Homemade long burning stove. How to make a long-burning stove with your own hands? What to cook a country heater from

Homemade sawdust stove "Bubafonya" can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Usually, this stove is used as a mobile one: it can be put in a greenhouse for the time of freezing, it can be used to heat a workshop or a barn in winter, or it can be used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

32846 Solid fuel as the main source of heat has not lost its position for many decades. And even today, taking into account the electric and gas alternatives, solid fuel boilers are still very popular, especially when it comes to long-term burning.

Such equipment can work on different types, starting from…

Solid fuel as the main source of heat has not lost its position for many decades. And even today, taking into account the electric and gas alternatives, solid fuel boilers are still very popular, especially when it comes to long-term burning.

Such equipment can work on different types, from sawdust to coal. Depending on the region and the cost of fuel, preference is given to one or another type. Of course, natural gas is the most inexpensive way of heating, but it is not carried out in all districts and regions. Electricity is the most expensive source of heat, although ubiquitous. And if we are talking about a do-it-yourself long-burning furnace, then it will be possible to save not only on operation, but also on manufacturing. Such a furnace can be made with your own hands, if you understand the diagrams and drawings and be able to work with metal.

Why boilers and furnaces are more economical in operation

In order to understand this, let's go by the opposite method and compare it with conventional ovens.

What are the disadvantages of a standard oven:

• extremely low efficiency, which at best is 80%;
• the need for constant monitoring of fuel burnout - the laying time is 2-4 hours, depending on the volume of the furnace;
• inability to automate combustion.

In the long-burning furnace, these shortcomings are eliminated, as a result of which it has become an optimized analogue of the traditional stove.

Here, the combustion process is replaced by smoldering - due to the limited amount of oxygen, the firewood in the furnace does not burn, but actually smolders, releasing pyrolysis gas at the same time. In turn, it burns out in a separate chamber, due to which the efficiency of the unit increases by 12-15%. As a result, the burning time of one bookmark of firewood increases to 8-10 hours.

Scheme of the furnace

As for the automation of the process, this has been successfully implemented in pellet stoves, where pellets are used as fuel.

For reference! Pellets - pressed sawdust, dust, dust, wood chips and other small-fraction waste from the woodworking industry treated with natural resins.

Such an oven is presented together with a bunker for pellets. When part of the fuel burns out, the furnace is automatically filled with additional volume. Without human intervention, such a long-burning furnace can work for several days.

Manufacturing process

It is better to start making a furnace by finding a suitable room. Working with metal is, in principle, very dusty, and given that all this will have to be cooked and sawn, it is better to use the utility room, where there is 220 V electrical wiring.

Technical nuances in the construction of the furnace on the video:

Necessary materials and tools

• a metal container with a minimum volume of 200 liters (a used gas cylinder is ideal for this purpose);
• 2 pieces of pipe ∅10 cm;
• channel;
• refractory bricks for masonry (55 pcs.);
• a piece of sheet 60-80 cm diagonally;
• ready mix or cement mortar for masonry;
• a set of tools for working with metal;
• arc welding and electrodes;
• mounting level;
• plumb lines.

As a basis, you can use any metal container with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm. Even a fire extinguisher will do, but it is advisable to install such a stove only in small rooms.

Manufacturing process

Initially, you need to prepare the body of the furnace. To do this, we repeat, you can use any container made of steel, cast iron, stainless steel with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm. Most often, a used gas cylinder is taken as a basis, which must be washed and primed to eliminate the smell and gas residues.

If there is no suitable container, it can be welded from a sheet of steel 5-6 mm thick with a diameter of at least 40-50 cm. The bottom is welded to the cylinder by welding. The lid is prepared separately. You can make the future stove rectangular or square - the shape does not matter, it is important that the welds are airtight.

A cylinder or fire extinguisher will need to cut off the roof. A can of sparks can create a semblance of a detonation. Pre-fill it to the brim with water and start cutting.

If you cook the container from a sheet, it is better to make the bottom not from a circle according to the diameter of the cylinder, but from a rectangle - you will immediately get a stable base.

Separately, cut out another circle from the sheet with a diameter of a centimeter or two less than the diameter of the barrel, and in it cut out a circle ∅10 cm under the pipe. Weld the pipe to the hole.

Along the edges of the steel circle from the channel, weld the legs, which will simultaneously hold the base and push the fuel during its combustion.

The length of the pipe section must be at least 15 cm longer than the height of the entire structure so that at the end of combustion the pipe is a level higher than the edge of the barrel.

From the top of the cylinder (fire extinguisher) or separately from the sheet, cut out a circle for the future cover. It is advisable to weld a semblance of a “skirt” along the edges so that the lid fits as tightly as possible.

In the lid, cut a hole ∅10 cm for another pipe.

On the body of the barrel itself, cut out two holes - under the firebox and under the ash pan. You put a door on the hinges for each of them, and weld a handle to it from a corner or channel. Both holes are interconnected by a grate on which fuel will be placed.

An example of a rectangular long-burning furnace

Foundation device

The total mass of the furnace is not large, even taking into account the lining of refractory bricks. However, the foundation under it must be strong and stable.

It is not necessary to make even a small deepening under the foundation, an absolutely flat area filled with concrete is sufficient.

Bricks can be used as a base, from which the stove spot is laid out, ceramic tiles, cement floor, etc. Fundamentally, only one thing is the ideal straightness, which should be checked using the mounting level.

Chimney

This is an indispensable element of absolutely any solid fuel stove. As a chimney for a home-made design, a pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm, welded on top with a slight deviation, will serve.

The length of the straight section of the chimney must be at least the diameter of the entire furnace, so that the products of combustion are removed unhindered. When arranging a chimney, angles of more than 450, a large number of elbows to the exit from the room and a minimum length are not allowed. It is optimal when the chimney pipe is absolutely straight before the exit. By the way, to facilitate cleaning, it should be done in two parts.

The only exception concerns the rocket stove, in this case the chimney is used as an additional heat source and passes either under the floor or under the lounger.

Reflector

This is a metal or foil sheet fixed to the wall behind the oven. The main task of such an element is to reflect heat from the wall and prevent fire. As an additional bonus of the reflector - an increase in the temperature in the room due to the return of heat from the wall and the redistribution of heat flows.

Final assembly of the structure

Finished body

decorative design

Brick lining is a purely personal matter, which depends only on aesthetic taste. The presence of a brick shell does not have a big effect on the efficiency of the furnace. According to some reports, the burn-out time of one bookmark of firewood increases due to a decrease in heat loss, although this effect is very doubtful. A pure experiment using one type of furnace and type of fuel, where in one case there is a brick shell, and in the second there is not, has not yet been carried out.

Cover the oven with bricks or not - at will. Choose whether to perform additional work if, for example, such a furnace is located in a utility room or a separate boiler room.

The principle of a long-burning solid fuel stove (wood, sawdust, wood chips or pellets) is the same in all cases - whether such a unit is in the garage or heats a country house. The pyrolysis process, which occurs with minimal air access, significantly increases the efficiency of the boiler and the burn-out time.

Before you build a furnace with your own hands, pay attention to the following nuances:

• separate sections of the chimney are assembled in the direction against the movement of gases;
• there must be at least a meter of free space around the stove so as not to endanger either health or property;
• install the oven on a small pedestal. So that it can be carefully removed and the chimney pipe disconnected - in this case, cleaning will not create any hassle.

How to make an ordinary bubafonya (long-burning stove) with a water jacket - video:

Independent production of a long-burning stove

Wood stoves are actively used for heating premises for various purposes - these can be living rooms, outbuildings, garages and much more. Gas can be carried out far from everywhere, which supports the demand for solid fuel units. After all, firewood is a fairly cheap source of heat, and in some cases completely free. If we make a long-burning stove with our own hands and install it indoors, then we will have at our disposal an easy-to-use unit.

In this review, we will look at:

• The principle of operation of long-burning furnaces;
• Their advantages and disadvantages;
• the most efficient designs of wood stoves;
• how to make a good stove with your own hands.

After reviewing the information provided and homemade drawings, you can independently assemble a slow-burning stove for a garage, cottage, outbuilding and any other buildings.

Design features of furnaces

A long-burning stove is convenient because it can burn on one load of firewood several times longer than traditional stoves and fireplaces. This is directly related to its design features - it is endowed with a large firebox, and some of them burn wood under certain conditions, with minimal oxygen access to the combustion chamber and subsequent combustion of pyrolysis gases.

Sealing the seams will exclude the possibility of ingress of combustion products into the heated room.

Long-burning stoves are endowed with large fireboxes - a large amount of firewood and other types of warm fuel are placed here. Due to this, the frequency of approaches for laying fuel is reduced. Classic stoves and boilers with miniature combustion chambers require new portions every 2-3 hours. In the daytime, this can still be put up with, but at night a person wants to sleep, and not bother with laying firewood.

Worst of all, if everyone works during the day - there is simply no one to put logs in the oven. During this time, the temperature in the heated rooms will become quite low, so the evening will have to be given not to rest, but to kindling in order to create comfortable conditions. However, at night you will have to do the same thing as during the day - to throw more and more portions of logs into the insatiable firebox of a wood-burning stove.

The principle of operation of a long-burning furnace depends on its design:

• Units with a large firebox - their long work is due to the use of large combustion chambers, where a lot of firewood is loaded;
• Pyrolysis units - here solid fuel is burned with a minimum amount of oxygen and forms pyrolysis gas;
• Units without pyrolysis, but with a limitation in the intensity of combustion, are “boubafonya” furnaces from a barrel, which have a simple, but very original device.

The furnaces themselves can be made from a variety of materials - stone, refractory bricks or metal.

The key to a longer burning of your stove is the use of normal firewood, and not rotten logs with a low calorific value. Beech, oak, hornbeam and some varieties of fruit trees burn the longest.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's look at the main pros and cons of home-made long-burning heating stoves. Let's start, as usual, with the positive features:

Compactness and relative mobility are the main advantages of stoves.

• Cheapness - most often they are assembled from cheap sheet metal, capacious gas cylinders, barrels and much more. All this can be found at the ruins and at old enterprises. Some people can rummage in their garage or barn - for sure there will be unnecessary metal for a home-made long-burning stove;
• Easy to assemble - no one requires ultra-precise following of the chosen scheme. For example, all the same pyrolysis stove-potbelly stove can have a variety of sizes;
• High Efficiency - A properly assembled long-burning stove can provide heat to large rooms without requiring frequent refills.

There are also certain disadvantages:

• Not the most attractive appearance - homemade products really cannot please users with good external data;
• Some types of stoves cannot be used in residential premises - the same “bubafonya” will smoke and stink great before it enters the operating mode;
• A long-burning stove with a water circuit will be difficult to implement - you need to somehow ensure the intake of heat into the heating circuit.

Despite some obvious shortcomings, home-made long-burning wood-burning stoves are in some demand.

A long-burning stove is an excellent unit for heating greenhouses. It is expensive or impossible to heat them with electricity or gas, and by buying cheap firewood, you can provide greenhouses with life-giving heat for the whole winter.

Varieties of long-burning stoves

If you have planned to build a long-burning stove with your own hands, you have all the tools and you are not afraid of difficulties, then the information from the next section of our review will certainly come in handy - in it we will talk about the types of these stoves.

The simplest of all stoves is a potbelly stove. It is an iron stove assembled from an old gas cylinder or from sheet metal. In order to ensure long-term combustion, its internal volume is made very large - this is most easily implemented in sheet steel models, you just need to choose a drawing that is suitable in size.

Such a stove can work on wood, on coal, as well as on compressed solid fuel. It is easy to use, easy to melt and gives a large amount of heat. She is also characterized by unpretentiousness. If you need a simple stove for a summer residence, feel free to choose a potbelly stove - it will be the easiest and most affordable option.

This option is good because we can implement long burning in it and work on the design. The network contains drawings of similar stoves with large combustion chambers and afterburners - these are the so-called pyrolysis units. They burn not only fuel, but also gases formed during the pyrolysis process.. A brick unit will turn out to be bulky, but very effective. Here are its advantages:

• Long-term preservation of heat through the use of brick or stone;
• Excellent appearance - just find a suitable project and make a neat masonry;
• The ability to work in residential areas, in contrast to the same "bubafoni".

The disadvantage is that the assembly of such a long-burning stove will require experience in bricklaying.

The presented long-burning stove has an impressive size, works on wood and is distinguished by an extremely simple design - depending on the volume, it can burn up to 20-24 hours, without requiring frequent approaches for laying firewood. To make it, you will need a pair of metal containers with lids (barrels of 100-200 liters are suitable), pipes for the chimney and air supply, as well as a channel to create a weighted piston.

The long-burning stove "Bubafonya" is most often used for heating non-residential buildings - these are garages, greenhouses with garden crops growing in them, technical premises and utility rooms. Some craftsmen equip it with heating circuits, which allows you to heat living rooms without the risk of filling them with acrid smoke.

Self-made oven

Let's figure out how to make a long-burning stove with your own hands, using the available materials and the right tool. We will make "boubafonya" and potbelly stove, after which we will consider the question of how to modernize our home-made equipment.

We make a potbelly stove

Long-burning stoves of potbelly stoves are good because they are made from any available materials - these are various barrels, old roomy cans, pieces of large-diameter pipes, or just sheet metal. We chose sheet steel as the starting material - it is a more convenient material in processing. You can adapt a barrel for this, but doing work in its internal volume is not very convenient.

All sizes are presented more as guidelines, some average best option. You, in turn, can deviate from the dimensions of the parts to create a stove that meets your specific wishes.

The design of the long-burning furnace is quite clear from the above drawing. Here are its main nodes:

• Combustion chamber - firewood burns in it with the formation of pyrolysis gas;
• Afterburner - in it the combustion of pyrolysis products occurs;
• Doors of the combustion chamber and ash pan - they are purchased at the store, but they can be made with your own hands;
• Chimney - in most cases it is a pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

You can deviate from the drawing in one direction or another. But remember that with a decrease in size, the burning time decreases and the power of the long-burning furnace decreases.

The lower the power, the smaller the heated area. Therefore, it is best to provide a small margin.

For the manufacture of a long-burning furnace such as a potbelly stove, we need sheet steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm - this will ensure a long service life of heating equipment. If the steel is thin, it will begin to burn through - after a couple of seasons, holes form in it. Therefore, special attention is paid to the thickness of the steel. The optimal thickness value is 3-5 mm.

For our example, we will take the classic scheme of a potbelly stove, refine it and get at our disposal an efficient stove for a wood-fired house. At the initial stage, we prepare the side sheets - in our drawing they have dimensions of 450x450 mm. Next, we make the lower walls, front and rear walls - their dimensions are 200x450 mm. As a result, we should get a rectangular box. But do not rush to weld it together - there is a lot of work ahead.

First you need to make a base - this is the bottom wall and two side ones. We weld them together, at a height of 80 mm from the bottom we weld the grate. Now we need to prepare the front wall of the long-term heating furnace - we weld both doors into it, after which we weld it to our structure.

We prepare two metal sheets measuring 200x370 mm. We weld the first of them to the front and side walls at a height of 160 mm from the top. Next, we prepare the back wall - we weld small metal tubes into it, which should enter the space between the two inner sheets that form the afterburner chamber - secondary air will be supplied through them. Then we weld the back wall and the second metal sheet at a height of 80 from the top (welded to the side and back walls).

The damper is used to regulate air flow. It is he who increases the efficiency and quality of traction.

Our do-it-yourself long-burning stove is almost ready - it remains to deal with the top cover. In it we make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm and weld a piece of pipe for the future chimney. Now it remains to find out whether you need a hob or not - it is also welded into the top cover. At the last stage, we put the cover in place and weld it - the stove is ready, now it can be installed on a non-combustible base, attach a chimney and start it up.

When starting the long-term combustion furnace presented above, let it flare up, then cover the blower so that the firewood barely smolders and the generation of pyrolysis gas begins.

Another interesting long-burning pyrolysis furnace is shown in the following figure. It is made from a barrel or a piece of large diameter pipe and is supplied with a suitable lid. In the lower part, at a distance of 80-100 mm from the bottom, a metal disk with a hole in the middle is welded. Between the disk and the bottom, on the side wall, a door is welded. The resulting space forms our firebox. In the upper part we weld a chimney with a diameter of 70-100 mm.

In terms of low cost of use, such a stove is a real gift, since there is no shortage of sawdust in a private house.

The resulting long-burning furnace receives heat by burning pyrolysis gases generated by heating sawdust. The sawdust itself is poured into the main volume, and so that they do not wake up in the furnace, they are rammed with a wooden cone. When the furnace is started, a fire is made in the furnace, the cone is removed - after a while the unit will begin to produce heat.

We make a bubafonya

If you make a stove for heating premises for household or technical purposes, you should pay attention to the stove under the slightly ridiculous name "bubafonya". It has a simple but original design that provides a lot of thermal energy. It works like this:

• The lid is removed, firewood is loaded (small chips are placed on top);
• On top of the firewood and in the gaps between them, rags soaked in kerosene are placed;
• The rag is set on fire and sets fire to the firewood;
• A piston is installed in the furnace, the lid closes - the unit begins to generate heat.

In order to understand the essence of this unusual long-burning furnace, you just need to look at its diagram. The unit consists of three main parts - a body, a chimney, a heavy piston and a cover.

This picture clearly demonstrates the scheme and principle of operation of "bubafoni".

"Bubafonya" is simple in execution, the easiest way is to build it from two whole metal barrels (without holes) with a volume of 150-200 liters. Thick steel is not particularly needed here, because due to the limitation of oxygen supply, combustion will be slow and low-temperature. Let's see how to make such a long-burning stove with your own hands. Here is a step by step guide for you:

• We cut off the lid from the main barrel, prepare the combustion chamber;
• We weld a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm into the side wall of the combustion chamber (in the upper part, according to the figure) - this will be the chimney;
• We prepare the top cover - we make a hole in it with a width of 40-50 mm, through which the piston pipe will pass. We bend the edges of the lid with gentle blows of the canvas outward, we knock the edges of the barrel (combustion chamber) inward - the lid should fit tightly on our barrel;
• We are preparing the piston of our long-burning furnace - we take a pipe with a diameter of about 40-50 mm (it should go into a hole in the lid), weld the lid from the second barrel to it from below, and the pipe itself cannot be welded - air will pass through it. We weld pieces of a thick L-shaped channel to the bottom of the piston cover so that the piston itself is as massive as possible. The diameter of the piston itself should be such that it can be easily inserted into the combustion chamber (between the walls and the piston there should be gaps about 5 mm wide through which combustion products will exit).

Our self-made long-burning stove is ready - it remains only to install it on a non-combustible base and test it. How this stove is set on fire is described a little higher.

Some models of these long-burning stoves work on one load of firewood for up to 20-24 hours or more, generating a large amount of heat.

Increasing efficiency

Additional sheets of iron can be replaced by a wall made of bricks. It heats up more slowly, but it gives off heat longer.

The long-burning furnaces we have considered are distinguished by their high efficiency - the fuel in them burns slowly, and in the same potbelly stove, pyrolysis gases are also produced, which provide additional heat. Let's now figure out how to increase the efficiency of our self-assembly equipment. In all three stoves, we can increase the thickness of the metal - thus, it will accumulate heat in itself and slowly release it into the environment. The easiest way to do this is with sheet metal potbelly stoves, choosing thicker steel.

We can also equip all three furnaces with long horizontal chimney sections. The thing is that any solid fuel stoves (including long-term combustion) send a large amount of heat into the atmosphere. Having equipped the chimney with a long horizontal section, we will leave part of this heat in the room - the approximate length of the section is 3-4 meters.

As for potbelly stoves, we can equip these long-burning stoves with additional metal plates clasping the body from the back and sides (40-50 mm apart from it). Cold air will be sucked in between the body and the plates, heating up and going up - that is, we have made the most ordinary convector. If desired, other furnaces can be equipped with such convectors.

There are also a couple of upgrade options. The first option is to beat the corner in which the long-burning stove stands with galvanized iron so that the resulting heat is reflected into the room, and does not go into the walls. The second option is to overlay the stove with heat-intensive bricks or natural stone.

Video

Wood-burning solid fuel stoves have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to achieve automation of the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. Periodically, you have to be distracted from business and throw firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operation time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long burning mode.

What is long burning mode

The burning of wood is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. During ignition, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases are themselves flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. It is the combustion of pyrolysis gases that gives a bright flame with a high temperature.

In a conventional furnace, complete burnout of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, for the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, a separate chamber or compartment of the furnace is intended, where they are enriched with air oxygen. Thanks to this, a more complete combustion of fuel occurs, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the furnace increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the firewood pre-burning chamber, air access to it is limited. Firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove at one load is significantly increased, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the "long burning regime".

Long burning stove on sawdust: video

Advantages and disadvantages of long burning stoves

Like any other unit, such furnaces have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

• economical consumption of firewood;
• high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
• versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, and waste from woodworking enterprises, and sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
• small sizes;
• ease of control - using a damper for air supply;
• simplicity of design, thanks to which a long-burning stove is easy to make with your own hands.

Not without a long-burning stove and disadvantages:

• during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore, special requirements are imposed on the device of the chimney - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
• in order to switch to the long burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the normal mode in order to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the burning process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for do-it-yourself stoves.

You can increase efficiency by adding a water circuit to the stove, as shown in the video.

The design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning furnaces have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of firewood takes place, and in the other - afterburning of wood gases. The location of the cameras relative to each other can be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above, as a result of primary smoldering, firewood is compacted and settled, and gases enter the afterburner chamber, which can be located both below and through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blowers to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. For such stoves, a fan is not needed, but the volume of the loading chamber is usually smaller.

To regulate the intensity of combustion, an air supply channel with a damper is made. It can also have a different shape and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and more intense smoldering, some stoves are equipped with a load that lowers as the firewood burns out. Typically, long-burning stoves on sawdust have such a design.

Application of pyrolysis ovens

Long-burning stoves on wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, greenhouses. They can also be used for heating a house, but it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the furnace, since carbon monoxide may be released.

In the case of using a pyrolysis stove for heating a garden or residential building, it is better to equip it with a water circuit connected to heating radiators, and install the heating unit itself in a boiler room.

This article talks about how easy it is to make a cold smoked smokehouse, which at home will help you cook real delicacies from the most common products.

You can learn how to make a cold smoked smoke generator by looking here.

Here you will find the most understandable drawings for creating an effective potbelly stove with your own hands: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/burzhujki-chertezhi.html

Materials for the manufacture of a long-burning stove

Long-burning furnaces can be made by hand from sheet metal or various metal structures. Examples and drawings of such stoves are given below.

barrel stove

A do-it-yourself heater designed for heating utility rooms is made of a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. The stove runs on sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste. A small barrel for loading fuel is installed on a stand inside a large barrel. Under it is an ash pan - a drawer made of sheet metal.

The stove itself is placed on a stand, the role of which is played by a car disk. A smoke branch pipe is made from scraps of a pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm. The barrel is equipped with a sheet metal lid with a handle and an air inlet.

Inside a small barrel, a log sharpened into a cone is installed, it is indicated in the drawing. Sawdust is piled around it. After tamping, the log is taken out and the sawdust is set on fire. In the process of smoldering, gas is released into the space of a large barrel, where it is afterburned.

Furnace with a water circuit from a metal pipe

A home-made long-burning stove made of a metal pipe that can run on wood or sawdust is equipped with a water circuit. Loading is made from below, to intensify combustion, an air distributor is installed inside the furnace, pressing smoldering firewood.

A telescopic hollow pipe is installed in the center of the disc, through which air enters directly into the combustion chamber, where, thanks to the ribs welded onto the disc, it evenly distributes it over the entire surface of the firewood. It goes down on its own as the fuel burns out. You can lift it before loading with a cable.

The loading door is located in the center of the oven. Below is a cleaning door and an ash pan. At the top is a chimney. The stove is equipped with a water circuit with nozzles for water inlet and outlet. Such a stove with a water circuit can quite effectively heat small houses and other premises, and you can make it from improvised materials with your own hands.

Waste Gas Cylinder Furnace

A stove from a gas cylinder can be made without extra costs and finding the right material. The dimensions of a 50-liter cylinder are perfect for making such a stove, and the wall thickness and tightness make it safe to use.

The design of the furnace as a whole does not differ from the previous model, this can be seen in the drawing. A cut-off propane tank is used as the body. Do-it-yourself sheet metal is made with a suitable size cover with a hole for the air distributor pipe.

Fuel is loaded through the top, filling the volume of the cylinder almost to the chimney. Such a stove works on sawdust and other waste, as well as on small firewood. The fuel is carefully tamped, ignited with wood chips or an ignition agent and an air distributor is installed, after which it is covered with a lid.

The efficiency of such a stove is quite high, and thanks to the hermetic case, it can be used to heat rooms where people stay for a long time. If desired, it can be equipped with a water circuit by passing the chimney through the boiler.

Furnace "Bubafonya" from a gas cylinder

Making a long-burning furnace with your own hands from a fifty-liter gas cylinder is presented in the video.

The design of the stove is as simple as possible, it consists of only a few parts: a body, a cover, an air distributor and a chimney. For stability, the oven can be placed on legs from the corner. To remove ash from below, you can make an ash pan with a door.

Another video.

Sequencing

1. The remaining gas is released from the gas cylinder and washed several times with water.
2. Cut off the top of the balloon. You can make a furnace cover out of it by making a hole with a diameter of 65 mm in the center. The edges of the lid and body of the furnace are ground so that the lid fits tightly onto the body.
3. In the upper part of the cylinder, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made for the chimney and a pipe section 30-40 cm long is welded horizontally.
4. At the bottom of the cylinder, an ash pan cleaning door is made. To do this, cut out a rectangular section of the cylinder body, grind the sections, weld the hinges and install the door on the resulting hole. The door is equipped with a latch.
5. The balloon is placed on legs for stability. They can be made from a corner, pipe scraps or a rim.

   For ease of carrying, bar handles are welded on the sides.

6. The critical part of the oven is the air distributor. It must be heavy enough to effectively clamp sawdust and wood chips, withstand the heat of the kiln, and have divergent blades. They can be made from scraps of a corner. The distributor itself is made of thick-walled steel - at least 6 mm. Cut out a circle with a diameter of 20-40 mm less than the inner diameter of the furnace with a hole in the center. A pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and a height greater than the height of the stove is installed in the hole. Through it, air will flow to the combustion chamber. The blades are welded at the bottom of the disc.
7. The body of the stove can be painted with paint based on organosilicon compounds with your own hands, having previously removed scale, rust and dirt from its surface. Any other paint will quickly burn out, as the stove heats up to high temperatures during operation.

The temperature of the walls of the stove from a gas cylinder can heat up to 350 degrees during the fire! Care must be taken to avoid serious burns!

Homemade sawdust stove "Bubafonya" can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Usually, this stove is used as a mobile one: it can be put in a greenhouse for the time of freezing, it can be used to heat a workshop or a barn in winter, or it can be used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

Wood boilers for heating a private house

The main models of brick ovens for a wood-fired house, their features and manufacturing methods

How, using the drawings, to fold brick ovens for a house with a hob with your own hands

How to make a smokehouse with your own hands, if there are drawings and dimensions

Maximum heating efficiency with minimum fuel consumption can be achieved by using high efficiency equipment. An example is a home-made long-burning stove that does not require a constant load of firewood. It is enough to fill the firebox with logs once so that they burn for the next 12–15, or even 20 hours. This is very convenient for heating greenhouses and small country houses. Moreover, even a novice master who is familiar with elementary welding skills is able to make such a design.

Types of long burning furnaces

For suburban buildings, the problem with heat sources is very acute, and it is almost impossible to survive without heating in winter. Far from cities, there is no centralized heating, main gas pipelines to garden plots and small villages are not carried out, there are interruptions in electricity, and not everyone can afford solid fuel boilers.

Traditional wood-burning stoves have a significant drawback. Their firebox burns fuel too quickly, so you need to constantly throw up logs. During the night, the stove cools down, and in the morning it becomes cool in the house.

In long-burning solid fuel stoves, after filling the furnace, heat is released for a long time due to its smoldering rather than burning. Such furnaces can work:

The most common designs include:

Each of the furnaces has its own characteristics, but all of them:

• warm the room for a long time;
• easy to care for;
• economical in terms of fuel consumption;
• relatively safe;
• warm up quickly;
• durable enough.

In retail chains and online stores, you can easily choose a ready-made long-burning stove of different sizes and capacities. They look aesthetically pleasing, but are expensive. A self-made construction will cost much less, and materials for it can almost always be found in a barn or on a house adjoining site.

The principle of operation of the long-burning furnace

A distinctive feature of the process of long-term combustion is the combustion of solid fuel not from the bottom up, but vice versa - from the top down. As the upper layers burn through, the flame sinks lower, affecting layer after layer. To understand why in this case the firewood burns longer, one should turn to the physical component of the process.

A simple example is a match or a torch. If you turn them with the burning end down or sideways, they will burn out very quickly. But if the flame is directed upwards, then the combustion process will be much longer. In this case, the match will release much more heat energy.

Long-term burning in stoves is ensured by smoldering firewood at high temperatures, and the intensity of heat release is regulated by the supply of air through vents or blowers.

A high efficiency index of furnaces based on long-term combustion is obtained due to the pyrolysis process, or thermochemical decomposition of solid fuel components. In this case, the logs burn out completely, and heat escapes through the chimney in small volumes.

Such stoves appeared during the times of war communism in Russia, when even firewood was in short supply, and boiler houses did not work. These devices saved the population from the cold during World War II.

The potbelly stove device is ingenious and is an improved version of Russian stoves. Its design consists of a metal case with two doors and a chimney. Firewood is thrown into the upper hole, and with the help of the lower door they regulate the air supply and, accordingly, the process of burning and smoldering.

Note! The potbelly stove is omnivorous, so you can burn everything that is at hand in it - coal, firewood and even old furniture.

Thanks to the pyrolysis process, combustion occurs slowly, and more heat enters the room. A traditional stone stove consumes a huge amount of solid fuel, which cannot be said about a potbelly stove, which consumes it sparingly.

The genius of the potbelly stove lies in the absence of a grate inside the metal case. Air through the lower door is directed directly into the mass of fuel. Covered blower - burning subsides, open - intensifies.

Efficient operation of the potbelly stove is possible when filling the firebox with firewood only a quarter of the volume. Therefore, it should not be packed to capacity, otherwise the pyrolysis process will be disrupted.

Stove fireplace of long burning

Potbelly stove fireplace Expo

The fireplace attracts with the view of an open fire, and many owners of country houses dream of having it in their living room. But some think about the benefits of such a furnace. The design of a classic English fireplace is based on the principle of long burning and allows the fire in the firebox to glow for a long time. But the efficiency, which does not exceed 50%, and low heat transfer are its significant drawbacks.

Important! Inside the firebox of an English fireplace there is a smoke tooth that affects the internal circulation of air masses and flue gases.

It does not allow the incoming air to go up, directing it to the area of ​​laying the logs.

Another option for a long-burning stove fireplace is the so-called Dutch woman. Before kindling, the blower is closed in it, and the firebox is loaded with firewood only a quarter, without closing the door during combustion. Most of the heated air will still fly out through the chimney to the street, but the effect of prolonged contemplation of the fire during the evening will remain indelible.

As a stove, the bubafonya is not perfect, but, using the principles of its design, the craftsmen learned to create more advanced units that allow the fuel to burn out more slowly.

At the heart of the bubafoni is a steel cylinder with inlet and outlet pipes, as well as a "pancake" in the form of an oppression with blades located inside and an inlet air duct welded to it. As the fuel burns out, the load gradually descends under its own weight. The blades have a curved shape, thanks to which the gases scroll over the pancake several times until they burn out as much as possible.

The chimney for bubafoni is made spasmodic in cross section so that the air that has not reacted with the fuel is not drawn out.

The process of fuel combustion begins from the upper layer, where air enters through the inlet pipe. Then the combustion zone moves lower.

The disadvantage of bubafoni is the impossibility of its operation on coal and pellets, as well as its low efficiency. Adding the following portions of logs to it will not work until the previous ones decay to the end. And the top cover of the stove is not suitable for cooking, like a potbelly stove.

Slobozhanka

The stove was named after the historical area where it “was born”. It is a full-fledged heating device with a hob.

According to the principle of operation, the Slobozhanka is similar to the bubaphone, but the air flow here is carried out from the side. Then it is drawn into the perforated casing located inside the housing and rises up. The fuel in this case takes in as much air as is required for smoldering, and the excess moves on.

The air in the Slobozhanka enters all fuel layers, so the pyrolysis process is more active, and the furnace works more efficiently.

Conclusion

All the designs of long-burning furnaces described above can be made independently. To do this, stock up on drawings and the necessary materials. Homemade stoves will cost less than purchased ones, although outwardly they will be less attractive.

Homemade long-burning stoves: choosing the best

Making a homemade long burning wood stove

Manufacturers and craftsmen have always been attracted to models that can produce maximum heat with minimal fuel consumption. Numerous attempts to create such equipment have led to the emergence of a long-burning furnace. A home-made stove is used for heating small apartments and small storage facilities - warehouses, greenhouses and utility rooms. The second advantage of this furnace is its simple design, which is quite possible to assemble with your own hands.

Advantages of the model

Why is wood fired equipment so popular?

What is a long burning wood stove made of?

Original long-burning potbelly stove

The answer lies in its strengths:

• The device continues to function even after fuel burnout (some models are able to work from 10 to 24 hours);
• The long-burning furnace is a self-contained design;
• Small dimensions;
• Versatility in the choice of fuel - consumes coal, sawdust, wood chips, etc .;
• Homemade construction does not require a foundation;
• Does not need regular use. That is, the downtime period does not affect its performance in any way;
• Sufficiently high efficiency - 85-90%;
• During a long operation, the stove practically does not emit smoke;
• It can even be built from an ordinary metal barrel.

The unconditional advantages of this design should also include its low cost in the heating equipment market. Do-it-yourself device construction does not require large expenditures on material or key elements.

The stove in question, however, is not without its drawbacks. A long-burning stove cannot cope with heating large rooms, since it is not designed to connect a do-it-yourself water system.

List of required materials

The first step is to decide on the type of room for which the equipment will be made by hand. Be sure to make sure that the workplace has access to outlets, plenty of free space and a canopy that reliably protects from the weather.

Metal furnace on long-burning sawdust - drawing

The list of necessary materials for making a structure with your own hands includes the following elements: sheet steel, sections of a thick-walled metal pipe, an old gas cylinder and a large fire extinguisher.

The main component is a large 200 l barrel made of cast iron or steel. Before choosing a barrel for a long-burning furnace, carefully inspect its surface - it should not have visible damage and rust. The thicker the walls of the barrel, the longer the self-made structure will last.

• Materials for legs (small pipes, fittings or channels);
• 2 steel circles with a cross section of 5 mm;
• Channel;
• Door made of cast iron or stainless steel;
• A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is slightly longer than the barrel (15-20 cm);
• Pipe with a diameter of 150 mm (for a chimney);

Assembly of heating equipment

Step-by-step instruction

The main element for the stove should not have a top. In the case of a balloon, it is necessary to cut off its top.

In the case of a gas cylinder, before cutting off the top, it is necessary to carry out the procedure for evaporating the remaining gas:

• unscrew the valve and fill the bottle with water to the brim. Only then can you start cutting off the surface;
• A do-it-yourself metal base is welded to the lower part of the future long-burning furnace, of the desired square shape, since it is more stable and reliable, in addition, legs are easier to attach to such a structure;
• Production of a clamping circle. A circle is cut out of a piece of steel, slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel. Right in the center of the cut out structure, a small hole of 10-15 cm is made for the chimney. We insert the pipe into the barrel and check how far it comes out of the stove. Remember, a wood-fired structure needs a chimney that extends at least 15-20 cm above the heating equipment;

Elements of a homemade long-burning stove

• In another part of the barrel, a cross-shaped channel is welded - this part is responsible for the fuel supply;
• The stove cover is either made by hand from new materials, or a previously cut off top is used for it. It is necessary to cut a small hole in the cover for the clamping ring pipe.
• Do not rush to cut a hole for the pipe. First, coordinate its dimensions with the dimensions of the barrel (the circle should smoothly descend into the structure with barely noticeable contact with the walls);
• A small hole for the ash pan is cut out from the bottom of the barrel. Remember to take into account the size and shape of the ash door when cutting the hole at the bottom of the barrel. Practice has shown that for a long-burning furnace it is better to provide a rectangular ash pan;
• At this stage, all components are welded;
• It remains to cut a hole for a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm in the upper part of the body. The chimney pipe is also welded to the structure and securely sealed.

It is worth noting that it is desirable to seal all joints by welding, since fire-resistant sealants will not withstand exposure to very high temperatures for a long time.

Several technical features

The stove should not be located near walls and combustible interior items - armchairs, sofas, beds, linoleum, etc. Make sure that there is always free space around the long-burning stove, surrounded by fire-resistant materials.

Long burning furnace location

Remember, a wood-burning design is prone to severe overheating, so once again make sure that there are no combustible objects near the equipment during its operation.

Practice has shown that it is better to make chimneys collapsible, since sooner or later the time comes to clean the structure. Cleaning a long-burning stove is easier with a removable chimney. It is better to design a home-made chimney as follows: the joints should be located in the opposite direction to the moving gases.

How to use the constructed structure correctly?

The long burning stove has several nuances of its use:

• First, the cover is removed and the clamping device is removed;
• Fuel is loaded to the very bottom. It is worth noting that the amount of loaded fuel should not exceed the level of the chimney;
• The main requirement is that firewood must be pressed, that is, stacked as tightly as possible. So you will achieve a slight increase in efficiency - by 5%;
• Materials for kindling are placed on top of the firewood: small branches or paper. It is better to water the top layer of firewood with kerosene or oil;
• Set fire to firewood and close the structure with a pressure circle;
• When the fuel flares up well, do not forget to close the air damper.

Conclusion

Long-burning furnaces are the most promising type of heating equipment at the present stage of development, despite the fact that its technology was patented back in 1920. The heating system is characterized by high efficiency, excellent performance and complete autonomy.

Homemade wood burning stove

How to make long-burning stoves with your own hands

Owners of greenhouses, garden plots, garages and other buildings that need heating will be interested to know if it is possible to make a long-burning wood stove with your own hands. In other words, a stove that can be loaded with firewood once and then not approached for a couple of days.

Scheme of the device of a long-burning boiler.

Yes, such a long-burning stove can be built as a homemade product - with the simplest skills of construction work.

Homemade long-burning wood stoves: scheme and principle of operation

If the air supply is free and the draft is strong, dry firewood burns very quickly.

If, when the firewood is fully loaded, by controlling the air supply, combustion is transformed into smoldering, then the heat release will drag on for hours or even days.

Here is the device of a simple, but rather effective wood-burning stove, oriented to long-term burning, which repeats the scheme of the Stropuva boiler. In the people, this stove is called “bubafonya” (after the name of the person who posted the scheme of the stove on the Internet for the first time).

Scheme of a homemade long-burning stove.

It is no more difficult to make such an oven than a potbelly stove more familiar to the general public.

However, the principle of combustion and the design of such a furnace are completely non-standard. Combustion does not take place from the bottom up, as in ordinary stoves, but, starting from the upper layers, goes down until the firewood burns out.

Firewood under the pancake in the firebox is lit from above, thanks to the air supply pipe. When burning, gases seep through the edges of the pancake and exit into the chimney. Pancake as the firewood burns down. It is possible to control the air supply with a damper at the ends of the air supply pipe.

Long burning wood stove materials:

• iron 200-liter barrel with a sealed bottom (for fuel and lubricants);
• a circle (pancake), cut out of metal, of a slightly smaller diameter compared to the barrel (the circumference of the pancake is slightly less than the circumference of the barrel);
• 4 corners or channels 50-60 mm high and less than the radius of the pancake;
• metal 100 mm pipe (blowing) with a length of 5 cm more than the height of the barrel;
• 150 mm metal pipe (for the chimney), preferably 5 m long.

Homemade "bubafonya" of long burning

Cut off the welding seam from the upper end of the barrel with a grinder, align the sharp edges. The result is a cylinder and a lid with a finished flange. Using a hammer or sledgehammer, bend the edges of the cylinder inward. And bend the lid collar outward. Turn the cap over and put it on the cylinder. The lid will sit securely in place without slipping.

Use a chisel to cut a hole for the blowpipe in the center of the cover (for it to pass freely into the hole, it is enough to use a diameter of 102 mm).

Bubafoni assembly diagram.

The hole for the cork on the lid can be tightly welded, but it is better to leave it: looking inside, you can regulate the combustion process.

Then, in the upper part of the barrel, a place is marked for attaching a piece of the chimney pipe.

The intended hole is cut out, and a piece of a chimney pipe 20-25 cm long and 150 mm in diameter is welded. You can install a shut-off damper directly inside the pipe. The body of the stove is ready.

Next in line is the air blower. For greater rigidity, the edges of the pancake are bent (so that the pancake does not twist from the heat). A hole is cut in the center of the pancake for the blower pipe, and it is welded. If a lid from another barrel is used for a pancake, then the cork hole is tightly welded: during combustion, gases will pass only around the circumference of the pancake. Channels or corners are welded to the pancake from the bottom side. The air supply device is also ready.

It will fit inside the cylinder. At the top of the blower pipe, an adjusting damper of the same diameter as that of the pipe is placed. A threaded pin is welded vertically to the inner wall of the pipe;

After fitting the damper, tighten it with the wing nut. By loosening the nut, moving the damper in relation to the edge of the pipe and tightening the nut back, it will be possible to regulate the flow of air into the furnace.

Install the lid on top - and the whole stove is ready.

It remains to install a pipe for the chimney. Its diameter must be less than 150 mm, otherwise the combustion products will not be completely removed. For good draft, it is better to have a pipe 5 m long. Install it near the stove, preferably on legs. Seal the bottom of the pipe tightly.

Connect the stove end-to-end to the knee, which is welded to the chimney pipe, tighten with a clamp, placing fiberglass under it for tightness. To drain the condensate that collects in the pipe, a ball valve is welded under the elbow of the pipe (it will be possible to clear the blockage with a bar).

This valve is necessary, since when the condensate freezes, the weld can break. Condensate, in addition, can flow into the stove, and through the looseness of the connecting clamp - out.

Now it is already possible to heat the stove "bubafonya". After removing the cover, pull out the air supply unit. Lay the firewood - while the height should not exceed the height of the lower edge of the chimney elbow. If you put firewood vertically, then more will come in. Logs can also be chosen large, up to 20 cm in diameter - they will burn without problems.

The top layer is formed from finely chopped chips. A rag or paper is placed on top, poured a little kerosene. Now the firewood is covered with a pancake of the air supply device, the stove cover is strung on top. Opening the blower damper, a piece of lit paper or a rag is thrown into the air supply pipe (matches quickly go out due to strong draft).

When firewood flares up with a characteristic crackle, the blower damper is completely blocked. Bubafonya in this mode can work without any supervision for days.

This long burning wood stove produces little ash due to the fact that the wood burns almost completely. Ashes can be left uncleaned for a long time.

As you can see, it is quite possible to design the Bubafonya furnaces with your own hands. Many craftsmen make them not only from barrels, but also from old gas cylinders, large fire extinguishers. The main requirement for the future furnace is strong steel walls.

This is how you can make a long-burning stove.

Homemade long-burning stoves: the principle of operation

Pros and cons of a homemade long-burning wood burning stove

Wood-burning solid fuel stoves have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to achieve automation of the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. Periodically, you have to be distracted from business and throw firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operation time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long burning mode.

What is long burning mode

The burning of wood is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. During ignition, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases are themselves flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. It is the combustion of pyrolysis gases that gives a bright flame with a high temperature.

In a conventional furnace, complete burnout of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, for the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, a separate chamber or compartment of the furnace is intended, where they are enriched with air oxygen. Thanks to this, a more complete combustion of fuel occurs, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the furnace increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the firewood pre-burning chamber, air access to it is limited. Firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove at one load is significantly increased, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the "long burning regime".

Advantages and disadvantages of long burning stoves

Like any other unit, such furnaces have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

• economical consumption of firewood;
• high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
• versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, and waste from woodworking enterprises, and sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
• small sizes;
• ease of control - using a damper for air supply;
• simplicity of design, thanks to which a long-burning stove is easy to make with your own hands.

Not without a long-burning stove and disadvantages:

• during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore, special requirements are imposed on the device of the chimney - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
• in order to switch to the long burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the normal mode in order to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the burning process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for do-it-yourself stoves.

The design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning furnaces have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of firewood takes place, and in the other - afterburning of wood gases. The location of the cameras relative to each other can be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above, as a result of primary smoldering, firewood is compacted and settled, and gases enter the afterburner chamber, which can be located both below and through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blowers to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. For such stoves, a fan is not needed, but the volume of the loading chamber is usually smaller.

To regulate the intensity of combustion, an air supply channel with a damper is made. It can also have a different shape and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and more intense smoldering, some stoves are equipped with a load that lowers as the firewood burns out. Typically, long-burning stoves on sawdust have such a design.

Application of pyrolysis ovens

Long-burning stoves on wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, greenhouses. They can also be used for heating a house, but it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the furnace, since carbon monoxide may be released.

You can learn how to make a cold smoked smoke generator by looking here.

Here you will find the most understandable drawings for creating an effective potbelly stove with your own hands: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/burzhujki-chertezhi.html

Materials for the manufacture of a long-burning stove

Long-burning furnaces can be made by hand from sheet metal or various metal structures. Examples and drawings of such stoves are given below.

barrel stove

A do-it-yourself heater designed for heating utility rooms is made of a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. The stove runs on sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste. A small barrel for loading fuel is installed on a stand inside a large barrel. Under it is an ash pan - a drawer made of sheet metal.

The stove itself is placed on a stand, the role of which is played by a car disk. A smoke branch pipe is made from scraps of a pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm. The barrel is equipped with a sheet metal lid with a handle and an air inlet.

Inside a small barrel, a log sharpened into a cone is installed, it is indicated in the drawing. Sawdust is piled around it. After tamping, the log is taken out and the sawdust is set on fire. In the process of smoldering, gas is released into the space of a large barrel, where it is afterburned.

Furnace with a water circuit from a metal pipe

A home-made long-burning stove made of a metal pipe that can run on wood or sawdust is equipped with a water circuit. Loading is made from below, to intensify combustion, an air distributor is installed inside the furnace, pressing smoldering firewood.

A telescopic hollow pipe is installed in the center of the disc, through which air enters directly into the combustion chamber, where, thanks to the ribs welded onto the disc, it evenly distributes it over the entire surface of the firewood. It goes down on its own as the fuel burns out. You can lift it before loading with a cable.

The loading door is located in the center of the oven. Below is a cleaning door and an ash pan. At the top is a chimney. The stove is equipped with a water circuit with nozzles for water inlet and outlet. Such a stove with a water circuit can quite effectively heat small houses and other premises, and you can make it from improvised materials with your own hands.

Waste Gas Cylinder Furnace

A stove from a gas cylinder can be made without extra costs and finding the right material. The dimensions of a 50-liter cylinder are perfect for making such a stove, and the wall thickness and tightness make it safe to use.

The design of the furnace as a whole does not differ from the previous model, this can be seen in the drawing. A cut-off propane tank is used as the body. Do-it-yourself sheet metal is made with a suitable size cover with a hole for the air distributor pipe.

Fuel is loaded through the top, filling the volume of the cylinder almost to the chimney. Such a stove works on sawdust and other waste, as well as on small firewood. The fuel is carefully tamped, ignited with wood chips or an ignition agent and an air distributor is installed, after which it is covered with a lid.

The efficiency of such a stove is quite high, and thanks to the hermetic case, it can be used to heat rooms where people stay for a long time. If desired, it can be equipped with a water circuit by passing the chimney through the boiler.

Furnace "Bubafonya" from a gas cylinder

The design of the stove is as simple as possible, it consists of only a few parts: a body, a cover, an air distributor and a chimney. For stability, the oven can be placed on legs from the corner. To remove ash from below, you can make an ash pan with a door.

1. The remaining gas is released from the gas cylinder and washed several times with water.
2. Cut off the top of the balloon. You can make a furnace cover out of it by making a hole with a diameter of 65 mm in the center. The edges of the lid and body of the furnace are ground so that the lid fits tightly onto the body.
3. In the upper part of the cylinder, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made for the chimney and a pipe section 30-40 cm long is welded horizontally.
4. At the bottom of the cylinder, an ash pan cleaning door is made. To do this, cut out a rectangular section of the cylinder body, grind the sections, weld the hinges and install the door on the resulting hole. The door is equipped with a latch.
5. The balloon is placed on legs for stability. They can be made from a corner, pipe scraps or a rim.

For ease of carrying, bar handles are welded on the sides.

Homemade sawdust stove "Bubafonya" can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Usually, this stove is used as a mobile one: it can be put in a greenhouse for the time of freezing, it can be used to heat a workshop or a barn in winter, or it can be used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

Long-burning wood-burning stove: a home-made design from improvised materials