DIY portable guitar stand. Making a stand for a classical guitar Stand for a guitar with your own hands

Do-it-yourself guitar stand is a device that can and even needs to be made at home. Before you design a stand yourself, think about what kind and why you need it. The type of accessory depends only on personal preferences, possibilities.

The musical instrument requires careful handling. There are special stands for storing the guitar while the musician is not using it. They differ in the way they are attached. Stands help to securely fix the tool, save space in the room.

If there is not a lot of free space in the room, then it is more advisable to purchase a wall holder. Protects the instrument from accidental mechanical damage, looks stylish in any interior.

If you have multiple guitars, then a rack is the best solution for instrument placement. It is capable of holding more guitars in a smaller area. It is very convenient to take with you to concerts or rehearsals, as it is easy to disassemble or install.

What do you need to make your own guitar stand?

Popular floor stand, which has an A-shape. With it, you can put the guitar in an upright position. They are made from various materials.

On a note! Poor quality metal or plastic coating can damage the body of the guitar.

It is easier to make a stand out of affordable and easy-to-use materials, such as wood. When making your own stand, you will need the following:

  • plywood;
  • several wooden slats, boards;
  • foam rubber;
  • self-tapping screws, nails;
  • glue for wood;
  • furniture varnish.

Step-by-step instructions for making a stand

Before making a guitar stand with your own hands, take measurements from your instrument. The body and neck sizes are different, so the stand must fit in all respects to ensure reliable stability. Then start making.

  1. From the rails, make a neck stand with a holder.
Attention! Cover the holder on the inside with soft material or foam rubber so that the structure does not damage the neck of the instrument.
  1. From the boards, cut out the lower side supports with a jigsaw. Glue felt or foam rubber inserts to the places of contact with the tool.
  2. Make the base of the rack out of plywood and fix it with the side supports using self-tapping screws.
  3. To prevent the supports from spreading, fasten them with a front wooden panel. Drill holes in its lower part and in front of the side supports. Connect them with nails or screws.
  4. Use your imagination to give the front of the guitar stand an original look by carving decorative elements on it.

Finally, coat the product with varnish or stain, let dry.

Racks made of polypropylene pipes

There is another easy way to make a guitar stand. For this option, you can use polypropylene tubes. Its advantage is that the assembly is simple, does not require large cash costs.

For a stand for one guitar you will need:

  • drawing;
  • polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 20 and 25 mm;
  • two bypasses made of polypropylene;
  • pipe caps and tees;
  • corners 45 degrees;
  • special scissors for cutting pipes;
  • soldering iron.

To make one part of the rack, solder the plugs to the contours on one side, the tees on the other. Fix the legs of the rack with the help of corners. Make a jumper with a tee. Do the second part in the same way. Fasten them together.

Making a rack for several guitars will require the following materials, which can be purchased at any plumbing store:

  • 6 tees;
  • 8 corner transitions;
  • 2 tubes 40 cm and 70 cm;
  • 15 pieces of 4 cm;
  • 4 plugs.

To assemble the top of the rack, connect 4 tees and 3 pieces of pipe. From both edges, put on the corner transition. Use glue or a soldering iron to connect. For legs on both sides of the tee, fix at the corner transition, placing the parts at an angle of 90 degrees. Make the second leg. Using two 40 cm pipes, connect the legs. Use the remaining corners and tubes to complete the structure by fastening the top and bottom.

To make such a rack, you do not need to have special skills. It is simple and minimalistic. Suitable for any interior and will provide reliable support for the tool. If desired, you can paint the racks in any color with a spray from a can.

You can often see that some guitarists put the instrument in the corner of the room. This should not be done, as in such places the humidity is higher. A guitar stand is essential to keep the instrument intact. Choose a place for the rack where it will not interfere with anyone. This will prevent accidental kicks or other mechanical damage.

Install racks away from batteries and away from direct sunlight. Excessive temperature can damage the instrument. All places of contact with the guitar should be rubberized or covered with a soft material to avoid scratches, chips.

!
In this article, Johnny Brooke, author of the YouTube channel "Crafted Workshop" will show you how to make a portable guitar stand. It is perfect for both acoustic and electric guitars. The banjo and other stringed instruments of a similar shape will fit perfectly on it. If readers want to reduce this simple design in size, then it will also work for a small ukulele.

Materials.
- Boards 18 mm thick, 600x350 mm
- Two-component epoxy resin
- Aerosol contact adhesive
- Furniture hinge
- Self-tapping screws
- Impregnation for wood
- Felt strips based on - self-adhesive
- Leather cord.

Tools used by the author.
- A circular saw
- Band-saw
- Screwdriver
- CNC machine (optional)
- Milling machine
- Manual frezer
- Gas-burner
- Reismus
- Brush - sponge.

On his web page, Johnny offers you template drawings, .


Manufacturing process.
He intends to cut two halves of the structure from improvised lumber. To do this, he will need boards about 60 cm long and 30 wide.




Having previously printed the template on paper, the author lays them out on the board, briefly marking the sides with chalk.




And then, to give the product some charm, with the help of CNC cuts out the title of the song "We are the music makers and we are the dreamers of dreams". Creative people will find something to write on their own. But this step is completely optional. It is possible without the inscription at all.






Now you have to cut one of the two halves of the stand. To do this, using an aerosol contact adhesive, the author attaches the template to the surface of the wood. And here is an important point that the master explains: if you spray contact glue on both surfaces - on wood and a template - and let them dry for several minutes, then it will be much easier to remove paper from the surface than if you connect both surfaces to wet glue applied only to workpiece.






The author used a band saw to cut out the outline of the stand, but an electric jigsaw will also do the job. And the trick here is to feed the material slowly and follow the contour line.








In one area where the line curve was too sharp and therefore hard to reach for the saw, the author had to drill a 45 mm hole with a Forstner bit. This hole will allow the router to go into this sharp corner when processing edges. But, if you do not have such tools, then you can get by with a simple file and sandpaper to align the shape of the workpieces.




Removes the paper template from the surface of the workpiece, and processes its ends with a belt sander. Johnny uses 220 grit ribbon. This part will serve as a model for copying the second side of the stand. The more accurately it is processed, the easier it will be all subsequent work.








After the first half of the product is ready, Johnny applies it to the second and marks with a pencil. Then he cuts the workpiece on a band saw, leaving a small margin along the contour. Its author will cut it on a milling cutter.






Next, using double-sided tape, Johnny connects the two halves together.




Then I leveled the edges of the second workpiece on a milling machine with a miter cutter with a thrust bearing.






The author recommends that you always pay attention to the direction of the fibers when turning a tree. Otherwise, this might happen.






Now separates the blanks, and removes the adhesive tape.






The master came up with a wonderful idea to fill the carved letters with epoxy resin to give them more expressiveness. This resin is self-leveling, virtually odorless and has excellent penetration into all cavities. It mixes two components using accurate scales, because a lot depends on the quality of the prepared mixture.




The author adds a little black paint to the mixture, mixes thoroughly again.




It fills the letters, and then goes through a gas burner so that all the air bubbles burst. It takes about 20 minutes (in several approaches after 5 minutes). The epoxy mixture then cures for about 36 hours.






The next day, when the resin hardened, the master tried to remove the excess resin with a thicknesser. But this turned out to be not a good idea, as the machine captured too much of the layer, which caused the letters to lose depth. Next time the author intends to carry out this operation with a simple planer.








Next, Johnny screws on a brass loop that connects the two halves of the structure. Brass screws tend to unscrew. To prevent this from happening, the author rubs them with rosin.




Then, in both halves of the rack, symmetrically, he drills holes for a leather cord, which is necessary in order to fix a certain maximum opening width of the delivery. The size of the hole depends on the size of the cord you are going to use.




In the next step, the master rounded off all the ends using a hand router with a radius cutter.


And it goes through the finishing impregnation, which remarkably displays the depth and texture of the wood material. For lubrication, use a soft sponge.
For those who are interested - links in the description under the video on the author's channel.

This guitar stand is interesting for its laconic design and ease of assembly. Its cost is low. You don't need fasteners or wood glue to make it. Details of the process of how to make a stand for a guitar with your own hands, further.

materials

Before starting work, check for:

  • oak boards (0.25 x 22 x 38 cm);
  • drills;
  • ring drills;
  • jigsaw or saw;
  • grinder or sandpaper;
  • varnish or stain;
  • a sheet of paper;
  • pencil
  • rulers.

Step 1. Work begins with the manufacture of a template. You can use the given one in your work or change its parameters based on the required height and dimensions of the guitar itself.

Step 2. Print the template on a standard sheet of paper, if you did not change its dimensions, and use a pencil and a ruler to transfer it to the existing piece of board.



Step 3. Drill two holes with a diameter of 25 mm in the places marked on the template.

Step 4. Carefully make grooves from the holes and cut the board along the marked lines into two parts. This work is painstaking and requires you to be extremely careful due to the relatively complex shape of the blanks.


Step 5. Place the two pieces of the stand together. The grooves must enter into each other. Check the stability of the product.

Step 6. If everything is in order and the parts do not need to be adjusted to each other, sand the edges of the cuts. If desired, you can cover the surface of the stand with varnish or stain, or you can leave the product in this form.

Musical instruments require careful handling. Take, for example, the guitar, which, as a woman, needs not only delicate handling, but also reliable support. Between rehearsals, this instrument feels best when held upright. For this purpose, there are special stands, which, unfortunately, are very rarely found on sale.

Homemade guitar stand

Meanwhile the simplest collapsible homemade guitar stand(Fig. 1), consisting of only two parts, is easy to build from plywood with a thickness of 10 ... 15 mm.

First, on a sheet of cardboard in cells (50 × 50 mm), the outline of the rack is drawn (Fig. 2), and then a template is cut out of cardboard. According to the template, the contour of the part is transferred to plywood, and the workpiece is cut with a jigsaw. The edges of the racks are rounded using an electric mill or planer, as well as a rasp and sandpaper.

Both parts of the stand are connected using "sliding grooves". Try to ensure that the spike enters the groove tightly enough, without “chatter”, which is necessary to prevent spontaneous disassembly of the rack. Therefore, I repeat, the cuts in the details are made as accurately as possible. Usually, the grooves are cut out a little narrower than necessary, and the mutual fitting of the parts of a home-made guitar stand to each other is carried out during rough assembly, working out the grooves with a file. It is desirable to connect the posts at an angle of 85° (see Fig. 1). After rough assembly, the rack is disassembled and the halves are carefully cleaned with sandpaper. A monophonic study of the texture of wood is produced by covering the details with a stain. After that, a couple of layers of varnish are applied, for example, parquet.

Rollers are carefully glued onto the supports of the stand (Fig.

wooden guitar stand

3) sponge rubber or dark polyurethane foam.

The upper parts of the racks, on which the body (resonator) of the guitar rests, are equipped with rubber support shock absorbers - plugs from penicillin vials (see Fig. 3).

All materials of the section "Ideas for the master"

The guitar stand is the piece that holds the strings on the deck, but the stand also serves an aesthetic purpose. Therefore, the appropriate shape and design of the stand is so important for the appearance of the guitar.

guitar stand material

The traditional material for the manufacture of guitar stands is rosewood, ebony and other super-dense species are used.

Any dense radial wood is suitable for fishlessness. First of all, the material must be durable, and if the color is too light, then the stand can be tinted.

Maple and beech are borderline materials for the manufacture of coasters, that is, if there is no material at all, then it can be made from these species, but following some rules. Under the stand on the back of the deck, you need to glue a footer made of spruce or cedar 2mm thick with layers perpendicular the direction of the layers in the deck. If the soundboard has a dome, then it is necessary to make the stand slightly arched, arch-like, in the shape of the soundboard, which will also give the stand additional strength. You can choose any reinforced stand design.

Initial blank

You have selected the material. It is necessary to make an initial preparation. It must correspond to the overall dimensions of the finished product and be a radial cut.

The blank is a parallelepiped with dimensions 28÷32×170÷190×9÷11mm. Let the workpiece be geometrically absolutely correct. It is better to make the workpiece 5mm longer and 1-2mm. higher than the size of the stand you intended. The width of the workpiece can be precisely adjusted to the desired size of the finished stand, i.e. 28-32mm.

Processing the plane of gluing to the deck

It is necessary to very accurately process the plane with which the stand will be glued to the deck. If the deck has a dome, then the stand should repeat it.

It is possible to form this plane tweak the deck a bit, taking advantage of the fact that when glued, the soundboard will press against the stand and take its shape.

If the deck has a deflection, this often happens during repairs, then the deck can be partially aligned with the form of a stand. Don't overuse this technique, as the soundboard must be free to follow the base, otherwise you can get the soundboard bowed at the ends of the base's wings. Obviously, no thick footer should be glued on the back of the deck, which will pull the stand on itself.

Sawing wings

Saw off the wings according to the blue lines in the picture. Use a wide hacksaw with fine teeth.



Drank under the bone

The cut into which the nut or bone will be inserted should have a width of 2.5 to 3.0 mm.

The cut can be made with a small circular saw and an appropriate saw blade. To skew the cut, you can use a simple attachment when sawing, see photo. A router with a small finger cutter is also often used.


You can make this cut by folding the metal sheet into two or three. Do not forget that the cut is made at an angle to the dimensions of the stand to implement tuning compensation. With the same double blade, you can saw through the gap between the segments of the stand.

There is a technique for making a cut under the saddle, obviously with an inclination relative to the deck.

wood guitar stand

The cut falls to the middle of the stand. This solves two problems:

  • The string no longer wants to overturn, bend a high bone, the load on the front face of the stand sponge is reduced. The strings press the nut into the kerf, reinforcing its fixation.
  • When playing a guitar, it often happens that the front of the stand flexes under the pressure of the strings. The stand rotates. With the original angle, the saddle maximum will become even, vertical, when even can get a forward slope.

Rounding of wings and lip, saddle segment

Round off the wings with a wide file. With a chisel and a small plane, round off the segment for the bone.


guitar stand skirt

You can also make one improvement on the back edge of the stand. Process the segment for attaching the strings in accordance with the picture. And form the so-called skirt, its width is 2mm. It looks like the stringing segment has been moved to the middle by 2mm. This way you smooth out the stress jump at the edge. This skirt flexes and the stand is much less prone to lagging behind the deck. It also looks very nice and prevents some of the strings from scratching the soundboard.

Drilling holes for strings in the next article.

Similar posts