My old oven Building a Russian stove with your own hands: theory and practice Ways to remake old stoves in the house

Building a stove in a private house is a responsible and skill-requiring undertaking, which is recommended to be carried out under the guidance of an experienced stove-maker. Only he knows how to build a Russian stove: choose the right masonry scheme, choose a brick, prepare a mortar.

Even small miscalculations in order can turn into a disastrous result, so you need to follow the rules of work and regulatory requirements in construction.

Russian stoves may differ in size, shape and design features. According to one of the definitions, these are heating and cooking facilities with 2 fireboxes, designed, in addition to heating functions, to cook typical dishes and bake bread.

The process of burning firewood in the main firebox occurs as follows: the gases generated during the combustion of logs enter the 1st section of the sub-hearth chamber, then through special openings - podverki enter the 2nd section. After that, they move to the upper cooking chamber, from where to the collection channel and into the pipe.

When burning wood in a small firebox, the gases from combustion first enter the main firebox, from it into the pipe. Here you can use not only dry logs, but also bark, wood chips, branches and other waste.

The Russian stove has a lot of advantages, but it has one noticeable drawback: heat is released at the level of the hearth, that is, at a distance of about 0.9 m from the floor, which prevents the lower part of the room from heating

The basis for the construction is the foundation, usually 0.1 m larger than the size of the lower part of the Russian stove. Here, below, there is an under-furnace - free space for storing poker, tongs, spatulas and other equipment.

5 row differs in the installation of a grate, which is necessary to remove ash from the cooking furnace into the blower opening. Under should be laid out only from refractory bricks.

Scheme 5 rows and scheme 6-11 rows:

6-11 rows laid out according to one scheme with some differences:

6 row - installation of the main door of the furnace,

10 row - installation of a blower door for a small firebox,

11 row - grate for removing ash from a small firebox.

12-17 rows– additional installation work:

12 row - the door of a small firebox,

13th row - a 2-burner cooking stove made of cast iron (0.71 * 0.41 m), material - refractory bricks and steel strips for reinforcement. After that, arched openings of the inner and then the outer cooking chambers are laid out,

15 row - refractory bricks are placed on edge, a door for the cooking chamber (0.45 * 0.45 with a latch) is installed, the rest of the bricks are laid flat, interspersed with steel strips.

17 row - laid out of bricks laid flat, then 5 rows - a branch pipe, while a sheet of asbestos is laid between the last row and the ceiling.

Row charts from 12 to 17 (3-3), from 17 to 22 (4-4), from 22 to 27 (5-5):

A pipe laid out in 5 bricks (flat position) passes above the main structure of the furnace. For strength, it is connected in a dressing. Thus, it turns out 32 rows.

Stove with hot water boiler and stove bench

In addition to the simplest option with two fireboxes, they build complex Russian stoves with a stove bench, a boiler for heating water, with a firebox or a fireplace with their own hands. Consider the order of popular solutions that can be applied for self-construction.

Ordering greatly simplifies the laying, since the graphic image and description of each row shows exactly how the previous row differs from the next, what elements are needed at all stages.

Consider schemes for construction Russian oven with a boiler created in a computer program.

1 row sets the location of the entire structure, it is made solid from refractory bricks laid flat.

In terms of the complexity of construction, the classic Russian stove surpasses brick heaters of other designs, so without skills and practice it will not work to put it together with your own hands. The cost of construction is not inspiring either, because even a modern model of a hearth mini-stove will cost about 800 pieces. quality bricks. But due to their high efficiency (more than 60% efficiency) and heat capacity, these structures remain attractive to many homeowners. We also decided not to ignore them and give you a detailed description of the laying of a simple version of the stove, equipped with a stove bench.

We study the device and the principle of operation

At the moment, the traditional Russian stove has undergone many improvements. There were options for heaters with a fireplace, a hob and an oven, as well as outdoor complexes - barbecues, built under sheds or in large gazebos. But the basis for all these structures is an old hearth stove with a chimney extended to the front. Its device is shown in detail in the diagram:

Reference. The approximate dimensions of the structure, most often erected in ancient Russia, are 3 x 2 x 2.5 arshins or 2130 x 1420 x 1780 mm. The last number indicates the height to the top of the couch.

We list the design features:

1. The building rests on the foundation and guardianship - 4 walls with a cavity inside for storing household equipment or a portion of firewood - under the stove (otherwise - under the fire). Previously, the base was made of wood, now it is built of brick.
2. The body of the furnace consists of two compartments. The front one - a zagnetok - is a pre-furnace surface closed by walls, ending at the top with a chimney. The back part is an oblong furnace with an inclined hearth and a semicircular vault. The latter also leans towards the mouth at a certain angle.
3. The cavities between the outer walls and the crucible are filled with clean sand or a clay-sand mixture. The overlap above the top backfill plays the role of a couch.
4. In front and on the sides of the heater there are several small niches - stoves.
5. In the simplest version, the chimney is equipped with an inspection door and a damper (the old name is a view).

The movement of gases and heat in the firebox

The principle that the Russian stove uses when working is quite simple and at the same time effective. To the firewood burned in the crucible, air enters through the mouth and the opening of the firebox, and the flow spreads along the lower part of the hearth, closer to the hearth. Lighter products of combustion move towards it along the upper zone, leaving the mouth into the smoke channel. How this happens is clearly shown in the figure above.

An important point. Efficient heating of heat-intensive walls and sand filling is achieved due to the inclination of the vaults and the hearth. Hot air cannot escape until it cools and becomes heavier. This principle is used in modern bell-type furnaces.

After the flame dies out, thick walls return heat to the room and the furnace for a long time, where you can make delicious pastries, cook a variety of dishes or bake bread according to a homemade recipe. For a detailed review, see the video:

We spread the Russian stove with a stove bench

The most difficult moment is the laying of the inclined vaults of the furnace. Therefore, to begin with, we propose to perform a classic design without additional elements - stoves, ovens, and so on. If you successfully build the stove shown in the photo, you will subsequently take on a more complex project at your own discretion.

The drawing below shows in section a relatively small stove measuring 1650 x 1270 x 1540 (couch height). Such a mini-structure will fit both into the interior of a country cottage, and into a small house in the country. Of the additional functions, there is only a stuffing box for heating the samovar and a stove on one of the walls (there can be more of them).

Construction is carried out in several stages:

1. Procurement of building materials.
2. Building a solid foundation.
3. Erection of the furnace body and chimney.
4. Drying and primary heating.

Now let's look at the whole process step by step.

Preparation of materials and fixtures

Before you make a small Russian stove with your own hands, you need to buy the following materials:

• red full-bodied ceramic brick - 1650 pcs.;
• valve having a "live" section of 26 x 24 cm;
• cleaning door;
• dry clay-sand mixture for laying stoves and fireplaces, based on the preparation of 70 buckets of mortar;
• building materials for the foundation - cement M400, sand, roofing material;
• basalt cardboard or felt;
• roofing sheet.

Varieties of figured brick

Advice. You should not experiment and make a solution of clay and sand yourself if you are not an experienced stove-maker. The price of the finished building mixture is not so high as to save on the reliability of the structure.

In addition to the usual brick of standard sizes 25 x 12 x 6.5 cm, there is now a figured stone for sale, designed for laying arched vaults. It is divided into 2 types - a wedge-shaped brick and the so-called heel with one hewn edge, placed at the base of the arch.

To work, you will need the usual masonry tools: a trowel, a pickaxe, a wooden or rubber mallet, as well as a building level, tape measure and plumb line. In addition, before starting work, you need to make a template for laying the arched vault, which is a frame made of timber with circles and plank flooring. What a wooden fixture looks like is shown in the figure below.

Formwork for the formation of brick vaults

Pouring the foundation slab

As you understand, the Russian stove is a rather heavy structure. In our case, its weight will be 1650 x 3.5 = 5.8 tons (calculated by the weight of the brick). The base must be appropriate, therefore, at the construction site, it is necessary to dig a pit with dimensions of 180 x 140 cm, taking into account a protrusion of 50 mm in each direction from the dimensions of the heater. The depth of the pit is determined by the location of stable soil horizons, and even more simply, by the existing foundation of the house.

An important point. It is unacceptable to combine the furnace base with the foundation of the building. Provide a minimum indent of 10 cm, as shown in the photo.

1. The bottom of the pit is compacted, then covered with sand to a height of 100 mm and also compacted.
2. Prepare a very thin solution of cement and clay.
3. When filling the pit with rubble, spill all the cavities with mortar until you reach ground level.
4. Cover the resulting base in 2 layers with roofing material to avoid capillary rise of moisture from the soil. In other words, waterproof.

Serial masonry process

Before starting masonry work, a sheet of metal and basalt cardboard (or felt soaked in liquid clay) should be laid on the finished foundation. Then prepare a bucket of water and mix the solution according to the instructions on the packaging of the building material. If you do not have enough experience in the furnace business, then first read the general masonry recommendations outlined.

Now you can put a solid first row of the Russian stove, focusing on the order. Pay attention to how its corners are laid out of chipped bricks - three-fours. This is necessary to ensure the correct dressing of subsequent rows. Further, the walls of the guardianship and the arched opening of the ward are formed with the help of stones chipped at the corners. To lay out the 5th row, which includes a semicircular arch, install a wooden formwork in the opening. At the same time, the bricks of the two side walls are also cramped for the installation of a template that forms the arch.

On the sixth row, the sidewalls are laid out in half a brick, and the front and rear walls are laid out in a whole brick, after which the arch formwork is placed. A vault of wedge-shaped stones and heels is arranged on it, the body of the furnace is being erected in parallel. After laying the 10th row, the opening is carefully covered with sand.

Advice. If wedge-shaped bricks cannot be purchased, lay a vault of stones of standard sizes, wedging them with small fragments and mortar.

Row No. 11 is made solid in order to block the backfill, and the 12th forms a pod. The bricks that turned out to be the bottom of the firebox (crucible) are not bound by the solution. The next steps are the laying of the furnace walls and the installation of the formwork at the mouth of the fuel chamber.

In the 17th row, you need to cut 8 bricks under the large arch of the crucible, then put the formwork again and lay out the arch. Having reached the 20th row, the sanding operation is repeated.

Solid rows No. 21 and 22 are the basis of the bed. Further, the masonry continues only in the front part, where the cap and the chimney are finally formed.

On the 26th row, a door is placed, and on the 32nd, a valve. Above, the laying of a chimney pipe continues, diverting combustion products to the street.

In order to pass a wooden floor in compliance with fire safety standards, a cutting must be laid out on the chimney. This is an extension of the chimney, increasing the distance from the inner wall of the pipe to the wooden structures. The masonry cutting scheme is shown in order:

Drying and first kindling

If the Russian stove with a stove bench was laid out in compliance with the technology, including soaking bricks, then initially its walls contain a large amount of moisture. Removing it requires time and effort on your part, since you cannot immediately melt the stove to the maximum - the masonry will crack. It is necessary to wait 3 days for the initial drying of the solution, and then proceed in this order:

1. Open the door and make a small fire right on the view, fully opening the damper. So you dry the chimney and remove the airlock, due to which the stove will begin to smoke heavily into the room.
2. Place some brushwood in the crucible and set it on fire. Then keep a small fire going for 2 hours.
3. Repeat the operation daily for 2 weeks, gradually increasing the portions of firewood. A sign of complete drying is the absence of dark stains on the walls of the stove and chimney.

If cracks form in the masonry during the drying process, they must be carefully cut with a knife, and then filled with a thick solution of clay with water. The technology for building a brick heater is clearly demonstrated in the video:

Conclusion

If you have recently begun to master the stove business, our publication on the construction of a Russian stove will be useful in an introductory plan, so that you can imagine the volume and procedure of work. To get the most information, we recommend that you study the popular book by Gennady Fedorov “The Russian Stove”, and also work with an experienced stove-maker as an apprentice. Armed with theoretical and practical knowledge, you will definitely be able to take on such construction.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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Today, the good old stoves are rarely found in private homes, since there are now many other modern systems for heating and cooking.

Fireplaces have become the most popular these days. They are in no way inferior in functionality to simple stoves, but at the same time they have a stylish and beautiful appearance.

You can place a fireplace in absolutely any room - in the bedroom, living room or hall. The fireplace definitely gives the room comfort and makes the atmosphere very sincere, and the heat from the fireplace will easily heat the whole house.

photos

Ways

There are several options for how to make a fireplace out of the stove. The simplest and, perhaps, the most economical is the purchase of a ready-made metal fireplace, in the future it will only need to be beautifully decorated. However, this is still not the best option.

Often in houses of an older building there is already a classic Russian stove. It may no longer be used for its intended purpose. However, from this stove you can create a chic fireplace with your own hands. The most basic thing that will need to be done is to expand the firebox, install doors and replace the chimney.

What you need to consider when preparing for the alteration of the furnace:

1. Assess the condition of the stove and chimney - this directly affects the further safety of their use. In the section, the chimney must be longer than the length of one brick. Good cross-country ability must also be ensured so that the chimney draft is large, this is an important condition for the operation of the fireplace. In most cases, the old chimney must be dismantled, and a new one installed in its place.
2. The size of the firebox of a standard stove is very small, it will not be enough for a fireplace, which means that it will need to be increased. Additionally, you can also install glass doors to be able to cover the firebox. However, this is not required.
3. Carefully evaluate the body of the structure - it must certainly be intact, without cracks and deformations, without fallen bricks. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble it.

Constructions

There are several options for converting old stoves (Russian stove, "potbelly stove") into a fireplace, they all depend on the initial technical condition of the structure.

One of the easiest options is to upgrade and expand the firebox to the desired size, as well as installing a glass "Finnish" door. This option is attractive for its simplicity, since it is not necessary to make cardinal changes to the design, it is enough just to clean the oven properly. If you add a glass door and properly decorate the existing stove, it will turn out to be as similar to a fireplace as possible.

The most expensive and time-consuming modification of the stove to the fireplace is the complete disassembly of the existing structure and the creation of a new one. The stove must be completely dismantled, if necessary, add new sand to the base. Next, make a roofing felt waterproofing flooring and create a new masonry according to one of the existing schemes.

How to build

Converting a stove into a decorative fireplace is not very difficult. This is required mainly in cases where a conventional stove has already been installed in the house, which is no longer used. It will not take much effort and money to invest in creating a modern stylish fireplace from an ordinary stove that can heat the house, and in addition bring comfort to it.

Often, old stoves are located in houses in the kitchen or in the central room. The stove takes up little space, but the appearance leaves much to be desired.

To convert the stove into a modern and stylish fireplace, you will need the following materials: bricks, cement, masonry mortar, a chimney (to replace the old one), facing tiles, a glass door, as well as tools for minor repairs that every owner will certainly find . Next, you will need to draw up a personal drawing of the fireplace being created. You should also inspect the stove, determine the quality of the hull and the condition of the foundation. If all this is in excellent condition, you can continue to work.

Another important requirement is that there should be a small gap between the base for the furnace and the foundation of the house - about twenty-five centimeters, it must be completely covered with sand.

The firebox should be about fifty centimeters deep, and the body inside the stove should consist of refractory bricks.

There has always been a special, reverent attitude towards the Russian stove in our culture. How does it differ from other stove structures, how to fold a real Russian stove - let's try to figure it out.

The Russian stove is a multifunctional device. This includes space heating in the winter cold, hot, very tasty and healthy food cooked according to ancient traditions, and the ability to save crops thanks to drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water.

Of course, it cannot be said that the Russian stove is an ideal device that does not have its own weaknesses. In order to successfully cook food in it, the hostess must have considerable skill - not every modern lady can handle the tong and pots. Every morning the stove needs to be stoked, which means someone needs to chop wood. The disadvantage of the stove as a heating device is that heat is released at a level above the hearth, that is, almost a meter from the floor. Modern types of stoves are designed in such a way that smoke channels are placed in the lower part, and such a stove is heated to its full height. The design may include a cast-iron stove for cooking.

The Russian stove comes in three sizes: 231x160, 213x147 and 178x124 cm. Of course, it is quite possible to deviate from these norms, and the average stove measures approximately 213 cm in length, 142 cm in width and 180 cm in height. This is enough for cooking and heating a room of 30 m 2. It consists of the following elements (starting from the bottom):

1. Underbay (guardianship). It is used for storing and drying firewood.
2. A cold stove is a small recess in which dishes are stored.
3. Shestok - the space in front of the furnace: here you can put a pot pulled out of the furnace.
4. Under - the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope to the mouth, so that it is more convenient to move heavy dishes. It must be carefully sanded.
5. A crucible, or a cooking chamber, is a place where firewood is laid and food is cooked. The vault of the furnace also has a forward slope. Thus, hot gases accumulate under the ceiling of the cooking chamber, well warming up the entire oven and, in particular, the stove bench.
6. Peretrube - a chamber located above the hearth. Above it is a chimney pipe.
7. Samovar (dushnik) - a hole that goes into the chimney and is designed to "connect" the pipe of the samovar. This is an "optional" device, not required for the oven.
8. View - a door that completely covers the chimney. Through it you can get to the damper - a metal plate that moves in a horizontal plane, adjusting the thrust.
9. A bench is a horizontal surface located behind the chimney, above the arch of the furnace. This is a distinctive feature of the Russian stove - you can sleep on it.

1 - underbake; 2 - cold stove; 3 - six; 4 - under; 5 - crucible; 6 - overtube; 7 - stuffing box; 8 - chimney; 9 - view; 10 - damper; 11 - bed

The most common today is an improved Russian stove. Its difference is in the heating of the underfloor part, due to which the heating of the premises becomes more comfortable. Cooking in it is also more convenient, because in the summer, when there is no need to heat the room, such an oven works like a hob. The combustion of fuel takes place in a small firebox, and the exhaust gases go directly into the chimney, while in winter they pass through all channels, heating the furnace body. This happens due to the timely installation and removal of the “summer” furnace damper. In addition, this oven has a hot water tank. Its design was developed by the Russian engineer Iosif Podgorodnikov at the beginning of the last century, and it is called "Teplushka". Its dimensions are 1290x1290x2380 mm. It is these stoves that can most often be found in the homes of rural residents. It can heat a room up to 35 sq. m.

How and from what the Russian stove "Kolkhoznaya Teplushka" is placed

As with any other furnace, refractory bricks are used for laying the furnace part. made from fireclay clay. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Each furnace has metal, more precisely, cast-iron parts - doors and dampers. They also need to be prepared in the right amount. We will need:

1. Doors: furnace 250x205 mm, blower 250x140 - 2 pcs., cleaning 130x140 - 2 pcs., ventilation of any size for the chimney.
2. Grate grate 380x250 mm.
3. Gate valves: 260x260, 180x140, 140x140 mm.
4. View with a diameter of 230 mm.
5. Furnace damper 450x380 mm.
6. Hot water box 500x120x280 mm.
7. Stove with two burners 400x700.
8. Steel strips: 1000x50x12 and 1430x25x2 mm.

For laying some elements - arches and vaults - templates will be required, which should be easily collapsible. They are made from wood and plywood parts.

The subtleties of the preparation of masonry mortar

13-16th rows: the formation of the furnace walls continues. The mouth of the crucible is blocked.

17th row: the gradual narrowing of the arch of the crucible and the expansion of the chimney begin. The rear wall of the furnace is reinforced with a steel tie.

18th row: the arch of the crucible is blocked, the laying of the front wall of the furnace begins, forming the overtube.

For laying the arch of the crucible, it will again be necessary to build a template - formwork. It consists of two rectangular frames, which are supported by plywood parts with a semicircular top - a circle. So that the structure can be disassembled from the outside, the circles are attached to removable pins, and so that it does not fold inward ahead of time, several spacers are inserted between the frames. A flexible flooring is made on top of the circles, assembled from thin boards with the help of ropes or belts.

19th row: the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a coupler, the construction of walls above the crucible continues, forming a space for backfilling.

20th row: the vault of the crucible is covered with sand and compacted well. This is done in order to increase its heat capacity and ensure high-quality baking of bread, etc.

21st row: the stove is closed, the overtube gradually narrows towards the chimney.

22-23rd rows: the laying of the chimney and the narrowing of the chimney continue.

24th row: the overtube is blocked by a ventilation flap.

25-26th rows: the space above the chimney gradually connects to the chimney, narrows.

Further laying is carried out depending on the height of the room: from the outside it narrows with a step in front of the ceiling, after which a pipe is already formed, passing through the floors and the roof. In the space between the ceiling and the roof, as well as above it, the laying is carried out on a cement-sand mortar.

Now the oven is ready. It remains to lay the pipe above the surface of the roof - and you can heat! The native Russian oven will feed you, warm you up, and put you to bed - you know, throw some firewood.

To perform the construction of any brick oven, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions and thoroughly understand the schemes, and even better - to practice with an experienced stove-maker.

A do-it-yourself Russian stove can be under the guidance of a qualified craftsman who will not allow you to make mistakes when laying and reading the order. You need to know that even the only one an incorrectly laid brick can ruin all the work done. There are cases when, due to such an oversight, it was necessary to carry out the laying again, since either a very strong unnecessary draft was created, leading to an overrun of firewood, or it was completely absent.

If, despite all the difficulties and warnings, after all it was decided to try on the role of a stove-maker, without making "fatal" mistakes, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules of work and most seriously approach the choice of high-quality material.

To avoid claims from the fire inspectorate, you need to know that all capitally arranged heating appliances must fully comply with the established parameters (SNiP 41-01-2003).

The basic structure of the Russian stove

A Russian stove can have different models, but it is always a heating and cooking stove, and plus, it always has an oven and at least a small stove bench.

For, to to start working on the construction of such a structure, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the structure of the furnace in order to know the name of each of its departments.

The basic scheme of a traditional Russian stove suggests the following departments:

1 – The podpeche is arranged for drying firewood in reserve. This department is not available in all models of furnaces, as it is not functional enough.

2 – A cold stove is also not always satisfied, but it is typical for the Russian stove. This section is used to store dishes.

3 – Six is ​​a niche in front of the furnace. It is here that a hob is often arranged if the oven has a slightly different structure. If there is no stove, food cooked in the crucible is left in the hearth so that it stays hot longer.

4 – Under — this is the bottom of the crucible or cooking chamber. This furnace element is arranged with a slight slope to the entrance to the chamber, to facilitate the movement of the dishes installed in it. In addition, the surface of this element is recommended to be well polished.

5 – The cooking chamber or crucible, in traditional ovens, firewood is laid in it and heat-resistant dishes are placed in which food is cooked. The vault of the chamber, as well as under, is made with a slight slope towards the entrance. This configuration contributes to the accumulation of hot air under the ceiling, and it warms up the bench and the side walls of the furnace well.

6 – Overtube is a niche over the sixth, over it chimney begins.

7 – A stuffing box or a samovar was arranged earlier and was intended for a pipe from a samovar, which was installed in this hole. The samovar goes into the chimney. Today, this department in the oven is most often not satisfied, since there is no need for it.

8 – Thermal channel above the hearth.

9 – A view is a window with a door that completely covers the chimney. Through this hole they get to the damper, which regulates the thrust, moving horizontally. The damper is a metal plate, well-finished along the edges. Today, this element is often replaced with a special valve.

10 – Location dampers.

11 – The bench is located above the crucible, behind the chimney. During the furnace, this section of the furnace always warms up well. Previously, the couch was used in winter as a bed, so it was arranged large enough so that there was enough space for several people.

In the modernized version of the Russian stove, the order of which will be presented below, some elements of the traditional structure have been replaced. At the same time, the new model has become more functional, as it has a hob and a hot water tank.

The modern version differs from the traditional one also in that it provides for heating the underfloor section - thanks to this, the stove reaches the desired temperature much faster, and more heat enters the rooms from it.

The presence in the design of different departments allows you to heat only the hob for cooking in the summer, without heating everything buildings completely, which contributes to maintaining the desired microclimate in the house, and saving fuel. In winter, when all channels are warming up, the stove becomes multifunctional - it can simultaneously be an oven, stove, heat water and rooms, and also be a warm bed.

Such changes became possible when an additional “summer” damper for the cooking chamber was installed in the design.

The modern version of the stove is able to maintain a comfortable temperature on an area equal to 35 ÷ 40 m².

Getting started on the Russian stove, it is necessary to carry out preparatory activities, which begin with planning the installation site.

Choosing a place for a Russian stove

A very important point is the correct choice of the place where the structure will be erected. If the stove is installed in a wooden building, then a distance of at least 200 mm must be thought out between its walls and the walls of the house. In addition, wooden walls must be secured by fixing non-combustible material on them - most often, asbestos slabs are used for this. This gap will also ensure the free revision of the furnace walls, which must be carried out before the start of each heating season.

If a place is chosen for construction between two rooms, then the opening in the wooden wall must be lined with brickwork, also at least 200 mm thick. Additionally, between the masonry and wood, you can arrange a gasket from the same asbestos sheet.

Masonry tools

Whichever stove model is chosen, for its laying you will need the same tools that you need to prepare in advance.

1 – A trowel or trowel is needed to take the masonry mortar from the container and apply it to the bricks, as well as to clean the masonry from the excess mixture that has come out between the seams.

2 – A pickaxe hammer will be needed for hewing and splitting bricks, since in the process of work it will be necessary to adjust individual masonry elements or give them a certain shape.

3 – Jointing will be needed if the stove will not be finished with decorative tiles, and the masonry should have a perfectly neat appearance. This tool makes horizontal and vertical seams.

4 – A mooring cord is used to control the evenness of the rows, but more often in our time, when laying the walls of furnaces, craftsmen are limited to a building level and a plumb line.

5 – Ordering is a very useful device that will help maintain the verticality of the masonry, as well as maintain the same thickness of the horizontal seams.

6 – The plumb line also measures the verticality of the wall, and its convenience lies in the fact that it is easily and quickly installed in the right place.

7 – The building level is indispensable when working on any masonry, so it should always be at hand, as it checks the evenness of each laid row, when there is still the opportunity to quickly make any changes.

8 – The rule is most often used only once, when leveling the foundation surface.

9 – Spatula and container for mixing the solution.

10 – It is also good to have a measuring bar, which will measure the width of the seams.

Necessary materials

For each model of the furnace, its own amount of materials is purchased, depending on its size. In addition to laying the walls and all its internal sections (in accordance with the order), building materials will also be required for the construction of the foundation, which must be made very reliably, since the Russian stove is a fairly massive structure.

You should not save money by buying cheap low-quality building materials if you want the building to be both respectable in appearance and work effectively for its intended purpose.

Below is a table of the necessary materials for the construction of a Russian stove measuring 1600 mm wide, 2380 mm long and 1900 ÷ 2000 mm high, which is often called "Teplushka".

In addition to materials for laying the furnace, it is necessary to purchase everything necessary for the construction of the foundation - crushed stone, formwork boards, sand, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm and cement, the amount of these materials will depend on the depth and width of the base.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Foundation for a Russian stove

Since a brick Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, the base for it must be strong and reliable. Therefore, a good foundation is required, for which you will have to dig an appropriate foundation pit.

• The size of the pit should exceed the perimeter of the furnace base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction. The depth of the excavation is calculated depending on the density and stability of the soil, but its average value varies between 500 and 700 mm.
• The bottom of the finished pit is covered with sand, which is poured with water and carefully compacted, until the thickness of this waterproofing layer is 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Crushed stone or broken brick is poured onto the sand, which is also compacted. This layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and then it should be leveled with a small a layer of sand also spilled with water and leveled.
• Further, two layers of roofing material are laid on this "pie". Then, a formwork made of boards is installed on the roofing material, and so that the concrete solution monolithically fills the box and does not leak into the gaps between the boards, the walls of the formwork are covered with a dense polyethylene film.
• The solution is made from cement ( one part), sand ( three parts), crushed stone ( five parts) and water, with which the mixture is brought to the required semi-liquid consistency.
• Coarse is poured into the prepared formwork concrete mortar, which made from gravel and cement. The thickness of the primary poured layer should be 200 ÷ 220 mm. To prevent air bubbles from forming in the poured concrete, it is pierced several times with a bayonet shovel, while simultaneously tamping the solution.
• When the solution begins to set, reinforcing bars are installed vertically in it, 50 ÷ 70 mm long above the filled surface.
• Next, the next layer of mortar is poured with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm. After it has set, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the surface, and the formwork is filled to the top with mortar, and then the filled surface is leveled with the rule, but with the established horizon (usually this is the top edge formwork).
• After the concrete has completely hardened and gained the necessary strength, the surface is covered with another layer of roofing material.

Mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for laying the furnace must be elastic and thin, and when dried, it should not crack and seal the seams well. Preparing the right solution is not easy, so every furnace master has his own secrets in the selection of materials and in kneading the mixture.

Today, in specialized stores, you can purchase a ready-made heat-resistant mixture intended for laying furnace walls. However, according to experienced stove-makers, a real traditional clay mortar with the addition of sand is much more preferable than ready-made mixtures made on the basis of cement. This is true for various reasons, one of which is the environmental friendliness of the solution.

The main difficulty in making clay mortar on your own lies in the selection of clay, since this material can be excessively oily or, conversely, lean. For the solution that will be used to build the furnace, you need to choose greasy clay - it is she who will make the mixture elastic, which is very important for obtaining high-quality even and durable seams.

Finding the right proportions for a quality solution is quite difficult, and this process will take some time.

• For this, the purchased clay must be, first of all, carefully cleaned of various debris and foreign inclusions, and then soaked for a day in water.
• Further, its small portions are mixed in different proportions with sand. Cakes one centimeter thick are made from this mass, after which they are left to dry for two or three days, having previously recorded how many parts of clay and sand are in each of the test mixtures.
• After the specified time, it is necessary to check which of the experimental cakes has fewer cracks - this means that the entire solution must be kneaded in precisely such proportions.

Before kneading the entire mass, it is recommended to wipe the soaked clay through a mesh with cells 5 mm in size. This process makes the mass as homogeneous as possible and eliminates problems during masonry.

To lay out the furnace, very often fireclay powder is added instead of sand to the finished clay solution in a ratio of one to three ÷ four, that is, one part of the powder to 3-4 parts of the clay solution.

Prices for refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Russian stove masonry

In order for the stove to be safe for the residents of the house, the masonry must be absolutely airtight, so you can not take low-quality bricks that have cracks. The thickness of the seams between rows should vary between 5 ÷ 8 mm. It is not recommended to coat the walls of the furnace with clay from the inside in order to achieve the desired tightness, since the solution will contribute to the formation of soot deposits and reduce thermal conductivity.

Masonry is carried out in different sections of the furnace in one brick(length brick), half a brick (width brick) and a quarter brick(thickness brick).

Bandaging of the corners of the furnace is done in different ways, depending on the thickness of the masonry, but basic principle is the interweaving of a spoon and a brick poke.

It is recommended to soak the ceramic brick before laying, as in this case it will not absorb water from the mortar, and therefore the brick and mortar will dry evenly, showing high mutual adhesion and giving good wall tightness.

Excess mortar that has come out of the seams must be removed immediately, both outside and inside the masonry - this will ensure accuracy and maximum functionality of the structure.

External walls can be laid out in one or half a brick, while internal walls are usually only half a brick. If the outer walls are thick, then the stove will warm up longer, and a large amount of fuel will be required to heat it, so half a brick is the most optimal an option for laying both internal and external walls of a heating structure.

Find out two different ways to do it in our new article.

Ordinal laying of the stove

The ordering can be called the main instruction for laying the furnace, which shows in detail how each brick in a given row should lie, and which of the additional elements are used at a particular stage. Following exactly this instruction, you can slowly "raise" the design of the furnace yourself. The only thing that is recommended to learn is to properly lay and align the rows of bricks. Such training is best done first on dry bricks, and then with mortar.

Experienced stove-makers advise laying out each of the rows dry - this will allow you to adjust the dimensions of all the bricks to the required ones in this particular row, and not make a mistake in the intricacies of the internal masonry.

• The first row sets the right direction, ensures evenness and accuracy of the entire building, therefore, before starting laying it even dry, it is recommended to draw the exact location of the outer walls of the furnace. This can be done using a long ruler, a corner and chalk.

The bricks of the outer wall are first laid on the marked surface, and then the inner space between them is filled, following the pattern indicated in the order.

• From the second row, the walls of the furnace begin to be laid out, internal channels for cleaning are formed, as well as an ash pan chamber.

• On the third row, two two rings are installed - a blower and a cleaning chamber. The doors are fixed with the help of steel wire, which is screwed to the ears located on the cast-iron doors, and its ends are laid in the seams between the bricks. Before the doors are completely embedded in the wall, they are temporarily supported on both sides with bricks.

• On the fourth row, the masonry covers from above the entrances to all internal channels on the walls of the furnace, forming holes, and completely forms the ceiling of the hearth channel inside the building.

• On the fifth row, a grate for a large firebox is laid, and the inner lining of the firebox is installed without mortar. Very often, fireclay bricks are used for this purpose, cut in two in thickness. On the same row, a small firebox door is installed above the hearth channel.

• The laying of the sixth row includes the installation of a hot water tank. The inner layer of the firebox continues to be laid out with fireclay bricks.

• On the seventh row, a grate is installed in a small firebox and a door on a large firebox. The right wall is pulled together with a steel strip, which fits into the seam and is fixed on the walls with hooks specially arranged at the ends. The back wall of a large firebox is laid out with bricks without mortar. On the outer wall, on the inner masonry, gaps are arranged between the bricks for better heat transfer.

• On the eighth and ninth row, the door of a small firebox is installed and fixed, and the removal of internal furnace channels continues.

• On the tenth row, the bottom of the cooking chamber (crucible) is laid out and the vaults of two fireboxes are combined - small and large. The openings of the channels in the rear of the building, which are designed for the movement of heated air, are left open and discharged into the cooking chamber. Also on this row the hot water tank is blocked.

• On the eleventh row, on the edge of the masonry, above two fireboxes, a prepared metal corner 50 × 50 mm is fixed - it will become a good basis for installing a hob in that place. The remaining open space of a large firebox at the back of the stove is covered with a grate, which is not fixed.

• On the twelfth row, they begin to draw up the front wall of the cooking chamber and the side walls of the hob. On the left side of the stove, a valve is installed horizontally, which will serve as a damper for the cooking chamber. To the left of the valve, the formation of the bottom of the chimney begins. The damper will block the hole between the crucible and the chimney.

• On the thirteenth row, the work proceeds according to the same configuration of the pattern, which is given by the 12th row.

• On the fourteenth row, an entrance to the chimney is formed, which will open when the vertical valve installed for the cooking chamber is shifted. In addition, the walls of the crucible are removed, and a hole is made for the damper.

• On the fifteenth row, the masonry goes to a narrowing, blocking the cooking chamber. At the same time, the chimney is removed.

• The fastening of the side walls with metal strips with stoppers, brought out to the outer sides of the walls, occurs on the sixteenth row, after the laying is carried out, repeating the 15th row.

• On the seventeenth row, several significant actions are performed:

- a screed is installed with a metal strip of the rear wall of the furnace;

- the narrowing of the arch of the cooking chamber continues and a place is arranged for the beginning of the laying of the arch;

- further laying takes place;

- above the niche where the hob is installed, a metal corner and a strip are laid - they will become the basis for laying bricks, which will begin to create a ceiling above the stove.

• On the eighteenth row, a template is installed on the back of the furnace, above the crucible (or a structure made of metal strips in the form of an arch is welded). According to the template, the domed vault of the cooking chamber is laid out. At the same time, bricks are installed on the end part - spoons.

A row of bricks is laid out on the installed metal corner and strip, laying them on the wide part of the brick - the bed.

If a template made of plywood and a bar is chosen to remove the arch, then it must be made collapsible so that it can be easily removed after the mortar that holds the bricks that form the arch has solidified. Two semicircular parts are cut out of plywood, which are fixed with removable pins to two rectangular frames or bars and placed on the bricks.

Approximately the design looks like this.

From above, the semicircles are covered with a flooring of narrow boards, which are assembled together with ropes, i.e. the flooring will be flexible. After the mortar has hardened in the masonry, the supporting bricks are removed, the structure is lowered to the bottom of the cooking chamber, then the flexible flooring is removed, and the pins are pulled out, and then all the elements are removed from the crucible.

• Next, at 21- ohm in a row, the surface covered with sand, together with the walls, is covered with masonry, and in the front part there is a narrowing of the overtube.

• At 22- ohm in a row, the re-pipe is narrowed and a metal element with a round hole is installed, which will help redirect the smoke, retaining heat in some way.

• On the 23rd row, the overtube continues to be displayed, and a door is installed to allow the chimney to be cleaned.

• At 24- ohm in a row, a valve is installed on the overtube, which will regulate the draft in the furnaces and crucible.

• When laying the 25th and 26th rows, the space above the valve is even more covered with masonry.

• At 27- om - 29th rows, the overtube is combined with a chimney.
• Further, masonry goes and rises to the level when the cutting begins to form. It is recommended that when the chimney passes through the attic floor, laying on cement mortar.

• After that, after passing the pipe through the attic, it is taken out to the roof, laying out the otter and making reliable waterproofing around it, which will close the gaps between the chimney and the roofing material.

Video: Ordinal masonry of two variants of the Russian stove

Drying out the oven

After the masonry process is completed, the stove cannot be immediately heated at full strength, as in this case it will dry out unevenly, and ugly stains will appear on the surface of the walls. In addition, the mortar at the seams may crack, and the walls will depressurize.

To avoid this, the oven must undergo a natural drying process for 10 ÷ 12 days. In this case, it is necessary to open all the valves and doors. In order to create favorable conditions for drying the furnace structure, in this case, an ordinary electric light bulb of 200 ÷ 250 W can be placed in the cooking chamber for the entire drying time.

After completing the first stage of drying, you can proceed to forced measures - start heating the stove with a small amount of firewood, with open smoke dampers, but with closed fireboxes.

The stove is heated for 7 ÷ 10 days according to a special system: in the first two days only 3 ÷ 4.5 kg of firewood is used for heating, every day adding 1 ÷ 1.5 kg of fuel to the original amount, and so on throughout the entire time of forced drying.

You can check the readiness of the furnace for full operation as follows. If, after the start of the next furnace, after 1.5 ÷ 2 hours, condensate drops do not appear on the metal elements, then you can safely carry out a full-fledged control furnace using a lot of firewood.

If, after prolonged drying and a control fire, slight cracks appear in the seams between the rows of masonry, do not rush to close them. They need to be watched during the heating season. During this time, they will either stop in one position, or expand a little more. Only at the end of the heating season, it is possible to carry out repairs, repairing any flaws that have appeared.

Safety measures when starting the operation of the stove

Having a Russian stove in your house is just wonderful, as it has always been considered a source of warmth and special comfort. However, you need to remember about safety measures, because if they are not followed, the stove can become a source of increased danger.

Before the start of each heating season, it is imperative to conduct a thorough audit of all masonry joints - they must be airtight - not have deep cracks. Cracks that appear are sealed with a solution of clay with the addition of sand.

If, after the start of the furnace, smoke appears in the room, it means that there is no normal draft, and in no case should such a faulty furnace be heated. It is necessary to immediately check whether all the valves on the chimney are open. If the chimney is completely open, but the smoke continues to go into the room, then the chimney ducts need to be cleaned.

The chimney must be checked and cleaned at least once a year. However, if the stove is new and high-quality fuel is used, then the chimney, in fact, should not bother you for several years. If smoke occurs in this case, there is a risk that the masonry was done incorrectly somewhere, and you will have to invite the master to fix the problems.

If you follow the safety rules and have a good one, the stove will not be a source of danger, but will become a faithful assistant who will help out in many cases. In addition to the fact that this building has a very wide functionality, the Russian stove will also create a unique original color and special comfort in the house.

And at the end of the article - another video showing in detail the work of a specialist in the professional laying of a traditional Russian stove.

Video: The work of a master in the construction of a Russian stove