Homemade stoves for a bath with their own hands. Homemade sauna stoves: manufacturing recommendations

Currently, there are many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove in a bath with your own hands. In this article, we will describe in detail, attaching appropriate photos, how to do this, having our own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in the bath and sauna are significantly different from each other. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity as well, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles under such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath is characterized by a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If a sauna is being equipped, then it will be necessary to observe the maximum contact area of ​​​​the furnace body with air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, is able to heat the stones up to 200-250 ºС. It allows you to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you need to achieve only 15% humidity.

In the Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached, and a lot of steam is produced. At the same time, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. "Dry" steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values ​​​​of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, the stones are placed in a furnace, that is, in a closed heater.

Do-it-yourself stoves for a Russian bath

The most important thing when making do-it-yourself metal sauna stoves according to the drawings is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºС with heated metal walls (read: “Drawings of a metal sauna stove - we build a stove with our own hands”). You will definitely have to reheat, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, in which it is quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

• Make a furnace lining. The process consists in lining the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heater warms up most of all. Therefore, you should immediately design the furnace so that it is of increased size, because most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that hot smoke is produced as a result, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on a pipe. A little more difficult is to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install brick screen around the iron stove for the bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best because of the possibility of temperature control, however, it is less practical, since the back wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a rather thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A home-made iron stove in the bath quite often begins to burn out precisely from low-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent structure. On top of the oven, they try to minimize the number of seams.

When making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, it will be practically impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains to make extremely high-quality seams.

What is the size of the stove and where is it better to put it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of the insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, the more of them, the easier it is to generate the required amount of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy a different volume. It was determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30×40×30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, you will need to choose the individual volume of the heater, based on the size of the stove. In order to avoid mistakes, it is better to build on the finished drawings. When using the experimental approach, it should be taken into account that the volume of the furnace should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before you build a stove in a bath, you should calculate the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice, it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be serviced, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that it is possible to easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, divorced inside the container, which would reach all the stones. From the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After diluting the pipes, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the pipes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel sauna stoves

Consider the version of the furnace, which will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. Steel sheets 3 mm thick are used for its construction.

To start the combustion process, the design provides for an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are attached to the sides at the top of the firebox.

Consider another scheme by which you can make metal bath stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called furnaces with afterburning gases. On the back wall, a steel platinum is welded to it. Air enters the furnace from under the grate, and is supplied through the air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and it also supplies air already warmed up to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume are combustible.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the furnace and heating of the stones to higher rates. If at the same time dry firewood is used as fuel, then they will be required much less. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently been used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. Having studied her drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves the construction of a furnace with a volume of 30% more than the heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties in installing it - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before you make a stove for a bath, you should decide whether you need a steam tank for heating water. Some adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts claim that heavy steam is produced in this way, so they advise installing a tank in the washing room, and heating the water is done by means of a heat exchanger built into the furnace, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now consider the scheme of a metal furnace with a water tank. The design is considered quite well-designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby warming up the walls of the firebox better. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank at the back of the furnace. The chimney is shifted back, passing through the tank. Due to the large height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite enough for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to the location, it can be difficult to close it after water has been supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of the furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired indicators as quickly as possible and keep it at that level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, blowing the walls, accelerate the heating.

For these purposes, the casing-convector is also intended. The gap between it and the furnace wall should be 1.5-2 cm. Air is sucked through the gap, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make the stove in the bath with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing is made of thin, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, ventilation holes can be made in the casing. In this case, the proportion of air rising along the walls will be directed to the heater, blowing over the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is great for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal stove for the bath, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient for laying large logs. On top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size can be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bath as correct as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the level of humidity in the sauna, which in extreme temperatures can lead to burns.

There is another option - to install a heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, while such an oven can have two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the steaming process is dry, and with a closed lid - to generate a larger volume of steam.

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

To date, there are many designs of metal stoves: wood, electric and gas. Wood-burning appliances require a lot of fuel, careful maintenance, but they give a "live" fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas ovens are the most modern and reliable, they have thermostats for power control and protective devices that are triggered when the gas is attenuated.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal stoves for a bath

Metal stoves for baths have significant advantages over other heating structures:

• The small dimensions and mobility of the metal stove make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces are:

1. Rapid cooling associated with the oven's inability to retain heat. Continuous fuel combustion is required.

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

For the manufacture of the stove, metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm is used, with a smaller value, the device will not last more than 5-7 years. Reputable stove manufacturers offer products in 10mm steel for fireboxes and slightly thinner for water tanks and stone bins.

The design of the stove-heater made of metal for a bath

A metal sauna stove consists of three main parts, such as a fuel combustion chamber, a stone hopper, and a water heating tank.

• The combustion chamber. Here is the process of burning firewood. To control it, the doors of the firebox and blower are used. The latter serves to supply air to the furnace. Removal of combustion products from the furnace is carried out through an ash pan - a metal grate. From the firebox, the heat from burning firewood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of a metal stove for a bath is clear to you, we proceed to the process of its manufacture.

Making a stove-heater for a bath from a metal pipe

We will make the stove from a pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, its height will be 1600 mm. For work, we need: a steel sheet with dimensions of 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a metal pipe 1600 mm long with a wall thickness of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, a metal rod t. 10 mm, a cast-iron grate (from the store), door hinges - 8 pcs, hecks - 3 pcs, a drain valve for the tank, a tape measure, a building level, a grinder, metal scissors, a welding machine.

1. We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, the other is 0.7 m.

The procedure for installing a metal stove in a bath

Measures for the installation of a bath stove begin at the stage of erection of the entire building - a foundation is laid for installing the device with a slight deepening. It is laid with two rows of bricks, and a stove is placed on it.

• The minimum distance between the wall and the oven is assumed to be at least 1 m. In addition, an additional protection device is recommended in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with foil with a layer of insulation. This will prevent overheating of the wooden wall and its ignition.

After the installation of the furnace is completed, it can be lined with bricks on clay mortar. This will improve the appearance of the apparatus and save people from the possibility of burns. The stove with lining can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above will convince you that making a metal stove for a bath is not so difficult. If you have the skills of metal cutting and welding, you can make a home-made furnace using a simple drawing, which will be no worse than a purchased one.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

We assemble a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

A lot of do-it-yourself metal sauna stove designs have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully disclosed and is still relevant. With your own hands, metal bath stoves can be made from improvised metal materials, you only need desire and a little time.

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath

After reviewing this article and observing the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great steam bath, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. Let's talk about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and device should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) in order to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and hot water

What do you need to work?

If a metal stove for a bath is being built with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determining the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything you need.

Tool

• Welding machine.
• Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
• Bulgarian.

Material metal

If a homemade stove for a bath is made from a pipe, you will need:

• Wheel disks - 4 pcs.
• Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
• Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
• Armature iron with a diameter of 8-10 mm or a rod.

Building material

• Brick - 300-350 pcs.
• Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
• Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cu.

Please note: thrust is created by rarefaction, i.e. rarefied cold air draws warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends to rise under the action of the Archimedean force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - naturally, the draft is less, in winter it is the other way around. The thrust also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of the heater stove

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it creates smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal bath stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, draft, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - famous Roman baths.

Works on the construction of the furnace

So, let's start building a metal bath stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the foundation on which it is planned to install the structure. Despite the fact that the iron stove for a bath from a pipe weighs a little, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We build the foundation

• For the foundation for the furnace, we knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
• We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across squares 20x20 cm. We connect the fittings at the junctions with each other with a knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground, for this we drive it into the ground along the edges of the lattice 4 pieces of rebar and tie a grate to them on weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure that the grate is in the middle.
• After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, we open all the doors and windows in the bath for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the flooded foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form during drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

An iron furnace is assembled like this:

• Take the back rim from the wheel, we weld all the holes, except for the one in the middle.
• We take the next rim, cut off the convex top, insert the first rim into the second and weld. There should be no holes and cracks, the device must be airtight, after welding we beat off the slag and check the weld, if we haven’t welded it somewhere, we weld it, check it again, having beaten off the slag.

Moments of assembling a stove for a bath

Assembly of parts of the 2nd stage of the furnace

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the blower and firebox, everything else is in the bath.

Drawing of the inside of the furnace

If you did not have a dressing room, then we will build it together with a sauna stove. The corner where the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done in order to fire safety, because inside the bath is always trimmed with wood.

So, we begin to make an oven, if there is no experience in oven matters or you have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will lay down the oven for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it's time to try it, and I'll tell you how to do it.

• We lay out the base completely of brick, the second row we begin to lay out the ash pan (blower).

Ash pan, blower

After laying the oven should dry for at least 2 weeks, if it is flooded immediately, then microcracks will appear, which will violate the integrity of the furnace. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the stove dries out. It is allowed to heat with small chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if the firebox door no moisture and the walls are dry. You can drive the oven to the full for maintenance, and the oven is ready for use.

• Now let's look at the pipe, the figure shows the finished view of the pipe, which is placed on the furnace we have folded.
• At the iron stove, the heater is located right on the body itself, in our case it is on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank.

The complete oven

Note that the design itself will heavy enough, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal bath stove of an original design is ready. If there is already a finish inside - cover from welding even with roofing material, even with sheets of iron.

Attention. Do not forget, when welding indoors, for fire safety purposes, you need to have a bucket of water and a sprinkler. A spray bottle can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

• Top of the chimney (see Metal chimneys) we strengthen with two reinforcement for rigidity, welded to the pipe and fastened to one wall and to the other. For fastening to the wall, we use a corner or a plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled from both sides.
• We drill a brick with a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and fasten it to the anchor, so we got stiffness angle and stable construction.

View in full: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with a grate for stones

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath come in different forms. Consider an oven made from pipe, its components and assembly scheme. At first glance, a pipe sauna stove has the simplest possible device, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the principle of operation of the furnace, draft and chimney. In all cases, these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with built-in heater

With the independent implementation of the design and some original solutions, so that you get a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, be guided by them, and you will succeed. Do not forget that nothing is impossible for us, so we will dare, strive and surprise others, improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove built or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The stove in the photo above is an easy option as the base is almost done - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm, a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole 335 mm in length, 180 mm wide, this will be our grate, we weld rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart. Separately, we make a box of sheet iron 2-3 mm, in size:

We weld the box, clean the slag.

We weld the door to it and set aside the part for now. Let's deal with the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs, sidewalls on both sides.

• We have a pipe diameter of 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
• With the help of a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it can be easier. Attach our blank (pipe 525) to the sheet and simply circle it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you marked out a part and cut it out, then it is better to measure again and make another one than to copy from the finished one.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath with a large heater

For now, we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the oven and assemble them inside the oven itself, we will alternately apply and boil all other parts in turn.

Cut two holes at the top. One - for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut off the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To keep the structure symmetrical, use the level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, we prepare a niche for stones, cut out the details from a 5 mm iron sheet.

We weld all the details, make a square box, as shown, clean it from slag, coat the seams with plenty of kerosene and see if there are any smudges. We set aside the finished part of the furnace to the side.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, stone, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, threads taut. The rest will be done by gravity, a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal way, just like water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: drawings

The next step: we cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (it separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing rapid heat leakage into the chimney).

Partition for furnace shaft

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from above and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will find out only in the course of work. Measurement can be made using a tape measure and a level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For a note, I’ll tell you how to get by with improvised means, if there is no level and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, a plastic bottle or any transparent, but solid enough object with a base.

We mark the same distance from the bottom on the sides and put marks with a marker. Pour water according to the marks - and here level ready. We put it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

• Set the level, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, we press the level to the pipe so that it does not walk with you, and we put marks inside the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other side.
• We make a measurement label to label.
• We draw a partition on a piece of metal and cut out.
• We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of tacks on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
• We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything converges, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make notes where exactly it does not converge or interferes, pull out the partition, trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps - it's okay, it is brewed by electric welding.
• We also scald a niche for stones.

So, do-it-yourself bath metal stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, retreating from the bottom of 50 mm, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less than 1 cm. If we have a door size of 220x320 mm, then we cut out a hole of 210x310 mm. And we cut out another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Do-it-yourself metal bath stoves with a tank for heating water

If the made metal stove in the bath with your own hands does not have a direct exit from the furnace to the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if you cannot get there. If this is not done, then ash deposits and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will either have to cut through the window, or cut and weld the pipe constantly.

• First we put the sidewall with the future door, scald outside. Through the window for the firebox we weld the partition with the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, we clean everything with a grinder.
• We put the chimney in the cut hole, grab, take the level and measure the vertical from both sides not in parallel, but at an angle. To keep the chimney from being blocked. We scald everything, put an effort for the chimney below.
• Next stage: put the ash pan- blew from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
• And assembly completion- we weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney, the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

It remains to install the oven in its intended place. At the same time, the installation is carried out so that the heater is not located in the furnace, but outside, which makes it difficult to heat the stones. The stones will heat up much longer than usual, but the effect will still be. Stones for the stove are better to use maritime, they heat up faster, keep heat longer, and if they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron stove for a bath with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the blower is tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

• Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: assembly

  
  Step-by-step guide to assembling a stove for a bath with your own hands. Necessary materials and tools for the work. A detailed step-by-step description of the actions for

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

There are plenty of types of stove equipment: someone prefers a brick heater built by a professional craftsman, and someone likes a metal stove designed by their own hands.

The latter option is economical, as it can be made from improvised materials with your own hands.

Unit advantages

The following main positive points with which the metal stove for the bath is endowed:

• compactness, small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
• No need to build a special massive foundation. For such a stove, a lightweight type of base is also suitable. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
• In a metal sauna stove, it is possible to maintain a constant combustion process, which allows you to keep the temperature at a given value throughout the entire sauna procedure.
• An economical version of furnace equipment, the possibility of building a structure from existing materials.

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Despite the presence of positive aspects, a metal stove for a bath has its own minuses :

1. cools down very quickly, as there is no property of accumulation of thermal energy. In order to maintain a high temperature in the bath, it is necessary to maintain a constant combustion process.
2. low heating capacity of a large room;
3. the need to provide special protection against a fire situation, since the fire safety of a metal structure is low. It is recommended to install additional hull skin.

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

For many, such a parameter as the shape of the structure will seem insignificant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment, the convenience of using it during operation. The furnace unit happens:

The last type is the most common and easy to use. With this configuration, the furnace has corner zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many believe that in a rectangular design, the shape, the frame of the furnace, is best preserved.

The shape of the furnace also affects the uniformity of heating of both the structure itself and the heated room. With the maximum heating of one element of the equipment, the heating of the other decreases. This, in turn, ensures uniform heating of the room, a stable balance of heat flows.

Proper heating of the structure affects its mechanical stability. So, a round or cylindrical furnace is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heat, therefore, denser walls are made for it. A rectangular oven is considered to be resistant to heat, as it has cold corners.

Do-it-yourself oven construction options

It can be said that metal sauna stoves already have a long history, therefore, for such a long period, craftsmen have developed and offered various types of performance.

The simplest option is a metal stove made of an iron barrel. To do this, the bottom and lid of the barrel are cut off, resulting in a cylinder. This cylinder, up to half, is loaded with bricks placed on edge. A grate is laid on top of them. The remaining half of the barrel is 2/3 filled with stones. After that, the chimney is removed and the lid is installed on the furnace. This method of making a furnace, although simple, is inconvenient to use.

For a small bath area, you can build a compact-sized stove using sheet steel. The inner surface of this design is laid out with bricks. The firebox, its walls are laid out in half a brick, the chimney - in one quarter. This type of oven is easy to manufacture and use. To warm up the room, you will need some fuel raw materials. Comfortable room temperature will be achieved after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whichever option is chosen, you will need to prepare the following material:

• sheet steel, the thickness of which is not less than 8 mm;
• a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• rod 10 mm thick;
• grate;
• hecks and doors for the combustion chamber, heater and blower;
• water tap;
• two meters of pipe. Of these, 90 cm will go to the firebox, 60 cm to the tank, and 50 cm to the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, doors for structural elements can be made independently.

Concerning tools, then in the work we will use a grinder and a welding machine.

Option 1: stove design with a closed type of heater

In this type of structure, it is assumed closed view of the stove, therefore, in order to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

A design such as a metal stove for a do-it-yourself bath has the following steps:

• we take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut an opening in it for the blower. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
• Inside the pipe, from the side of the opening, we weld fasteners for the grate, using any metal plate with lugs for this.
• We turn to the arrangement of the firebox: we cut an opening of 25x20 cm, weld the fasteners for the heater rods. We will use rods, 1 cm in diameter, or specially sold grates for a round furnace.
• On the opposite wall of the heater, we cut a hole through which steam is supplied.
• We fill the heater with stones suitable for this type of construction. Talcochlorite, diabase have good properties, combined with a metal surface, flint, granite, mica-containing stones should be excluded.
• In the lid for the furnace, we cut a hole for the chimney pipe and install it.

This completes the manufacturing process of the furnace structure. But still, the masters offer to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, we take a piece of pipe, of large diameter, and weld in a water tap. We prepare the lid for the water tank: we take the lid of the desired size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part, we cut an opening for the chimney, and then weld it onto the tank. We will provide for the second part to be removable, so we weld hinges and a handle to it.

Option 2: stove with an open type of heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet is easy and simple to build such an assembly. His the design is a pipe divided into two compartments using a grate. The upper compartment is a firebox, while the lower one acts as an ashpit-blower. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which fuel can be placed, air supplied, and combustion products removed.

In the far, muffled end of the pipe, we weld the chimney pipe, its diameter is 100 mm.

We weld a metal box on top of the cylindrical body, which is filled with stones. The curved elbow of the chimney allows for maximum heating of the stones, as this increases the contact surface of the hot pipe with the heater.

The described version of the furnace structure is also easy to perform in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, sheets of metal, and not a pipe, will be needed for blanks.

As a rule, for such a stove, the presence of a hot water tank is assumed. In a rectangular oven ways to place the tank many, here are just a few:

• can be done on either side;
• attach on top;
• perform a water jacket on several sides;
• embed pipes for cold and hot water supply.

A convenient way to get hot water is to install a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. You can make such a water heater yourself or buy a ready-made factory one, which has a pipe of a standard size and diameter. In the latter case, the tank cuts into the chimney, its vertical part above the furnace body, and pipes are connected to the supply and intake of water. Such a tank, with sufficient volume, can serve as a water reservoir or simply be a heat exchanger connected to the main water tank.

Option 3: open type metal oven with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complex in execution, but this is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

Such a design is metal body with internal brickwork. At the same time, the requirements for the thickness of steel are reduced: you can take a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. For brickwork, you will need fireclay refractory bricks, mortar. As a solution, a special ready-made dry mix for furnace work is suitable. It is mixed according to the requirements of the instructions for use.

A do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath has the following manufacturing technology:

1. Preparing the base: We weld legs and heel pads to it. This will make the furnace structure stable.

Scheme of a metal sauna stove with an additional brick wall

• We lay out the first solid brick row on this base. For the rest of the rows, we adhere to the following parameters: near the firebox we put it in half a brick, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney channels - a quarter.
• When the blower chamber is ready, install cast iron grate , placing it between the firebox and the ash pan. To design openings for the loading window and the blower, you can use metal corners, 20 x 20 in size. It is important to monitor the evenness between ordinary seams.
• Above the combustion chamber we lay wire mesh metal grill , whose diameter is 12 mm. We will then put stones on this grate.
• When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave it on the right or left opening We will load stones into it, take them out for cleaning, and also splash water into this window during the bathing procedure for vaporization.
• flue channel it is desirable to make tortuous. This will ensure maximum heating of the entire furnace body and complete combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns up, from the back, we create an inspection window. We mount a valve in it, which allows you to keep warm for a long time after the end of the furnace process.
• The top two rows of bricks are laid solid, leaving opening for chimney pipe through which combustion products will be removed.
• After we have finished the brickwork, we give the mortar time to set and dry. After that, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal case. In our situation, this body resembles a kind of case. Corner, 20 x 20, launched at the joints, makes it possible to facilitate welding work, to make the seams airtight.
• Making a workpiece front wall , do not forget to cut openings for the ash pan and the furnace loading chamber. We install the front wall in place, weld the hinges for the doors. We make the door leafs wider by 10 mm on each side than the prepared openings - this will ensure tightness when closing. You can lay an asbestos seal around the perimeter of the door or along its entire inner surface.
• In the side wall blank, we also provide an opening for prepared in brickwork steam generation windows . For this, we install a metal door with sealing material. It is desirable to make it open down, put a cold handle for opening during the bath procedure, when there is a need for steam.
• On the lid for the oven cut out flue pipe hole , the field of which we weld the cover into place. Next, install chimney channel and boil it.
• We install a metal stove for a bath with our own hands at the chosen place and load it with stones.

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

• install a metal sauna stove with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the bath;
• the structure must be located in close proximity to the chimney;
• execution of a special foundation, a base made of refractory materials for placing the furnace;
• the wall of the room, near which there is a metal stove for a bath, should be finished with sheet refractory material.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: photo drawings

Home-made sauna stoves used in the arrangement of the bath complex make it possible to take into account the wishes and requirements for this equipment of the owner of the bath complex.

The selection of a model and the creation of one's own hands should be approached with special attention, the fact is that this structural element is one of the main ones, the normal and comfortable operation of the entire complex as a whole largely depends on it.

The stove installed in the bath has two main functions:

1. Due to the heat generated by the oven, water is heated for use during bath procedures.
2. Due to the release of energy during the combustion of fuel, the air in the room is heated before using the steam room.

The most common homemade sauna stoves are iron structures.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a home-made furnace for a metal bath, a general drawing of the device and drawings of its individual components should be developed.

General requirements for sauna stoves

If all the requirements for the installation for heating a bath room are met during the design process, the unit should turn out to be reliable and economical, and if certain design ideas are implemented, such an installation can also have an excellent appearance.

Regardless of the type of fuel used, the installation must have the following parameters:

• the unit must have a high thermal power and a wide range of adjustment of this parameter;
• the unit must be equipped with a steam generator and a heat accumulator, which are designed to change the parameters for the release of thermal energy and steam;
• the unit should not have a large number of surfaces that can be heated to temperatures above 150 0 C.

In addition to the indicated technical parameters, when creating a furnace with your own hands, the requirements for the dimensions of the combustion chamber of the unit and the degree of fire safety must be met.

Everything can be divided into 2 groups - cold and hot. Hot stoves are distinguished by the fact that they are able to heat up very quickly and heat the surrounding space. The walls of the hot stove can be heated to a temperature of 100 0 C. This group of units is used in cases where the steam room of the bath is not used regularly, but from time to time. It should be noted that this type of units has a significant drawback - using such an installation, you can easily overheat the steam room.

Furnaces belonging to the cold variety need to be heated much longer than units belonging to hot-type installations. The advantage of this type of installation for heating the bath space is that their walls do not heat up above 50 0 C. This wall temperature prevents burns when the human body comes into contact with them.

Heating of the room during the operation of this type of unit is carried out due to air circulation through certain channels. The air enters the channels of the structure cold, and passing through them, it is heated to the required temperature. The heating temperature of the surrounding air is regulated by opening and closing the air channels.

Varieties of stoves intended for heating bath complexes

Most often, classic furnace structures made of brick and metal are used for heating.

Brick structures have a significant drawback - they have a significant weight, which requires, when using such a structure, the manufacture of a foundation base for it. For the construction of such furnace equipment, refractory and red fired bricks are used, as well as a mortar made on the basis of clay and sand as a binder. A cement-based mortar is not used when creating such a structure, since under the influence of high temperatures the cement mortar cracks and the structure loses its integrity. When creating a brick structure, the bricks should be laid in a certain order.

Metal furnaces are made of steel and cast iron. These designs are more compact compared to brick units. Metal aggregates have a higher heat transfer rate.

The most modern modification of the bath heating unit has two combustion chambers in its design. The first chamber of such a device is intended for burning solid fuel, and the second chamber is intended for afterburning the combustible gas formed in the first chamber. The efficiency of such an improved model, compared with the classical one, is increased by 20%.

The main disadvantage of such metal structures is the presence of a large surface area, which is heated to a high temperature. This design feature can cause burns. The installation for heating the bath room, which has two combustion chambers, is called gas. Before designing a home-made gas stove for a bath, you should study in detail the design of this device, and, if necessary, consult with a specialist with experience in creating such installations. The fact is that mistakes made in the process of creating the unit can provoke the occurrence of emergency situations with unpredictable consequences.

Pros and cons of homemade sauna stoves

A home-made metal sauna stove can be made independently if the master has metal handling skills, as well as with the appropriate working tools and fixtures. The design of a home-made metal stove for a bath can be made of pipes and sheet metal.

Homemade metal stoves for baths have a number of advantages, which contributes to the popularization of this type of heating devices for bath rooms. Almost everyone knows that to create a homemade brick oven for a bath, you will need knowledge in the field of creating various types of brick heating structures and building experience. It is almost impossible for an ordinary person who does not have this amount of knowledge to make a brick oven on his own.

For this reason, most often when choosing a model of a stove for a bath complex in the case of self-manufacturing of the structure, the owners of the baths opt for structures made of metal.

The advantage of the design of the furnace, mounted from metal, is the relative simplicity of designing the heating unit. In addition, the use of such a heating unit during the operation of the bath complex can significantly save on the costs required for the purchase of fuel. This advantage is due to the fact that the metal stove warms up faster and begins to quickly heat the surrounding air in the steam room of the bath complex. A big disadvantage of a metal stove is its high fire hazard.

The most popular homemade sauna stove is constructed from a horizontal pipe.

To create such a heating unit, the master does not need special skills.

Tools and materials required in the manufacture of metal heating structures

If necessary, prepare the necessary materials and tools before carrying out work.

For work you will need to prepare:

• a metal pipe with a length of 1500 mm, a diameter of 500 mm, and the wall thickness of the pipe must be at least 10 mm;
• metal hooks - 10 pieces;
• metal loops - 10 pieces;
• stones for steam generation;
• metal rods.

In the process of working on creating a device, the following working tools will be required:

• welder;
• manual electric drill;
• device for cutting metal;
• building level.

Parts for the designed furnace are made from the prepared pipe. For this purpose, the pipe must be cut into 2 pieces. The pieces must be 900 and 600 mm long. A long section of the pipe will serve as a furnace and a pallet for placing stones for steam generation. A shorter piece of pipe is used as the basis for creating a tank designed to heat water.

After the pipe has been cut into 2 parts, you can proceed directly to the process of manufacturing the stove structure.

The process of making a stove for a bath from a pipe

At the first stage, it is required to cut a hole with a width of 200 mm and a height of 50 mm in the lower part of a large piece of pipe. This hole will act as a blower. A round plate of metal having a thickness of 12 mm is welded above it.

At the next stage of design, the installation of the grate is carried out. For this purpose, another hole is cut in the pipe body. In order to fix the grate of the combustion chamber, 4 ears are welded into the pipe. The door for the combustion chamber is made from the remains of the pipe. The prepared door is fixed on the unit body with hinges and hooks. To fix the door on the furnace body in the closed position, a latch is fixed to the door body.

After completion of all installation operations, you should proceed to the manufacture of the heater. For this purpose, a short piece of prepared pipe is required. The heater is welded over the combustion chamber in such a way that the distance from the top to the bottom of the structure is at least 100 mm.

The rear wall of the pipe is welded, and a door with a side size of about 300 mm is made in the body. The prepared heater is filled with stones up to half. In order to prevent the stones from crumbling, a grate of metal rods is constructed above the firebox.

After the completion of the assembly work, you can begin to carry out installation work to install the finished structure in the premises of the bath complex.

Carrying out installation work on the installation of the furnace structure

Upon completion of the installation work on the installation of the furnace, the tank for heating water is mounted.

To mount the tank, a round steel billet with a metal thickness of at least 9 mm is welded to the bottom of the short pipe. A hole with a diameter of 150 mm is made in the welded circle. A steel semicircle is mounted on the top of the tank. In this structural element, a hole is made for the chimney pipe. The open half of the upper part of the tank is closed with a semicircular lid. The lid is fixed on a semicircular blank, which was previously welded to the water tank. After completion of the installation work on the installation and assembly of the tank, a chimney pipe is passed through the prepared holes. A hole is made in the lower part of the tank for fixing a faucet designed to drain hot water.

In the process of carrying out installation work to install the structure in the premises of the bath complex, you should remember a few rules that must be followed during the work:

• the doors of the combustion chamber should be located opposite the front door;
• installation of a furnace made of metal requires the creation of a foundation for the structure; when creating a foundation base for the structure, it is recommended to use refractory bricks;

• experts recommend that when installing a metal heating unit, cover it with bricks, this will increase fire safety.

In order to be completely sure of the correct assembly and installation of the unit, it is recommended to invite a specialist in the field of furnace heating for verification.

After completion of all design and installation work, a trial run of the furnace should be carried out. The test of the device should be carried out in the bath complex in the absence of unauthorized people.

There are a lot of metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in welding metal, you can make the furnace yourself, according to your size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

• 1 Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference
• 2 Homemade stoves for the Russian bath
  • 2.1 Kamenka: what size and where
  • 2.2 Drawings of homemade bath metal stoves
• 3 How to make a sauna stove
  • 3.1 Drawings and diagrams

Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference

There is a significant difference between the modes of soaring in a bath and a sauna. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get burned, and the broom will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept within 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity "catch up" more - 50-60%.

One of the options for a welded sauna stove

To meet these different challenges, different approaches to building a furnace are required. The sauna requires the largest area of ​​contact between the body of the furnace and the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But in the sauna you don’t need much - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. Just can't take it anymore.

In the Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and it has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring in the body, lightness and a surge of strength are felt. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is at least 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are “packed” inside the furnace - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

Here the heater is located inside and a tank is attached on top

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

What else should be kept in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to recycle. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and it is difficult to be nearby. The problem is solved in two ways:

Another thing to talk about is seams. In home-made metal furnaces (in factory ones, in principle, too), burnout often begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is circumvented with the help of bent structures. In the upper part, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a stove for a bath with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that the bath is insulated normally). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but on condition that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that stones of different breeds have different densities, and, consequently, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - look at the design of the furnace.

Kamenka can be of different shapes and sizes

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. As a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about where in the firebox it is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the roof of the furnace will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and that water must somehow get there. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can easily reach the farthest edge with your hand. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Usually, a tube or a system of tubes is inserted, which diverge over the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

Metal stove for a bath with a closed heater

To activate combustion, an additional air duct is connected, laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffeners (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend when heated.

The following scheme of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to the top of the firebox. These are the so-called furnaces with afterburning gases. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. In the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace, air is supplied from under the grates with the help of air ducts. This simple, it seems, the device solves two problems at once. Firstly, it cools the back wall, reducing the likelihood of it burning through. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry firewood), much less fuel is required. Many long-burning stoves are built on this principle, but it has recently been used in sauna stoves.

Furnace with secondary air supply

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. Here the dimensions are not indicated, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of various elements.

Volumetric model of a home-made stove-heater made of metal

In this case, the volume of the furnace is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it can rest against the ceiling beam - you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So think about the location of the pipe.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is “heavy”, and they take the tank to the washing compartment, and heat the water in it by building a heat exchanger into the furnace and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next scheme is a furnace in a metal bath with a water tank.

Drawing of a stove for a bath with a water tank

The design is competent - with the help of a “spark arrester”, the path of flue gases is longer, it stays in the furnace longer, it heats the walls better. If you do not want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank, which is located at the back of the oven. The chimney is moved back, and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the exit from the tank will not be large for sure.

Variant of a small stove with a large tank

Interestingly arranged stone. It is not very large, but for small and medium steam rooms its volume is enough. It closes with a lid, which, on the one hand, is not very convenient: closing the lid after water has been supplied to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

Furnace sections and dimensions

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly “catch up” with the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow over the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

Approximately the same function is performed by the casing-convector. This is the casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the furnace. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, at the same time cooling the walls. Then it rises up, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

How the convection hood works

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in the sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow over the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a firebox of a normal size, in which large logs are placed. In the upper part, above the upper part of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Schemes of metal sauna stoves

Installing a tank for heating water in the steam room of a sauna is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and it's easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can make a lid on it and such an oven can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry steaming, with an open one - to get more steam.

Kamenka inside the building

The choice and construction of a stove for a bath must be taken with particular attention, since the stove is its most important element. In the bath, it performs two very important functions: it heats the water for procedures and heats the air in the room. The stove can be with a closed or open heater.

A stove with a closed heater retains heat longer, but it takes more time and firewood to warm up the steam room. If you plan to use the sauna infrequently, it is recommended to give preference to a closed heater. With an open heater, the steam room heats up quickly, but when watering the stones with water, it cools faster. The stones located in the steam room must be solid and rounded.

If you want to build a homemade sauna stove, consider the recommendations and advice of stove builders. Before building a stove-heater, you need to familiarize yourself with existing projects and choose the right design for yourself. Then a good waterproofing of the foundation is carried out, which must be poured 5 centimeters wider than the stove. Fire grates are installed in the firebox for sifting ash into the ash pan. With the help of an ash pan, the combustion of fuel is improved, which makes it possible to heat the steam room faster. The distance between the firebox and the ash pan must be at least 30 centimeters. When removing the chimney, be sure to install a damper in the chimney to control the intensity of draft.

Requirements for sauna stoves

• Under the oven should be separate foundation.
• The oven must be hermetic without any gaps or cracks.
• Requires wood trim, located near the stove, treat with an antiseptic, but to protect against spontaneous combustion, it is still better to sheathe it with steel sheets.
• The metal elements of the oven must not come into contact with elements made of flammable materials (plastic or wood lining, etc.).
• The ash pan should be at a distance above 15 cm from the floor.
• The distance between the ceiling and the top edge of the oven must not be less than half a metre.
• Recommended near the stove sew up the floor metal sheet.
• The stove is installed near the door of the dressing room.

Homemade ovens for a bath must meet the following conditions:

1. The oven must provide temperature in the upper part of the steam room not lower than 80 ° C, and 45 ° C in the lower zone.
2. The stones on the stove should be good warm up so that enough steam is produced when watering them.
3. If the stove works with solid fuel, then it must burn evenly.
4. The chimney and furnace chamber must be sealed.
5. The oven must have high efficiency.

Options for a homemade stove for a bath

Metal homemade oven from sheet metal has a lower firebox and a tank for heating water. Part of the oven is lined with bricks. The lower firebox and wall are also brick. The stove works in this way: water flows through the side door, from which steam is released.

oven from sheet metal works as in the previous version: water and steam enter through the side door. The inner walls are brick. For the construction of such a stove for a bath, sheets of iron with a thickness of more than 5 mm may be suitable.

brick oven for a bath is one of the most popular options. It looks like this: the firebox is lined with refractory bricks, an ash pan is located below the firebox, and there is a cast-iron or steel grate, which is designed for laying stones. The brick oven has a chimney and doors. Hot water is supplied by a coil. The furnace is erected on the foundation. For this design, a solution made of sand and clay is used. It is unacceptable to use mortar for laying bricks, in which cement is present, which is not resistant to high temperatures. The brick oven is fireproof. The laying of such a stove is a rather laborious and complex process.

Stove for a bath from a metal pipe

The most interesting option is a metal sauna stove made using a metal pipe. You can build it in a short time without problems. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the location of the future stove.

To build a homemade stove from a pipe, you will need:

• Tools- grinder, welding machine, electrodes diameter 3.4.
• Materials- a metal pipe with a diameter of 50 cm, a wall thickness of 1 cm and a length of one and a half meters, sheet iron 3-10 mm, reinforcement or rod 8-10 mm.
• Building materials- sand and crushed stone 0.1 cubic meters, cement 150 kg, brick 300 - 400 pieces, clay.

Below is a functional diagram of a metal furnace from a pipe for a bath.

1) blew; 2) firebox; 3) heater; 4) door; 5) crane; 6) hot water tank; 7) chimney pipe; 8) a platform for a brick pipe; 9) brick pipe; 10) gate; 11) upper part of the tank; 12) hole for the chimney; 13) cover with a handle; 14) pipe hole; 15) tank bottom; 16) a lattice of reinforcing bars; 17) steel plate; 18) grate; 19) ears; 20) steel tire coupling.

In order to install the stove in the bath, you must pour foundation under it We knock down the formwork with a size of 1 × 1 m, a height of 30 cm. We lay reinforcement in squares of 20 × 20 cm in one layer, tying each other with wire. So that the reinforcement does not lie on the ground, we drive in four pieces of reinforcement along the edges and tie the grate to them by weight. Next, pour the foundation. To the foundation did not crack, when it dries, we put wet rags on it, which we wet for two weeks. Open all windows and doors for ventilation.

Step-by-step technology for making a furnace from a pipe

I step. Preparation of parts from which the furnace will be made

We take a pipe length one and a half meters, a diameter of fifty centimeters, a pipe wall thickness of at least one centimeter and cut out the details necessary for the furnace. We cut the pipe into two parts: one 60 centimeters, the second 90 centimeters. From the pipe segment, which is larger, we will install firebox and stove, and use a smaller segment for a hot water tank.

II step. Building an oven

At the bottom of a larger piece of pipe, which is intended for the heater, a hole is cut out for the blower. It is 20 cm wide and 6 cm high. Mounted above the cutout by welding round steel plate, the thickness of which is not less than 1.2 centimeters. Then a part of the metal for the grate in the blower is cut out separately. Four ears are welded by welding to secure it.

Next, cut out a niche where the firebox will be located. From the rest of the pipe we make firebox door measuring 25 by 30 centimeters and hang it on loops. A latch is attached to the door. From a piece of pipe with a height of 30 or 35 centimeters we make a heater. We weld it over the firebox and make another door, the size of which is 25 by 30 centimeters.

We fill the heater with rounded stones ( half of its volume). We install a steel coupling in the upper part of the stove, which is needed to fix the hot water tank.

III step. Making a hot water tank

For the manufacture of the tank we use piece of smaller pipe(60 cm). We weld the bottom to the end part of the pipe section, the thickness of which should be eight millimeters. A hole with a diameter of 15 centimeters must be cut in the bottom to install a chimney. It should be shifted to the rear wall of the tank.

We weld the chimney tightly to the bottom of the tank so that avoid water leakage into the furnace. From above, the tank is closed with a metal lid, in which there must be holes for the chimney and for water. To the chimney, 5 centimeters above the tank, you need to weld a steel square platform with sides of 30 centimeters, to establish a brick pipe, which is led out through the ceiling and then through the roof.

We equip the brick pipe with a valve. Opposite the water hole below, we weld a valve with a faucet to the tank.

IV step. We install the finished stove in the room

After assembling a metal stove from a pipe, it can be installed indoors. When installing the oven, follow technological rules:

1. Necessary strictly observe the size of the site on which the oven will be installed. The platform should have a square shape with a side of 70 centimeters and a height of 15 - 20 centimeters. The stove should be installed at a distance of 20 centimeters from the wall.
2. The furnace of this design is installed on concrete foundation, laid out of refractory bricks, 20 - 30 centimeters high with the help of clay mortar.
3. In places where the outlet of the chimney passes, it is necessary to make thickening brickwork- about 12 centimeters. Ceilings (wooden) are covered with cardboard, asbestos or felt moistened with a clay solution. The gap of the pipe from the roof to the ceiling must be plastered and then whitewashed. The height of the outer laying of a brick pipe should be more than 50 centimeters from the roof level.
4. The doors of the firebox should be directed towards the exit, and the door of the heater - to the corner of the bath diagonally.
5. Shelves in the steam room should be located against the wall where the stove stands. It is necessary to calculate their height so that sitting with your head does not touch the ceiling. The heated air rises, and because of this, the ceiling is very hot. On the ceiling in the steam room, you should not install lamps for the safety of being in it.
6. If the bath is wooden, then a metal stove for fire safety should be cover with bricks. The height of the brick lining is 120 centimeters, the length is 80 centimeters on both sides of the stove. Now you can build a wall.
7. The test of the furnace must be carried out without those present in the bath.

To build a homemade stove for a bath from a metal pipe, use our instructions to help you make your dream come true. Good luck!

Hello! I'll tell you how I built a bath in the country. Built one. Sometimes only (when installing heavy or long parts) he asked someone to help (when installing a log house and rafters).

Well, I'll start in order. To begin with, we determine on the site where the bath will be. We mark the place of the future foundation and start digging.

Digging under the foundation.

Since our site is located on quicksand, the foundation was made more powerful. At the collection point of black scrap metal, I bought pieces of rebar. He welded a frame out of them and laid them on bricks so that the metal did not touch the ground.

Next, we make the formwork so that the foundation protrudes above the surface. For formwork, I used chipboard from old cabinets. I set it up with smooth edges and set it to the level around the entire perimeter. This is necessary so that later the brick does not display the level. We lay a sewer pipe for draining water.

Next, pour concrete. You can bring ready-made concrete with a mixer (this is if there are ways to drive the mixer). In my case, there was no possibility of a mixer entrance. I ordered 1 Kamaz OPGS (Enriched Sand-Gravel Mix). They dumped it on the site (by the way, my plot is small, only 4 acres). And the hardest part began. From one end of the site to the bath on a construction wheelbarrow I carry 3 buckets of OPGS + 1 bucket of cement. I add water on the spot and mix it in the same wheelbarrow with a shovel, pour the finished mixture and level it. Since I did all this alone, it took me 2 days. At that time, I thought it was pointless to buy a concrete mixer, but then it turned out to be better if I bought it, because then I filled in the paths and other little things. In short, if there is such an idea, buy a stirrer, it costs 7-8 thousand. For one and for the stove we fill in the foundation.

We are waiting for the poured foundation to grab and get stronger and begin to lay out the red brick base. Between the foundation and the brick, I put a layer of waterproofing on it 2 rows of bricks. When laying bricks, he left 50 mm sewer pipes for ventilation and one polypropylene pipe for supplying cold water.

We bring a log house and lay out all the logs in order so that later we don’t have to look for the right ones.

Already on the finished brick base, I put 2 layers of TechnoNIKOL waterproofing material and began to assemble the frame. I sanded each log with a grinder with a sanding nozzle. Jute was used to seal the joints. Waiting, he nailed it with a stapler and, when installing the log, threw it in order to crush the jute. The frame is assembled. I immediately treated the exterior with an impregnation against bugs and weathering.

The frame is assembled.

Rafters and lathing.

Gables.

Dressing room.

Entrance door.

Ceiling board 40mm. I glued it with foil and sheathed it with aspen clapboard, insulated it with ecowool on top.

Shelf frame.

The stove is fenced off.

The floors in the dressing room were varnished for yachts.

Well, here's what happened in the end.

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