box.
7. Air pipe
8. Window for fuel loading. You can do without it if you wish.

A vacuum cleaner can be used as a compressor, and a kitchen hood is also suitable.

As you can see, nothing complicated!

Forging

Before starting a fire, the file needs to be slightly prepared. Clamp it in a vise and cut off the notches with a grinder, at the same time rid the metal of rust. Fire up the forge and put the blank into the coals, slowly heat it up to 900 ° C. If you do not have a temperature meter, degrees can also be determined by eye, guided by the color of the metal.

The temperature regime in metallurgy is a serious thing, and therefore try to observe it. When the workpiece is heated to the color you need, it is time to knock with a hammer. Take a piece of iron with pliers and carry it to the anvil, where, during the forging process, give the plate the necessary shape and thickness. You still have to grind the metal, which means that it will definitely lose 2-3 millimeters.

Trimming and rough grinding

When you realize that you can’t give the iron a more precise shape, it’s time to pick up the grinder again. Disassemble the purchased Chinese knife and, using it instead of a template, transfer the desired shape to the workpiece. And then cut off with a diamond circle everything that remains behind the marking line.

At the same stage, the workpiece must be ground, achieving the desired wall thickness. Ideal for a grinder or grinder. But if there is time and patience, all the work is done with an ordinary file.

Now about the descents - it is also desirable to perform them even before hardening. In order to properly markup, the masters have their own method. Take a dark-colored marker and draw the blade of the workpiece with it both on one and on the other, at least up to half. Now, picking up a vernier caliper, set the required width of the descent on it and, leading with one sponge along the perimeter of the blade, with the other, draw a trace parallel to the edge on the metal.

And again - it is most convenient to form slopes on a grinding power tool. But remember: descent is not sharpening! The thickness of the blade in the cutting part must not be reduced thinner than two millimeters. Otherwise it will crack when hardened. On the other hand, the same thickness of the metal must be observed along the entire length of the blade, at the same distance from the edge. This is very important for subsequent sharpening.

heat treatment

In order for steel to show its best, it must be properly hardened, and then “released” just as correctly. The simplest processing for U-13 (for other steel grades you need to look for your own recipes) is carried out as follows.

Zone hardening works best, so take a heat-resistant fireplace sealer (available at any hardware store) and apply it to the blade, as shown in the photo.

Thus, you protect the butt of the blade from heat treatment, while maintaining its viscosity. A day later, when the mastic dries, re-ignite the forge and heat the workpiece there to 900 ° C, then lower it into cold water with the tip down. A couple of moments, and hardening is ready. You can scrape off the sealant and make a "vacation".

The easiest way is to “let go” of metal in an ordinary kitchen oven. To do this, we heat it up to 200 ° C and leave the blade there for two and a half hours. Then we turn off the gas and let the metal cool down - always with the oven!

The piece will then look like this.

Grinding

And again we return to the grinder. Install coarse sandpaper (No. 120) on it and once again peel off the blade, saving it from noticeable defects. It should turn out like in the photo.

After that, the metal is brought to the state of a mirror with GOI paste.

And the last step is etching. Just dip the blade into a jar of phosphoric acid solution and let it "buy" there for an hour and a half. The resulting oxide film protects the steel well from corrosion.

Handle manufacturing

The design of the handle, of course, is an individual matter. Some people like plastic, others textolite. We recommend using soft woods such as apple. But before you take on the planer, take care of one more detail - bolsters (a small metal plate that is located between the blade and the handle). Bolsters can be machined from stainless steel or borrowed from a previously disassembled knife. This thing is purely decorative, so you can trust even the Chinese manufacturer.

It is convenient to carry out all rough work on the formation of the handle with the grinder repeatedly mentioned above (it is simply an indispensable tool in the manufacture of knives!).

Of course, final finishing will still have to be done by hand, but against the general background, these are trifles. The main thing to remember is that the “sandpaper” must be gradually changed to a smaller one.

In the final, in order to protect our work, we degrease the tree and immerse it in heated wax for several minutes. This will not only protect the handle from moisture, but also prevent it from slipping in the palm of your hand.

sharpening

And finally sharpening. This is the process that can turn a piece of beautifully crafted steel into a real razor or ruin it forever. Since a lot of sweat has already been shed over the manufacture of the knife, the second option is undesirable. Therefore, we make a reservation - no electric emery is suitable for such a delicate process. Not only can you accidentally cut off too much at high speeds, there is still a risk of overheating the metal at the point of sharpening, making an unplanned vacation.

Professional sharpeners or their homemade or even Chinese counterparts are best suited for forming a cutting edge.

The manufacturer's name is irrelevant. Everything will depend on the bars and your patience.

First of all, fix the blade and set the sharpening angle to 17-20 °. Attach a rough abrasive block to the bar. If you are using diamond sharpeners, it will be "extra extra coarse" or at least "coarse". But in the second case, it will take a little longer to work.

After the knife is fixed and the abrasive is exposed, start sharpening. Drive the block only perpendicular to the cutting edge. Wash the abrasive with soapy water every 15-20 strokes. When you have removed the required thickness of the metal, turn the blade over and continue working on the other side.

After rough sharpening, fine-tuning follows. Again, if you take a diamond, then this is the “extrafine” bar class. If a ceramic stone, then the grain size will be 1000. The tool must move along the blade, that is, perpendicular to the previous sharpening.

Finally, for polishing, use an "extra extra fine" diamond or ceramic with a grit of about eight thousand. There is no point in polishing with a smaller tool. When working, again change the movement of the bar, working it perpendicular to the edge. This moment is very important. Final grinding should never be done along the blade, only across!

OK it's all over Now. The path of turning a file into a knife has been completed. You can try to shave them!