Steam engine model. Steam engine without machines and tools

Have you ever seen how a steam engine works, not on video? Nowadays, finding such a functioning model is not easy. Oil and gas have long supplanted steam to dominate the world of mechanical installations that set machines in motion. However, this craft has not been lost; you can find samples of successfully working engines installed by craftsmen on cars and motorcycles. Home-made samples more often resemble museum exhibits than elegant, concise devices suitable for use, but they work! And people successfully drive steam cars and set in motion various units.

In this edition of the Techno Rebel channel you will see a steam engine with two cylinders. It all started with two pistons and the same number of cylinders.
Having removed all unnecessary, the master increased the piston stroke and working volume. Which resulted in an increase in torque. The most complex part of the project is the crankshaft. It consists of a pipe, which was bored under 3 bearings. 15 and 25 pipes. The pipe is cut down after welding. Prepared the pipe for the piston. After processing, it will become a cylinder or spool.

From the edge, 1 centimeter is left on the pipe so that when the lid is cooked, the metal can be carried to the side. The piston may be stuck. The video shows the completion of the distribution cylinders. One of the holes is plugged, narrowed to a tube of twenty. Steam will come in here. Steam outlet.

How the device works. Steam is supplied to the holes. It is distributed through the pipe, enters 2 cylinders. As the piston moves down, the steam passes through and is forced down under pressure. The piston rises. Blocks the passage. Steam escapes through holes.
Further from 5 minutes

Source: youtube.be/EKdnCHNC0qU

How to make a working model steam engine at home

If you have been interested in model steam engines, you may have already checked them out on the internet, shockingly they are very expensive. If you are not expecting a price range, then you can try to find other options where you can have your own steam engine model. This does not mean that you only need to buy them, since you can make them yourself. You can watch the process of building your own model steam engine at WoodiesTrainShop.com. There's nothing you can't do and find out without doing a bit of your own research.

How to build your own steam engine?

It sounds amazing, but you can actually build a model steam engine from scratch. You can start by building a very simple engine pulling tractor. It can easily carry an adult and it will take you about a hundred hours to complete the construction. The great thing is that it's not that expensive and the process of making it is very simple and all you have to do is drill and work on the turn-mill all day long. You can always check out WoodiesTrainShop.com for more information on how you can start making your own steam engine model.

The rear wheel rims are homemade, the steam engine model is made from gas cylinders, and you can buy ready-made gears as well as drive chains on the market. The simplicity of the steam powered DIY model is what makes it appealing to everyone as it offers you very simple instructions and quick assembly. You don't even need to learn anything technical to be able to do everything yourself. Simple drawings and drawings are enough to help you with your workload from start to finish.

Copying from the forum:
the car is installed on a boat there, which is not necessary for us

BOAT WITH STEAM ENGINE

Case manufacturing
The hull of our boat is cut from dry, soft and light wood: linden, aspen, alder; birch is harder and harder to work with. You can also take spruce or pine, but they are easily pricked, which complicates the work.
Having chosen a log of suitable thickness, sheathe it with an ax and saw off a piece of the required size. The body manufacturing sequence is shown in the figures (see table 33, left, top).
Cut out the deck from a dry board. From above, make the deck slightly convex, like on real ships, so that water that has fallen on it flows overboard. Cut shallow grooves on it with a knife to give the deck surface the appearance of planking.

Boiler construction
Having cut a piece of tin with a size of 80x155 mm, bend the edges about 10 mm wide in opposite directions. After bending the tin into a ring, connect the bent edges into a seam and solder it (see table, middle, right). Bend the workpiece to make an oval, cut two oval bottoms along it and solder them.
Punch two holes in the top of the boiler: one for the water-filling plug, the other for the passage of steam into the steamer. Sukhoparnik - a small round jar made of tin. A small tube soldered from tin comes out of the steamer, on the end of which another rubber tube is pulled, through which steam goes to the cylinder of the steam engine.
The fire chamber is adapted only for an alcohol torch. The bottom of the firebox has a tin bottom with curved edges. The figure shows a pattern of the firebox. Dashed lines show fold lines. It is impossible to solder the firebox; its side walls are fastened with two or three small rivets. The lower edges of the walls are bent outwards and covered by the edges of the tin bottom.
The burner has two cotton wicks and a long funnel-shaped tube soldered from tin. Alcohol can be poured into the burner through this tube without removing the boiler with the firebox from the boat or the burner from the firebox. If the boiler is connected to the cylinder of the steam engine with a rubber tube, the firebox with the boiler can be easily removed from the boat.
If there is no alcohol, you can make a firebox that will work on fine pre-ignited charcoal. Coal is poured into a tin box with a slatted bottom. The box with coal is installed in the firebox. To do this, the boiler will have to be made removable and fixed above the firebox with wire clamps.

Machine making
The model of the boat is equipped with a steam engine with a rocking cylinder. This is a simple yet well-functioning model. How it works is shown in Table 34, top right.
The first position indicates the moment of steam inlet when the hole in the cylinder coincides with the steam inlet. In this position, steam enters the cylinder, presses on the piston and pushes it down. The steam pressure on the piston is transmitted through the connecting rod and crank to the propeller shaft. As the piston moves, the cylinder rotates.
When the piston is a little short of the bottom point, the cylinder will be standing straight, and the steam inlet will stop: the hole in the cylinder no longer matches the inlet hole. But the rotation of the shaft continues, already due to the inertia of the flywheel. The cylinder turns more and more, and as the piston begins to move upwards, the cylinder bore will line up with another outlet. The exhaust steam in the cylinder is pushed out through the outlet.
When the piston rises to its highest position, the cylinder will straighten up again and the outlet will close. At the beginning of the reverse movement of the piston, when it has already begun to descend, the hole in the cylinder will again coincide with the steam inlet, the steam will again burst into the cylinder, the piston will receive a new push, and everything will repeat itself.
Cut the cylinder from a brass, copper or steel tube with a hole diameter of 7-8 mm or from an empty cartridge case of the corresponding diameter. The tube must have smooth inner walls.
Saw out the connecting rod from a brass or iron plate 1.5-2 mm thick, cut out the end without a hole.
Cast the piston from lead directly in the cylinder. The method of casting is exactly the same as for the steam engine described earlier. When the casting lead is melted, take the connecting rod clamped with pliers in one hand, and pour the lead into the cylinder with the other hand. Immediately immerse the tinned end of the connecting rod into the lead that has not yet solidified to a depth marked in advance. It will be firmly soldered into the piston. Make sure that the connecting rod is plunged exactly vertically and into the center of the piston. When the casting has cooled, push the piston with the connecting rod out of the cylinder and carefully clean it.
Cut out the cylinder cover from brass or iron with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.
The steam distribution device of a steam engine with a rocking cylinder consists of two plates: a cylinder steam distribution plate A, which is soldered to the cylinder, and a steam distribution plate B, soldered to the rack (frame). They are best made from brass or copper, and only as a last resort from iron (see table, left, top).
The plates should fit snugly against each other. To do this, they hustle. It is done like this. Take out the so-called test tile or take a small mirror. Cover its surface with a very thin and even layer of black oil paint or soot erased on vegetable oil. The paint is rubbed on the surface of the mirror with your fingers. Place the plate to be scraped on a mirror surface covered with paint, press it with your fingers and move it from side to side along the mirror for a while. Then remove the plate and scrape all the protruding paint-covered places with a special tool - a scraper. A scraper can be made from an old triangular file by sharpening its edges, as shown in the figure. If the metal from which the steam distribution plates are made is soft (brass, copper), then the scraper can be replaced with a penknife.
When all protruding paint-covered places on the plate have been removed, wipe off the remaining paint and place the plate on the test surface again. The paint will now cover a large area of the plate. Very well. Continue scraping until the entire surface of the plate is covered with small, frequent specks of paint. After shaping the steam distribution plates, solder the screw inserted into the hole drilled in the plate to the cylinder plate A. Solder the plate with the screw to the cylinder. Then solder the cylinder cover as well. Solder another plate to the frame of the machine.
Cut the frame out of a brass or iron plate 2-3 mm thick and fasten it to the bottom of the boat with two screws.
Make the propeller shaft from steel wire 3-4 mm thick or from the axis of the “designer” set. The shaft rotates in a tube soldered from tin. Brass or copper washers with holes are soldered to its ends exactly along the shaft. Pour oil into the tube so that water cannot enter the boat even when the upper end of the tube is located below the water level. The propeller shaft tube is fixed in the boat hull with the help of a soldered obliquely round plate. Fill all the cracks around the tube and the mounting plate with molten resin (var) or cover with putty.
The crank is made from a small iron plate and a piece of wire, and is fixed to the end of the shaft by soldering.
Choose a flywheel ready-made or cast from zinc or lead, as for the valve steam engine described earlier. On the table in the circle shows the method of casting in a tin can, and in the rectangle - in a clay mold.
The propeller is cut from thin brass or iron and soldered to the end of the shaft. Bend the blades at an angle of no more than 45° to the propeller axis. With a greater slope, they will not screw into the water, but only scatter it around.

Assembly
When you have made a cylinder with a piston and a connecting rod, a machine frame, a crank and a propeller shaft with a flywheel, you can start marking, and then drilling the inlet and outlet holes of the frame steam distribution plate,
For marking, you must first drill a hole in the cylinder plate with a 1.5 mm drill. This hole, drilled in the center of the top of the plate, should fit into the cylinder as close as possible to the cylinder head (see table 35). Insert a piece of pencil lead into the drilled hole so that it protrudes 0.5 mm from the hole.
Put the cylinder together with the piston and connecting rod in place. On the end of the screw soldered into the cylinder plate, put on the spring and screw on the nut. The cylinder with graphite inserted into the hole will be pressed against the frame plate. If you now rotate the crank, as shown in the table above, the graphite will draw a small arc on the plate, at the ends of which you need to drill a hole. These will be the inlet (left) and outlet (right) ports. Make the inlet slightly smaller than the outlet. If the inlet hole is drilled with a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm, then the outlet can be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. At the end of the marking, remove the cylinder and remove the stylus. Carefully scrape off the burrs left after drilling along the edges of the hole.
If there is no small drill and drill at hand, then, with some patience, holes can be drilled with a drill made from a thick needle. Break off the eye of the needle and stick it halfway into the wooden handle. Sharpen the protruding end of the eye on a hard block, as shown in the circle on the table. By turning the handle with the needle in one direction or the other, you can slowly drill holes. This is especially easy when the plates are made of brass or copper.
The steering wheel is made of tin, thick wire and iron 1 mm thick (see table, right, below). To pour water into the boiler and alcohol into the burner, you need to solder a small funnel.
So that the model does not fall sideways on land, it is installed on a stand - a rack.

Testing and start-up of the machine
After the model is completed, you can start testing the steam engine. Pour the oxen into the cauldron to 3/4 of the height. Insert the wicks into the burner and pour in the alcohol. Lubricate the bearings and friction parts of the machine with liquid machine oil. Wipe the cylinder with a clean cloth or paper and grease it too. If the steam engine is built accurately, the surfaces of the plates are well lapped, the steam inlet and outlet holes are correctly marked and drilled, there are no distortions and the machine rotates easily by the screw, it should immediately go.
When starting the machine, observe the following precautions:
1. Do not unscrew the water filling plug when there is steam in the boiler.
2. Do not make a tight spring and do not tighten it too much with a nut, as this, firstly, increases the friction between the plates and, secondly, there is a risk of the boiler exploding. It must be remembered that if the steam pressure in the boiler is too high, the cylinder plate with a properly selected spring is like a safety valve: it moves away from the frame plate, excess steam escapes, and due to this, the pressure in the boiler is maintained normal all the time.
3. Do not let the steam engine stand for a long time if the water in the boiler is boiling. The resulting steam must be consumed all the time.
4. Don't let all the water in the boiler boil away. If this happens, the boiler will unsolder.
5. Do not fasten the ends of the rubber tube very tightly, which can also be a good safety device against the formation of too much pressure in the boiler. But keep in mind that a thin rubber tube will be inflated by steam pressure. Take a strong ebonite tube, in which electrical wires are sometimes laid, or wrap an ordinary rubber tube with insulating tape,
6. To protect the boiler from rust, fill it with boiled water. To make the water in the boiler boil faster, it is easiest to pour hot water.

Same thing but in pdf:

Often, steam locomotives or Stanley Steamer cars come to mind when you think of "steam engines," but the use of these mechanisms is not limited to transportation. Steam engines, which were first created in a primitive form about two thousand years ago, have become the largest sources of electricity over the past three centuries, and today steam turbines produce about 80 percent of the world's electricity. To better understand the nature of the physical forces behind such a mechanism, we recommend that you make your own steam engine out of ordinary materials using one of the methods suggested here! To get started, go to Step 1.

Steps

Steam engine from a tin can (for children)

Cut off the bottom of the aluminum can at a distance of 6.35 cm. Using metal shears, cut the bottom of the aluminum can evenly to about a third of its height.

Bend and press the bezel with pliers. To avoid sharp edges, bend the rim of the can inward. When performing this action, be careful not to injure yourself.

Press down on the bottom of the jar from the inside to make it flat. Most aluminum beverage cans will have a round base that curves inwards. Flatten the bottom by pressing down on it with your finger or using a small, flat-bottomed glass.

Make two holes in opposite sides of the jar, stepping back 1.3 cm from the top. To make holes, both a paper hole punch and a nail with a hammer are suitable. You will need holes with a diameter of just over three millimeters.

Place a small heating candle in the center of the jar. Crumple up the foil and place it underneath and around the candle so it doesn't move. Such candles usually come in special stands, so the wax should not melt and flow into the aluminum can.

Wind the central part of the copper tube 15-20 cm long around the pencil for 2 or 3 turns to make a coil. The 3 mm tube should bend easily around the pencil. You'll need enough curved tubing to run across the top of the jar, plus an extra 5cm straight on each side.

Insert the ends of the tubes into the holes in the jar. The center of the serpentine should be above the candle wick. It is desirable that the straight sections of the tube on both sides of the can be the same length.

Bend the ends of the pipes with pliers to make a right angle. Bend the straight sections of the tube so that they look in opposite directions from different sides of the can. Then again bend them so that they fall below the base of the jar. When everything is ready, the following should turn out: the serpentine part of the tube is located in the center of the jar above the candle and passes into two inclined "nozzles" looking in opposite directions on both sides of the jar.

Dip the jar in a bowl of water, while the ends of the tube should be immersed. Your "boat" should hold securely on the surface. If the ends of the tube are not submerged enough in the water, try to make the jar a little heavier, but in no case drown it.

Fill the tube with water. The easiest way is to dip one end into the water and pull from the other end like a straw. You can also block one outlet from the tube with your finger, and substitute the other under a stream of water from the tap.

Light a candle. After a while, the water in the tube will heat up and boil. As it turns into steam, it will exit through the "nozzles", causing the entire jar to start spinning in the bowl.

Paint can steam engine (for adults)

Cut a rectangular hole near the base of the 4 liter paint can. Make a 15 x 5 cm horizontal rectangular hole in the side of the jar near the base.
- You need to make sure that this can (and the other used one) contained only latex paint, and also wash it thoroughly with soapy water before use.
Cut a 12 x 24 cm strip of metal mesh. Bend 6 cm along the length from each edge at an angle of 90 o. You will end up with a 12 x 12 cm square "platform" with two 6 cm "legs". Place it in the jar with the "legs" down, aligning it with the edges of the cut hole.

Make a semicircle of holes around the perimeter of the lid. Subsequently, you will burn coal in a can to provide heat to the steam engine. With a lack of oxygen, coal will burn poorly. In order for the jar to have the necessary ventilation, drill or punch several holes in the lid that form a semicircle along the edges.
- Ideally, the diameter of the ventilation holes should be about 1 cm.
Make a coil out of a copper tube. Take about 6 m of a soft copper tube with a diameter of 6 mm and measure 30 cm from one end. Starting from this point, make five turns with a diameter of 12 cm. Bend the remaining length of the pipe into 15 turns of 8 cm in diameter. You should have about 20 cm left .

Pass both ends of the coil through the vent holes in the cover. Bend both ends of the coil so that they are pointing up and pass both through one of the holes in the cover. If the length of the pipe is not enough, then you will need to slightly unbend one of the turns.

Place the serpentine and charcoal in the jar. Place the serpentine on the mesh platform. Fill the space around and inside the coil with charcoal. Close the lid tightly.

Drill holes for the tube in the smaller jar. Drill a hole with a diameter of 1 cm in the center of the lid of a liter jar. Drill two holes with a diameter of 1 cm on the side of the jar - one near the base of the jar, and the second above it near the lid.

Insert the sealed plastic tube into the side holes of the smaller jar. Using the ends of the copper tube, make holes in the center of the two plugs. Insert a rigid plastic tube 25 cm long into one plug, and the same tube 10 cm long into the other plug. They should sit tightly in the plugs and look out a little. Insert the cork with the longer tube into the bottom hole of the smaller jar and the cork with the shorter tube into the top hole. Secure the tubing to each plug with clamps.

Connect the tube of the larger jar to the tube of the smaller jar. Place the smaller jar on top of the larger jar with the stopper tube facing away from the larger jar's vents. Using metal tape, secure the tube from the bottom plug to the tube coming out of the bottom of the copper coil. Then, similarly fasten the tube from the top plug to the tube coming out of the top of the coil.

Insert the copper tube into the junction box. Use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the center of the round metal electrical box. Fix the clamp under the electrical cable with a retaining ring. Insert 15 cm of 1.3 cm copper tubing into the cable tie so that the tubing protrudes a few centimeters below the hole in the box. Blunt the edges of this end inward with a hammer. Insert this end of the tube into the hole in the lid of the smaller jar.

Insert the skewer into the dowel. Take an ordinary wooden BBQ skewer and insert it into one end of a 1.5 cm long, 0.95 cm diameter hollow wooden dowel.
- During the operation of our engine, the skewer and dowel will act as a "piston". To better see the piston movement, you can attach a small paper "flag" to it.
Prepare the engine for work. Remove the junction box from the smaller top can and fill the top can with water, allowing it to overflow into the copper coil until the can is 2/3 full of water. Check for leaks at all connections. Fasten the jar lids tightly by tapping them with a hammer. Put the junction box back in place over the smaller top jar.
Start the engine! Crumple up pieces of newspaper and place them in the space under the net at the bottom of the engine. Once the charcoal has ignited, let it burn for about 20-30 minutes. As the water in the coil heats up, steam will begin to accumulate in the upper bank. When the steam reaches enough pressure, it will push the dowel and skewer up. After the pressure is released, the piston will move down under the force of gravity. If necessary, cut off part of the skewer to reduce the weight of the piston - the lighter it is, the more often it will "float". Try to make a skewer of such weight that the piston "walks" at a constant pace.
- You can speed up the burning process by increasing the flow of air into the vents with a hair dryer.
Stay safe. We believe it goes without saying that care must be taken when working and handling a homemade steam engine. Never run it indoors. Never run it near flammable materials such as dry leaves or overhanging tree branches. Operate the engine only on a solid, non-combustible surface such as concrete. If you are working with children or teenagers, they should not be left unattended. Children and teenagers must not approach the engine when charcoal is burning in it. If you do not know the temperature of the engine, then assume that it is so hot that it should not be touched.
- Make sure steam can come out of the top "boiler". If for any reason the piston gets stuck, pressure can build up inside the smaller can. In the worst case scenario, the bank may explode, which very dangerous.

Place the steam engine on the plastic boat, dipping both ends into the water to make a steam toy. You can cut a simple boat shape out of a plastic soda or bleach bottle to make your toy more "green".

The steam engine began its expansion at the dawn of the 19th century. At that time, both large units intended for industrial use and small steam engines, sometimes performing purely decorative functions, were already being built. These "toys" were purchased mainly by prominent nobles who wanted to please themselves and their children. When steam units became more firmly established in everyday life, decorative steam units were used only in educational institutions as benefits.

Modern steam engines

At the beginning of the 20th century, the popularity of steam generators began to decline. The British firm Mamod remained one of the few companies that continued to produce miniature steam engines. A sample of such technology can be purchased even in our time. However, the cost of such devices exceeds two hundred pounds. Those who like to assemble and manufacture various mechanisms on their own will surely like the idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a steam engine or others on their own.

Assembling a steam engine is quite simple. Under the influence of fire, the boiler with water is heated, the water, under the influence of high temperatures, turns into a gaseous state and pushes out the piston. The flywheel connected to the piston will rotate as long as there is water in the container. This is the standard scheme of a steam engine. You can make models with completely different configurations. Let's move from theory to practice. This article is devoted to how to make a steam engine with your own hands.

Method one

Let's start the process of manufacturing the simplest version of a heat engine. To do this, we do not need complex drawings and special skills. So, let's take a simple aluminum can, cut off the bottom third of it. The resulting sharp edges of the can must be bent inward with pliers. This must be done very carefully so as not to cut yourself. Since most aluminum cans have a slightly concave bottom, it needs to be leveled. To do this, simply press the bottom with your finger to a hard surface.

In the resulting glass, at a distance of 1.5 cm from the upper edge, two holes must be made opposite each other. It is necessary to make holes with a diameter of at least 3 mm. For this purpose, a regular hole punch is perfect. Place a candle at the bottom of the jar. Now you need to take the usual food foil, wrinkle it and wrap our mini burner. Then you need to take a piece of hollow copper tube 15-20 cm long. This will be the main mechanism of the engine, which will set the entire structure in motion. The central part of the tube is wrapped around the pencil two or three times in such a way that a spiral is obtained.

Further, this element must be placed in such a way that the curved section is directly above the candle wick. To do this, you can give the tube the shape of the letter M. The sections of the pipe that go down are brought out through specially made holes. As a result, we obtain a rigid fixation of the tube over the wick. The edges of the tube act as a kind of nozzles. In order for the whole structure to rotate, it is necessary to bend the opposite ends of the M-shaped element in different directions at a right angle.

Our steam engine is ready. To start it, the jar is placed in a container of water. It is necessary that the edges of the tube are above the surface of the water. If the nozzles are not long enough, a small weight can be placed on the bottom of the can. However, you must be careful when doing this, otherwise you risk sinking the engine. We lower one end of the tube into the water, and with the other we draw in air and lower the jar into the water. The tube will fill with water. Now you can light the fuse. Some time later, the water that is in the spiral will stop into steam, which will fly out of the nozzles under pressure. The jar will begin to rotate quickly enough in the container.

Method two

The proposed design is somewhat more complicated than the first version of the engine. First of all, to create such a device, we need a paint can. Make sure it's clean enough. At a distance of 2 cm from the bottom, we cut out a rectangle on the wall, the dimensions of which are 5x15 cm. The long side of the rectangle is placed parallel to the bottom.

From a metal mesh, you need to cut a piece measuring 24X12 cm. From both ends, measure 6 cm from the long side of the piece. These sections must be bent at a right angle. As a result, we should get a small platform table with legs, 6 cm long. The resulting structure must be installed on the bottom of the jar. Several holes are made around the entire perimeter of the lid. You need to place them in the form of a semicircle only along one half of the lid. This is necessary to ensure ventilation: the steam engine will not work if the source of the fire is not provided with air.

For the manufacture of the main element of the engine, we need a copper tube. We bend it in the form of a spiral. We retreat 30 cm from one end of the tube. From this point we make five turns of the spiral, the diameter of each turn should be 12 cm. The rest of the tube is bent in the form of 15 rings, the diameter of which is 8 cm.

About 20 cm should remain at the opposite end of the tube. Both outlets of the tube are passed through the ventilation holes made in the lid of the jar. Coal is placed on a pre-installed platform. The spiral should be placed directly above the platform. Charcoal must be spread out neatly between the turns of the spiral. Now you can close the jar. As a result, we got a firebox, which will set our steam engine in motion.